Gardenology.org - Plant Encyclopedia and Gardening wiki - User contributions [en]

Rafflesia

2009-12-12T12:12:34Z

125.99.85.99: Created page with '{{SPlantbox |Min ht metric=cm |Temp Metric=°F |image=Upload.png |image_width=240 }} {{Inc| Rafflesia (named for Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles). Rafflesiaceae. Fleshy parasites, w…'

{{SPlantbox
|Min ht metric=cm
|Temp Metric=°F
|image=Upload.png
|image_width=240
}}
{{Inc|
Rafflesia (named for Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles). Rafflesiaceae.
Fleshy parasites, with a solitary large sallow fl. with a cadaverous
odor rising from a superficial rhizome, leafless; fls. dioecious;
perianth fleshy, the tube hemispherical at the base, solid in the male
fls. and adnate to the ovary in the female fls., broad-campanulate
above the ovary, limb 5-parted, the segms. imbricated in 1 row; ovary
inferior, with numerous ovules. About 5 species, Malaya. R. Arnoldii,
R. Br. Fls. flesh-colored, 3 ft. across, mottled with a thick fleshy
rim or corona lining the upper part of the tube. In the male fls. there
is a thick fleshy column within the corona and adherent to the
perianth-tube and having at the top a wide flat plate, the overhanging
margin of which is revolute and on which is placed a ring of sessile
anthers. The female fls. are similar, but lack the anthers and possess
an ovary adherent to the base of the perianth-tube and having a single
cell. Sumatra. G. 7:547. J.H. III. 54:373.
}}

Describe the plant here...

==Cultivation==


===Propagation===


===Pests and diseases===


==Species==


==Gallery==
{{photo-sources}}

<gallery>
Image:Upload.png| photo 1
Image:Upload.png| photo 2
Image:Upload.png| photo 3
</gallery>

==References==
*[[Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture]], by L. H. Bailey, MacMillan Co., 1963




==External links==
*{{wplink}}

{{stub}}
__NOTOC__

Raffia

2009-12-12T12:09:33Z

125.99.85.99: Created page with '{{SPlantbox |Min ht metric=cm |Temp Metric=°F |image=Upload.png |image_width=240 }} {{Inc| Raffia is the Malagasy name of a palm which furnishes a staple article of commerce cal…'

{{SPlantbox
|Min ht metric=cm
|Temp Metric=°F
|image=Upload.png
|image_width=240
}}
{{Inc|
Raffia is the Malagasy name of a palm which furnishes a staple article of commerce called raffia fiber. It is indigenous to Madagascar, where it grows without cultivation or attention of any kind. One palm leaf, or frond, produces eighty to one hundred long green
divisions 2 to 5 feet in length, like the leaves of the sugar-cane, but of a dark lustrous green color and thicker and stiffer. The under part of this green leaf is of a pale greenish yellow color, and from that side the inner skin is peeled off in the same manner as the skin on the outside of a pea pod, except that it peels off straight to the tip without breaking. It is then of the palest green, and after being dried in the sun assumes a light straw-color. This is the raffia fiber of commerce.

Raffia fiber is extensively used by the natives for making cloths called silk lambas and rebannas, which bring fancy prices in Europe and America, where it is used in the manufacture of various kinds of hats, and the like. A large trade is also had in raffia fiber in Europe for use in the manufacture of fancy baskets, but in America, while raffia fiber has been used to a limited extent in the manufacture of hats, its principal use is for tying vines, flowers, asparagus and celery bunches and for grafting. It is soft as silk and not affected by moisture or change in temperature so as to risk cutting or wounding the most delicate tissues, and it does not break or ravel when folded or knotted. These qualities bring it into general use in Europe, especially in the vineyards of France, where it is extensively used, and consequently maintains its price. It is virtually inexhaustible in Madagascar, the supply being limited only by the scarcity of labor. For export, the fiber is collected in large skeins, twisted or plaited, and then packed in compressed bales of about 100 kilograms (220 pounds) each. About 20,000 bales are exported annually.
Chas. W. Jacob & Allison.
}}

Describe the plant here...

==Cultivation==


===Propagation===


===Pests and diseases===


==Species==


==Gallery==
{{photo-sources}}

<gallery>
Image:Upload.png| photo 1
Image:Upload.png| photo 2
Image:Upload.png| photo 3
</gallery>

==References==
*[[Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture]], by L. H. Bailey, MacMillan Co., 1963




==External links==
*{{wplink}}

{{stub}}
__NOTOC__

Radish

2009-12-12T12:04:23Z

125.99.85.99:

{{SPlantbox
|Min ht metric=cm
|Temp Metric=°F
|image=Upload.png
|image_width=240
}}
{{Inc|
Radish (Latin, radix, a root). A name applied to certain forms or species of Raphanus (of the family Cruciferae), particularly to the kinds that produce thickened edible roots; these roots are eaten raw, except some persons cook the large summer and winter kinds. See Raphanus.

The radish is variable in size, shape, color, and consistency of root and in season of maturity. Varieties may be classified as spring, summer, and winter radishes; or as globular, half-long, and long radishes; or as red, white, gray, and black radishes. Figs. 3331-3333 show some of the forms.

The origin and nativity of the radish are questions of dispute. For geographical reasons, it is supposed that the radish is wild in temperate Asia, probably in the oriental part, although truly indigenous radishes are doubtfully known. Not infrequently the radish runs wild about gardens, and in that case the root soon deteriorates into a small slender woody and more or less fibrous member. It has been thought by some that the radish is only a modified form of the wild charlock, or Raphanus Raphanistrum. In fact, experiments were made on the charlock by Carriere, who was able in a few years to produce edible radishes from the wild plant (cf. Cyclo. Amer. Hort. IV: 1487). While these investigations seem to be conclusive that the radish can be produced from the charlock, they nevertheless do not prove that such was the actual origin of the garden radish. DeCandolle, whilst accepting Carriere's experiments, was unable to understand how the radishes of India, China, and Japan could have originated from the charlock, since that plant is unknown in those countries and the radish has been grown there for centuries. It is possible that the radish was carried eastward from western Asia and Europe, but such has not been the general course of the migration of plants. It is possible that the radishes of the Orient are a different species from those in Europe, although they are generally regarded as the same species. Recent experiments in France (Yvonne Trouard-Riolle, "Recherches morphologiques et biologiques sur les radis cultives," Nancy, 1914) indicate that the cultivated radish has not been derived from R. Raphanistrum by cultivation, but that R. sativus is specifically distinct although little known as a wild plant. It is supposed that the Japanese radish is derived from one aboriginal form of R. sativus which is native of China and Japan, and that the European radishes have come from another aboriginal form.

The summer and winter radishes are not popular in this country unless among those of recent foreign origin. The winter radishes in particular are little grown. These are late-maturing kinds, requiring more of the season for growth, and of such large size and firm flesh that they keep well, as turnips are kept. The summer and winter radishes require no special treatment, except that plans must be made to allow them a longer period. In eastern Asia are singular kinds of radish that are little known here. In North America, the small spring radishes comprise practically the range of general cultivation.

The rat-tail radish, Fig. 3346, is grown for its much-developed soft pods, which may be used as are radishes and in the making of pickles. It is rarely grown in American gardens, although it is well worth raising as a curiosity. It is annual, and its cultivation presents no difficulties. There is also a fleshy podded radish of parts of India, with the edible pods short and soft.

The radish is one of the most popular of garden vegetables. It is of quick growth, and the product is secured at the time of the year when fresh vegetables are in demand. In order that radishes may be of the best quality, they should have made a rapid growth. The soil should be rich, light and loose,—one that drains readily and does not bake with heavy rains. Radishes fit for the table may be had in three to six weeks from the sowing, depending on the variety and the "quickness" of the soil. They are often grown as a catch-crop with other vegetables. They may be sown in the rows with early beets, peas or other crops, and they are usually mature enough for use before they seriously interfere with the main crop. Sometimes seeds of radishes are sown in the rows of slow-germinating plants, as carrots and parsnips, in order that the seedlings may mark the row and thereby facilitate tillage. Many of the radishes, in such cases, may be allowed to remain long enough to produce an edible tuber.

Aside from the root-maggot, the radish is relatively free from insects and diseases. When the root-maggot appears in any place, it is usually best to discontinue the growing of radishes in that area for two or three years, until the insects have been starved out. The maggots may be killed by an injection of bisulfide of carbon into the earth about the plants; but this is usually more expense than the product is worth. Carbolic acid emulsion may also be used. Early radishes may be grown in hotbeds or cold-frames with the greatest ease, and in these places they are usually less subject to the attacks of the cabbage maggot, since the crop is matured in advance of the maggot season.

Radishes are readily forced in the winter months. It is necessary that the house be light. The soil should be a sandy loam, free from silt and clay. It is best to grow radishes in solid beds rather than on benches. They thrive best in a low temperature. The temperature during the day should not exceed 65° to 75° in the shade, and at night it may drop to 45° to 50°. If the temperature is too high, and particularly if the beds are given bottom heat, the plants tend to run to top rather than to root. The seed is usually sown in rows from 5 to 8 inches apart, and they are thinned in the row until they stand 2 or 3 inches apart. In order that the crop shall be uniform and mature simultaneously, it is advisable either to sift the seed or to transplant the young radishes. Galloway has found by experiment that radish seeds 2/25 inch in diameter are too small to give a satisfactory and uniform crop. He therefore advises that seeds be run through sieves with a mesh of that diameter in order to separate the small specimens. In a certain experiment, he secured from two pounds of commercial seed nineteen and one-half ounces of large

seed, ten and two-third ounces small seed, the remainder being bits of gravel, sticks and other impurities. The chief value of this sorting lies in the greater uniformity of the crop. Almost every plant can then be relied upon to reach maturity. It is the practice in some houses to transplant the young radishes. The seed may be sown in flats or in beds at one end of the house, and when the radishes have made two or three leaves, they are transplanted into permanent quarters. In this operation, all the small and weak plants are discarded and the crop is therefore more uniform. It is supposed by some growers, also, that the breaking of the tap-root in the process of transplanting tends to make the tuber shorter and thicker and to induce an earlier maturity. By means of transplanting, the use of the house may be economized. Whilst one crop is growing, another may be started in a seed-bed or in flats. As soon as the first crop is removed, the ground may be thoroughly raked, fertilized, and the new plants put in. In some cases the new crop is transplanted between the rows of the old crop a few days before the latter is removed; but, unless the soil is rich and in good condition, it is better to wait until the crop is removed in order that the land may be thoroughly fitted for the new plants. Radishes are often forced in connection with lettuce, and they thrive well in the same temperature. The varieties most used for forcing, as also for the early spring crop in the garden, are the globular or half-long kinds. With these varieties, a depth of soil of 4 inches is sufficient for good results. L. H. B.

Another view of the cultivation of the radish.

There are few garden roots in which fresh crispness is more essential to palatability than in the radish, or which can be more easily held in prime condition for so long after gathering, and usually one is able to secure roots of excellent quality from the market. On the other hand, an abundant family supply can be grown on a small area and the radishes can be quickly gathered and fitted for the table, so that every country garden or even town yard may be easily made to furnish a family supply. Radishes are cool-weather plants, and although when young or quickly grown they may be killed by severe or long-continued freezing, they will endure a moderate frost without injury; the plants do not thrive and the roots become tough and unpalatable if grown in a temperature above 60°. Radishes have been in cultivation since earliest historical times and there has been developed a wide range of varietal forms. In some varieties the plants develop very rapidly and are well suited for raising under glass or for growing in gardens in the spring and early summer, while other sorts are of slower growth and come to greatest perfection when planted so that they will escape the summer heat and develop during the cooler weather of autumn.

Forcing varieties.

A group of varieties of radishes has been developed in which the roots reach usable size very quickly,—in some stocks by the time the cotyledons are full sized and before more than three or four leaves have developed,—so that under favorable conditions a culture may be planted, grown to maturity, marketed and the beds made ready for a second planting within thirty or forty days. In this group the roots are in prime condition but a short time, quickly becoming pithy and unpalatable, particularly if subjected for even a few hours to temperatures above 60°F., and uniformity as to maturity is an important quality. Often in a lot of seed of uniform varietal character, the seed varies greatly in size of grains and it has been found that plants from the larger seed mature some days more quickly than those from the smaller grains, so that the sifting out and rejection of the smaller seed is often desirable.

There are a number of varietal forms suited for forcing, ranging in shape from those distinctly flat, through flattened, thickened or long turnips-shaped, and globular, to tankard or half-long, and in color from white through various shades of red and yellow to dark purple. In some varieties the color is of uniform shade over the whole root, in others more or less of the lower part is white, while in other strains the generally white surface is marked with dots and splashes of red. In the forcing of radishes, uniformity as to rapidity of maturing and in attractiveness of color are the most important qualities. The success of any culture is very dependent upon the varietal character of the seed used, and seedsmen are continually offering under new names stocks that are in reality but superior strains of the older varieties.

Spring radishes.

These are slower in coming into usable size than the forcing sorts, but the plants are larger, hardier both to cold and heat, and the roots are larger and continue in prime edible condition much longer. In garden cultures, the first sowing should be made as soon as the ground can be worked and ordinarily it will furnish usable roots in twenty-five to thirty days and remain in edible condition from five to twenty days. To secure a succession, two to five sowings should be made at intervals of ten to twenty days, but it is useless to attempt to grow radishes in the hot weather of midsummer, as they would not only make a poor growth but the roots would be tough, strong-flavored and unpalatable.

Radishes require for their best, or even for a good development, a rich friable soil which has been made so by heavy manuring and judicious culture in previous years rather than by recent working. The use of fresh stable-manure is very likely to result in ill-shaped coarsegrained strong-flavored roots, and the uniformity and symmetry of the root is very dependent upon the fertility and friability of the soil. The seed should lie some ten to twenty grains to the foot, in drills about 2 inches deep, and covered with about an inch of soil. It has been found advantageous, just before the starting plants begin to push through the soil, to cover the row with a liberal sprinkling of either tobacco dust, or of land plaster and kerosene, as a repellant to black beetle and other insects.

Seedsmen offer a wide range of varietal forms, ranging from the quick-maturing red or white Olive-Shaped, the Half-Long or the Long Scarlet, to the later-maturing longer-seasoned Chartier, or White Vienna, and the still larger later Strasburg or Stuttgart, which might be classed as summer varieties, although when planted so as to mature in the heat of midsummer they are likely to be strong-flavored and unpalatable.

Fall and winter radishes.

There are varieties which develop to usable size more slowly than the preceding and which remain crisp and tender much longer. They should not be planted until midsummer or later so that they may come to maturity in the cooler weather of autumn. These require more room for their best development than the spring varieties but are even more responsive to fertile well-prepared soil and frequent cultivation. They may be used as they reach desirable size and will stand considerable frost without injury, but should be pulled and stored much as one would carrots or parsnips so as to avoid severe freezing. The Long Black Spanish, the White Russian, the Chinese Scarlet Winter and Deep Scarlet Panier, the latter one of the most symmetrical and beautifully colored roots in cultivation, belong to this class which is well worthy of more general cultivation.

Chinese and Japanese radishes.

These are possibly the oldest of cultivated kinds. The large many-leaved plants are 2 feet or more across and form immense roots which not infrequently weigh forty to fifty pounds. The flesh is less agreeable in texture and flavor than that of the sorts more commonly grown, and though they have been loudly exploited by seedsmen, they have never come into very general cultivation in this country, except by the Chinese and Japanese who use them as a cooked vegetable more than as a salad.

As grown there, carefully bred stock-seed is sown thickly in narrow rows and when the most mature roots reach usable size, the crop is pulled, all immature or off-character roots are rejected, and those which are of satisfactory form, size, and color are promptly reset about 10 inches apart in rows about 3 feet apart and soon start into fresh growth and mature a crop of seed.

In this country, seed of both the forcing and larger-rooted sorts are commonly planted ten to twenty to the yard in drills, 3 feet apart, and when the plants are mature enough to indicate their varietal quality, the plantings are carefully gone over, the inferior and superfluous roots pulled and destroyed, and superior ones to furnish the desired quantity of stock-seed are pulled and set in a block by themselves, where there will be little danger of the flowers being fertilized by pollen from other plants.

The yield and quality of seed is very dependent upon uniformly favorable weather conditions inducing a quick, even growth, fertilization of the flowers by insects, and freedom from storms or exceptionally high temperatures. A hive or two of bees in the field will often materially increase the yield of seed. When the later and the most immature pods begin to ripen, the plants may be cut and laid in windrows or piles not over 3 to 4 feet deep on the threshing-floors and allowed to remain from ten to fifty days (depending upon weather conditions), until the stems are fully cured and dry. The seed may then be threshed out either with flails or machine and sacked, but must be watched, and if necessary, winnowed out, to prevent heating. In some localities it is a better practice, particularly with the later sorts, to leave the harvested plants under shelter until midwinter or early spring before threshing. Again, in case of some of the later harder-fleshed sorts, better yields are secured by not planting until autumn, and before severe weather, pulling, topping, and storing the small roots until spring, much as is done with seed-crops of beets or turnips. W. W. Tracy.

}}

{{Taxobox
| color = lightgreen
| name = Radish
| image = Radieschen.jpg
| image_width = 100px
| image_caption = Red radish
| regnum = [[Plant]]ae
| divisio = [[Flowering plant|Magnoliophyta]]
| classis = [[Dicotyledon|Magnoliopsida]]
| ordo = [[Brassicales]]
| familia = [[Brassicaceae]]
| genus = ''[[Raphanus]]''
| species = '''''R. sativus'''''
| binomial = ''Raphanus sativus''
| binomial_authority = [[Carolus Linnaeus|L.]]
}}

The '''radish''' (''Raphanus sativus'') is an [[Eating|edible]] [[root vegetable]] of the [[Brassicaceae]] family that was domesticated in [[Europe]] in pre-[[Roman Empire|Roman]] times. They are grown and consumed throughout the world, and in addition to their use as a food, radishes have uses as an [[Alternative medicine|alternative treatment]] for a variety of medial conditions, and the seeds can be used as a [[biofuel]]. Radishes have numerous varieties, varying in size, color and duration of required cultivation time.

==Cultivation==
Summer radishes mature rapidly, with many varieties germinating in 3-7 days, and reaching maturity in three to four weeks.<ref name="faust1996">Faust, Joan Lee. ([[1996]]-[[03-03]].) [http://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpage.html?res=9C05E0DB1E39F930A35750C0A960958260 "Hail the Speedy Radish, in All Its Forms."] ''The New York Times'', via nytimes.com archives. Retrieved on [[2007]]-[[09-27]].</ref><ref name="peterson1999">Peterson, Cass. ([[1999]]-[[05-02]].) [http://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpage.html?res=9C0CEFDE103DF931A35756C0A96F958260 "Radishes: Easy to Sprout, Hard to Grow Right."] ''The New York Times'', via nytimes.com archives. Retrieved on [[2007]]-[[09-27]].</ref> A common garden crop in the U.S., the fast harvest cycle makes them a popular choice for children's gardens.<ref name="faust1996" /> Harvesting periods can be extended through repeated plantings, spaced a week or two apart.<ref name="beattie1938" />

Radishes grow best in full sun and fertile, acidic to neutral soil.{{fact|date=September 2007}} They are in season from April to as late as October in the northern hemisphere.{{fact|date=September 2007}} As with other root crops, tilling the soil helps the roots grow.<ref name="beattie1938">Beattie, J. H. and W. R. Beattie. (March 1938.) [http://digital.library.unt.edu/permalink/meta-dc-1562:1 "Production of Radishes."] U.S. Department of Agriculture, leaflet no. 57, via University of North Texas Government Documents A to Z Digitization Project website. Retrieved on [[2007]]-[[09-27]].</ref> Most soil types will work, though sandy loams are particularly good for winter and spring crops, while soils that form a hard crust can impair growth.<ref name="beattie1938" /> The depth at which seeds are planted affects the size of the root, from 1 cm deep recommended for small radishes to 4 cm for large radishes.<ref name="peterson1999" />

== Varieties ==
[[Image:November Radish.jpg|thumb|Variety of November harvested radishes]]
Broadly speaking, radishes can be categorized into four main types (summer, fall, winter, and spring) and a variety of shapes, colours, and sizes, such as black or multi-coloured radishes, with round or elongated roots that can grow longer than a [[parsnip]].

=== Spring or summer radishes ===
Sometimes referred to as European radishes, or as spring radishes if they're typically planted in cooler weather, summer radishes are generally small and have a relatively short 3-4 week cultivation time.{{Fact|date=September 2007}}

* Cherry Belle is a bright red-skinned round variety with a white interior.<ref name="faust1996" /> It is familiar in North American supermarkets.

* Champion is round and red-skinned like the Cherry Belle, but with slightly larger roots, up to about 5 cm, and a milder flavor.<ref name="faust1996" />

* Red King has a mild flavor, with good resistance to club foot, a problem that can arise from poor drainage.<ref name="faust1996" />

* Snow Belle is an all-white variety of radish, also round like the Cherry Belle.<ref name="faust1996" />

* White Icicle or just Icicle is a white carrot-shaped variety, around 10-12 cm long, dating back to the 16th century. It slices easily, and is has better than average resistance to pithiness.<ref name="faust1996" /><ref name="peterson1999" />

* French Breakfast is an elongated red-skinned radish with a white splash at the root end. It is typically slightly milder than other summer varieties, but is among the quickest to turn pithy.<ref name="peterson1999" />

* Plum Purple a purple-[[fuchsia]] radish that tends to stay crisp longer than the average radish.<ref name="peterson1999" />

* Gala and Roodbol are two varieties popular in the Netherlands in a breakfast dish, thinly sliced on buttered bread.<ref name="faust1996" />

* Easter Egg is not an actual variety, but a mix of varieties with different skin colors,<ref name="peterson1999" /> typically including white, pink, red, and purple radishes. Sold in markets or seed packets under the name, the seed mixes can extend harvesting duration from a single planting, as different varieties may mature at different times.<ref name="peterson1999" />

=== Winter varieties ===
[[Image:Bunch of radishes.jpg|thumb|A bunch of radishes]]
Various winter varieties can actually be grown throughout the growing season, from early spring to fall, but take their name from their ability to be stored during the non-growing winter months. Sizes are generally than the summer varieties, and cultivation often takes six to eight weeks.{{Fact|date=September 2007}}

Black Spanish or Black Spanish Round are occur in both round and elongated forms, and is sometimes simply called the black radish or known by the French ''Gros Noir d'Hiver.'' It dates in Europe to 1548,<ref>Aiton, William Townsend. (1812.) [http://books.google.com/books?id=y4QCAAAAYAAJ&pg=PA129&dq=radish+black.spanish+date:1500-1835&as_brr=0 "Hortus Kewensis; Or, A Catalogue of the Plants Cultivated in the Royal Botanic Garden at Kew, Second Edition, Vol. IV"] Longman, Hurst, Rees, Orme, and Brown: London. Page 129. Retrieved on [[2007]]-[[09-28]].</ref> and was a common garden variety in England and France the early 19th century.<ref>Lindley, George. (1831.) [http://books.google.com/books?id=DJqCT_QapToC&pg=PA570&dq=Noir+Gros+Rond+d%E2%80%99Hiver+date:1500-1840&as_brr=0#PPR3,M1 "A Guide to the Orchard and Kitchen Garden: Or, an Account of the Most Valuable Fruit and Vegetables Cultivated in Great Britain."] Longman, Rees, Orme, Brown, and Green: London. Retrieved on [[2007]]-[[09-28]].</ref> It has a rough black skin with hot-flavored white flesh, is round or irregularly pear shaped,<ref>McIntosh, Charles. (1828.) [http://books.google.com/books?id=zZ46AAAAMAAJ&pg=PA288&dq=radish+black.spanish+date:1500-1835&as_brr=0 "The Practical Gardener, and Modern Horticulturist."] Thomas Kelly: London. Page 288.</ref> and grows to around 10cm in diameter.

[[Daikon]] refers to a wide variety of winter radishes from east Asia. While the Japanese name daikon has been adopted in English, it is also sometimes called the Japanese radish, Chinese radish, or Oriental radish.<ref name="amher2004">(2004.) [http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/daikon "Daikon."] ''The American Heritage Dictionary of the English Language, Fourth Edition'', Houghton Mifflin Company, via dictionary.com. Retrieved on [[2007]]-[[09-28]].</ref> Daikon commonly have elongated white roots, although many varieties of daikon exist. One well known variety is April Cross, with smooth white roots.<ref name="faust1996" /><ref name="peterson1999" /> The New York Times describes Masato Red and Masato Green varieties as extremely long, well suited for fall planting and winter storage.<ref name="faust1996" /> The [[Sakurajima]] daikon is a hot flavored variety which is typically grown to around 10 kg when harvested, but which has grown as heavy as 30 kg when left in the ground.<ref name="faust1996" /><ref>([[2002]]-[[02-10]].) [http://www.highbeam.com/doc/1P1-50139993.html "29 kg radish wins contest."] ''Kyodo World News Service'', via highbeam.com (fee for full access.) Retrieved on [[2007]]-[[09-28]].</ref>

=== Seed pod varieties ===

The seeds of radishes grow in pods, following flowering that happens when left to grow past their normal harvesting period. The seeds are edible, and are sometimes used as a crunchy, spicy addition to salads.<ref name="peterson1999" /> Some varieties are grown specifically for their seeds or seed pods, rather than their roots. The Rat-tailed radish, an old European variety, has long, thin, curly pods. In the 17th century, the pods were often pickled and served with meat.<ref name="peterson1999" /> The München Bier variety supplies spicy seeds that are sometimes served raw as an accompaniment to beer in Germany.

== Notes ==
{{reflist}}

== External links ==
*http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Radish
* [http://www.plantnames.unimelb.edu.au/Sorting/Raphanus.html#sativus Multilingual taxonomic information from the University of Melbourne]
* [http://digital.library.unt.edu/permalink/meta-dc-1562:1 ''Production of radishes''] hosted by the [http://digital.library.unt.edu/browse/department/govdocs/ UNT Government Documents Department]

Radicula

2009-12-12T11:45:12Z

125.99.85.99: Created page with '{{SPlantbox |Min ht metric=cm |Temp Metric=°F |image=Upload.png |image_width=240 }} {{Inc| Radicula (little radish or root). Syn., Roripa, Nasturtium. Cruciferae. Herbs, not cu…'

{{SPlantbox
|Min ht metric=cm
|Temp Metric=°F
|image=Upload.png
|image_width=240
}}
{{Inc|
Radicula (little radish or root). Syn., Roripa, Nasturtium. Cruciferae.
Herbs, not cultivated except water-cress, horse-radish, and one or two
others.

Plants mostly small, perennial, biennial, and annual, with small white
or yellow fls. mostly in racemes: lvs. (or at least the lowermost)
usually pinnate or pinnatifid, commonly glabrous: fr. a silicle or
short silique, globular to cylindrical, with strongly convex nerveless
valves; seeds usually many, small and marginless, in most species in a
double row in each locule, the cotyledons accumbent.—Species more than
50, widely spread in eastern and western hemispheres, inhabiting low
grounds, swamps, and pools or streams, mostly weedy in character. These
plants formerly appeared under the name Nasturtium, which, however,
dates only from 1812 whereas Radicula dates from 1756. These plants
probably should bear the name Roipa, which see. The nasturtiums of
gardens are very different plants, members of the genus Tropaeolum.
}}

Describe the plant here...

==Cultivation==


===Propagation===


===Pests and diseases===


==Species==


==Gallery==
{{photo-sources}}

<gallery>
Image:Upload.png| photo 1
Image:Upload.png| photo 2
Image:Upload.png| photo 3
</gallery>

==References==
*[[Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture]], by L. H. Bailey, MacMillan Co., 1963




==External links==
*{{wplink}}

{{stub}}
__NOTOC__

Radermachia sinica

2009-12-12T11:41:31Z

125.99.85.99: Created page with '{{SPlantbox |Min ht metric=cm |Temp Metric=°F |image=Upload.png |image_width=240 }} {{Inc| Radermachia sinica, Hemsl. (Stereospermum sinicum, Hance). Evergreen tree: lvs. bipin…'

{{SPlantbox
|Min ht metric=cm
|Temp Metric=°F
|image=Upload.png
|image_width=240
}}
{{Inc|

Radermachia sinica, Hemsl. (Stereospermum sinicum, Hance). Evergreen tree: lvs. bipinnate; pinnae 8, each with about 7 stalked, ovate-lanceolate entire lfts. obtusely acuminate, glabrous, about 2 in. long: panicle large, terminal; calyx campanulate, with 5 short triangular teeth; corolla pale sulfur-yellow, with funnelform tube about 3 in. long and spreading roundish lobes about 1 in. long with crisped margin: caps. subterete, 16 in. long and 3/4in. thick. S. E. China. Alfred Rehder.
}}

Describe the plant here...

==Cultivation==


===Propagation===


===Pests and diseases===


==Species==


==Gallery==
{{photo-sources}}

<gallery>
Image:Upload.png| photo 1
Image:Upload.png| photo 2
Image:Upload.png| photo 3
</gallery>

==References==
*[[Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture]], by L. H. Bailey, MacMillan Co., 1963




==External links==
*{{wplink}}

{{stub}}
__NOTOC__

Radermachia pentandra

2009-12-12T11:35:28Z

125.99.85.99: Created page with '{{SPlantbox |Min ht metric=cm |Temp Metric=°F |image=Upload.png |image_width=240 }} {{Inc| Radermachia pentandra, Hemsl. (Orbxylum flavum, Rehd.). Evergreen tree, to 20 ft., gla…'

{{SPlantbox
|Min ht metric=cm
|Temp Metric=°F
|image=Upload.png
|image_width=240
}}
{{Inc|
Radermachia pentandra, Hemsl. (Orbxylum flavum, Rehd.). Evergreen tree, to 20 ft., glabrous: lvs. bipinnate, with the stout petiole 2-3 ft. long; lfts. oblong to oblong- lanceolate, entire, 3-7 in. long: panicle about 1 ft. long; calyx with 5 short teeth, splitting; corolla yellow; tube 2 in. long; limb spreading, about 3 in. across; stamens 5: caps. linear-cylindric, to 3 ft. long. Spring. S.W.China. H.I. 2728. S.T.S. 1:92.—Handsome tree with bold foliage and showy yellow fls. exhaling a heavy rather disagreeable odor; intro. by the Arnold Arboretum, and flowered in the greenhouse in 1903.
}}

Describe the plant here...

==Cultivation==


===Propagation===


===Pests and diseases===


==Species==


==Gallery==
{{photo-sources}}

<gallery>
Image:Upload.png| photo 1
Image:Upload.png| photo 2
Image:Upload.png| photo 3
</gallery>

==References==
*[[Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture]], by L. H. Bailey, MacMillan Co., 1963




==External links==
*{{wplink}}

{{stub}}
__NOTOC__

Radermachia

2009-12-12T11:32:09Z

125.99.85.99: Created page with '{{SPlantbox |Min ht metric=cm |Temp Metric=°F |image=Upload.png |image_width=240 }} {{Inc| Radermachia (after J. C. M. Radermacher, 1757-83, a Dutch resident of Java, published…'

{{SPlantbox
|Min ht metric=cm
|Temp Metric=°F
|image=Upload.png
|image_width=240
}}
{{Inc|

Radermachia (after J. C. M. Radermacher, 1757-83, a Dutch resident of Java, published a list of Javanese plants). Also spelled Radermachera. Bignoniaceae. Ornamental trees.

Plants with large opposite, pinnate or bipinnate lvs. and large fls. in terminal panicles: calyx campanulate, truncate or dentate; corolla campanulate, with 4 or 5 included stamens: caps. linear, loculicidal; septum thick, spongy with the seeds in shallow impressions.— Only two species seem to be in cult.; they can be grown in subtropical regions only, and are prop. by seeds, also by air-layering and by cuttings.—Species 8, in S. E. Asia.

R. sinica seems to revel in the light sandy soil of the Florida gardens. Its abundant, large, fern-like, crimped bipinnate foliage and its luxuriant symmetrical growth combine to make it an object of great beauty. It grows to a height of 10 to 12 feet in one season, and if not cut down by a severe freeze it attains a height of 20 feet in two years, provided the soil is made rich by a good fertilizer. Planted out in a conservatory in the North it soon reaches stately dimensions. It is easily raised from cuttings placed in sand. (H. Nehrling.)
}}

Describe the plant here...

==Cultivation==


===Propagation===


===Pests and diseases===


==Species==


==Gallery==
{{photo-sources}}

<gallery>
Image:Upload.png| photo 1
Image:Upload.png| photo 2
Image:Upload.png| photo 3
</gallery>

==References==
*[[Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture]], by L. H. Bailey, MacMillan Co., 1963




==External links==
*{{wplink}}

{{stub}}
__NOTOC__

Quisqualis indica

2009-12-12T11:28:06Z

125.99.85.99: Created page with '{{SPlantbox |Min ht metric=cm |Temp Metric=°F |image=Upload.png |image_width=240 }} {{Inc| Quisqualis indica, Linn. (Celastrus nutans, Hort. Reasoner, not Roxbg.). Rangoon Creep…'

{{SPlantbox
|Min ht metric=cm
|Temp Metric=°F
|image=Upload.png
|image_width=240
}}
{{Inc|
Quisqualis indica, Linn. (Celastrus nutans, Hort. Reasoner, not Roxbg.). Rangoon Creeper. Lvs. 4 in. long, nearly glabrous: calyx-tube extremely long (2-3 in.), slender, green; calyx-teeth triangular, acute, not acuminate; petals rose or scarlet: fr. with very sharp angles but hardly winged. Malaya. Widely cult. in tropics. B.M. 2033. B.R. 492. R.H. 1868:50 (as Q. pubescens).
F. Tracy Hubbard.
}}

Describe the plant here...

==Cultivation==


===Propagation===


===Pests and diseases===


==Species==


==Gallery==
{{photo-sources}}

<gallery>
Image:Upload.png| photo 1
Image:Upload.png| photo 2
Image:Upload.png| photo 3
</gallery>

==References==
*[[Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture]], by L. H. Bailey, MacMillan Co., 1963




==External links==
*{{wplink}}

{{stub}}
__NOTOC__

Quisqualis

2009-12-12T11:24:47Z

125.99.85.99: Created page with '{{SPlantbox |Min ht metric=cm |Temp Metric=°F |image=Upload.png |image_width=240 }} {{Inc| Quisqualis (Latin, who, what kind). Combretaceae. Rambling subscandent large shrubs, i…'

{{SPlantbox
|Min ht metric=cm
|Temp Metric=°F
|image=Upload.png
|image_width=240
}}
{{Inc|
Quisqualis (Latin, who, what kind). Combretaceae. Rambling subscandent large shrubs, including the rangoon creeper which is hardy in the extreme south of the United States and is also sometimes grown in the warmhouse.

Leaves opposite, oblong or obovate, acuminate, entire: fls. in short spikes, axillary and terminal, white or red; calyx-tube prolonged, long and slender above the ovary, deciduous; petals 5; stamens 10, short; ovary 1-celled: fr. dry, coriaceous, 5-angled or 5-winged,
1-seeded.—About 4 species, chiefly Indian, 1 in Trop. and S. Afr. The name quisqualis means literally who? what? and is said to have been given by Rumphius in astonishment at the plant's behavior, for it is said to grow erect and shrub-like to a height of 3 ft., when it throws out from the base a new growth that climbs up the neighboring trees, after which the original shrub perishes. Many other interesting statements about this plant are made in B.M. 2033.

Quisqualis indica is cultivated in northern hothouses. For best results it should be planted in beds of soil composed of fibrous loam, peat, and sand. The flowers appear from June to September, and last well when cut. After flowering the plant should be cut back severely and water applied less frequently until the wood is ripened. New growth starts the following spring. If the plant is kept in a very hot and humid atmosphere, it makes a rampant growth. It is remarkably free from insect pests and fungous diseases. Propagation is by softwood cuttings inserted in sand with bottom heat. (Emil Mische.)
}}

Describe the plant here...

==Cultivation==


===Propagation===


===Pests and diseases===


==Species==


==Gallery==
{{photo-sources}}

<gallery>
Image:Upload.png| photo 1
Image:Upload.png| photo 2
Image:Upload.png| photo 3
</gallery>

==References==
*[[Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture]], by L. H. Bailey, MacMillan Co., 1963




==External links==
*{{wplink}}

{{stub}}
__NOTOC__

Quince

2009-12-12T11:15:17Z

125.99.85.99:

{{SPlantbox
|Min ht metric=cm
|Temp Metric=°F
|image=Upload.png
|image_width=240
}}
{{Inc|
Quince. The fruit and tree of one of the pome class, known as Cydonia
oblonga (or sometimes as Pyrus Cydonia).
Few fruits play a more important part in ancient history than the
quince, and yet there is hardly a fruit with equal or even poorer merit
that in recent years has not received more attention. Scarcely a book
is written on the quince and even practical mention of its merits, its
culture, or its value is seldom made in the experiment station
literature of America.

Perhaps this is due to the fact that the fruit can hardly be considered
in the dessert class except when cooked; and yet it is said that in
Persia and the near East it grows to such perfection that some
varieties are esteemed when eaten raw.

The place of the quince in America seems to be a secondary one, to make
marmalade, to preserve, to make jellies, and for flavoring purposes.
The place of the tree among other fruits seems to be secondary also. It
is seen most frequently in back yards and fence-corners and often in
the lowest and dampest fruit land on the farm. In a few cases, when its
merits are recognized, it is given drier richer ground and
cultivatedwith judicious care. Naturally, the quince is adapted to deep
rich warm soils. The fertility of the soil should be strongly
emphasized, as the root, instead of penetrating deeply, spreads out
extensively and consequently is near the surface. It is slow-growing on
any soil but responds very quickly to good fertility. On cold damp
soils the fruit is inclined to be woody and it may possibly be for this
reason that the quince is not more popular for preserving purposes. On
the richer drier soils the quality is much improved. The idea is very
prevalent that the tree is adapted to low ground. The lower grounds,
generally speaking, are richer, but in this respect only may the trees
be said to be adapted to it. Excessive moisture is harmful to the
quince as to other fruits. Cultivation must be judicious. In many
respects it should resemble that given the dwarf pear. The roots being
near the surface, cultivation and especially plowing must be shallow.
It is common practice to ridge well up to the trees not only to protect
the roots but to permit easy drainage; also the tree being very subject to fire
blight, it does not permit of thorough cultivation with the consequent
succulent wood-growth. Moderate cultivation in spring and early summer
followed at once by a cover-crop or a good sod-mulch is considered good
practice.

The quince tree is small, twisted and dwarf in its habit. It seldom
reaches a height of more than 12 or 15 feet, although some grow higher.
The larger number are much lower. Being dwarf in its habit, the quince
tree can be planted as close as 13 to 15 feet in an orchard, the latter
distance being the more popular. Planted too close, it is forced
upright, like other trees. The fruiting habit is distinct and peculiar,
resembling no other orchard fruit, but is similar to the hickory and
the walnut. The blossoms are produced on the current season's growth
(Fig. 3323). A short growth starts from the terminal winter bud and on
the end of this the flower and fruit are produced (Figs. 8324, 3325).
There is no proper stem or peduncle to the fruit, but the quince sits
close or sessile on a short leafy branch. The wood-growth is continued
by an axillary bud of the previous season. This peculiar habit of
growth gives the tree its crooked bunchy appearance. (Fig. 3326.)

Pruning should receive careful attention, otherwise the quince tree
will soon become too thick and also more or less unshapely. When set in
orchard, the young tree may be pruned to a short whip, as shown in Fig.
3327. The trunk is kept very short; some growers prefer to start the
top as low as shown in Fig. 3328, but the former and probably still the
prevailing practice is to grow a trunk like those seen in Fig. 3329.
These longer trunks are convenient if one is to use the curculio
catcher, as shown in Fig. 3330. The pruning consists in keeping the top
open and well spread (Fig. 3328). To cause the top to spread and to
keep it low and within bounds, more or less heading-in may be
practised; but as the fruit-shoots spring from the ends of the
branches, clipping-in of all the tree would remove practically all the
fruit.

The questions of cultivation and fertilizers are largely inter-related.
Thorough tillage makes available a large amount of plant-food, and
consequently less fertilizer is necessary. However, too thorough
cultivation and consequent succulent growth increases blight. The
question of fertilizers comes down to one of producing moderate growth
of a hardy resistant nature. This means that in cultivated orchards,
heavy applications of nitrates or nitrogenous manures must be withheld.
Phosphate and potash on the other hand can be applied in quantity,
especially on the lighter soils. The cover-crops will probably supply
the necessary nitrogen. If growth is very slow, a light application of
farmyard manure may be made. Lime and land-plaster can also be applied
in quantity.

The fruit is sold in eleven-quart baskets, bushels, and barrels, and
ranges from 75 cents to $1.25 a bushel, depending on the market and the
demand. In Ontario the demand is very limited and there are scarcely
any orchards on a commercial basis. In the eastern states and
especially New York State, there are some orchards of considerable size
(Fig. 3329). The fruit, though apparently hard and long-keeping, is
comparatively easily bruised or marked and must be handled with care.

The trees begin to bear a few fruits the second and third years after
planting but can not generally be said to bear a profitable crop until
ten to twelve years of age. The fruit is very subject to limb-rub and
disease, and must be carefully grown to look well. The ordinary
practice is to spray the tree with dormant-strength lime-sulfur at the
same time that the apples and peaches are sprayed and then again just
after the fruit is nicely set with bordeaux mixture, to each forty
gallons of which has been added three pounds of lead arsenate.
Summer-strength lime-sulfur with the above amount of poison would give
the same results for the summer spray. Judicious pruning also tends to
thin the fruit and improve the quality.
Seedling stocks— Quince of Angers—are largely imported from Europe for
roots. These roots are used also for dwarfing the pear. The trees are
grown much the same as other nursery trees. The seedlings are set in
the nursery row in early sprmg and budded in August. By a year from the
following spring, that is two years from the setting of the seedling,
the trees are ready for the planter. The quince can also be propagated
by cuttings, mound-layering and root-grafting, but the above-named
method is the common one in practice.

Trees received from the nursery should be given the same care as other
nursery trees. Heel them in carefully if the soil is not ready for
planting. Plant about 2 inches deeper than the bud. Head at 15 to 20
inches. If budded trees are used and planted the proper depth, there is
little or no danger from suckering.

The most damaging diseases are fire-blight, affecting the wood and
especially the new growth; leaf-blight, affecting branches, fruit and
foliage; and black-rot and bitter-rot, affecting the fruit. For the
fire-blight, the worst disease, there is no direct remedy, but trees
should not be allowed to over-grow, wild hawthorns and wild apples and
pears near the plantation should be destroyed, and all affected parts
should be removed promptly.

The most serious insect attacking the quince is the quince curculio
(Conotrachelus crataegi). This may be controlled by spraying with six
to eight pounds of lead arsenate to one hundred gallons of water, or in
the place of water bordeaux mixture at the proper season. This must be
done when the beetles first make their appearance and again about ten
days later. This insect is found on the quince in Ontario. The same
insects as attack the apple generally attack the quince and the
treatments are similar. Sometimes the jarring method is employed, as
shown in Fig. 3330, as for the plum, the beetles being knocked off by
hitting the tree with a padded mallet.

Orange (Fig. 3325) and Champion are the leading varieties of quince.
The former is the variety most largely grown in Ontario and previous to
1870 was the only variety. It is large in size, skin golden yellow with
greenish or russet color around stem. The flesh is tender and the
flavor good. The season is late September and October. Its origin was
southern Europe. The latter variety, of American origin, is large,
pear-shaped and on the tree has a distinctly greenish yellow color. The
tree is larger and taller-growing than Orange. The fruit is very late
ripening. Other commonly grown varieties are Bentley, Fuller, Rea,
Meech, and Van Deman.
F. M. Clement.
}}

{{Taxobox
| color = lightgreen
| name = Quince
| image = Quince flowers.jpg
| image_width = 240px
| image_caption = ''Cydonia oblonga'' flowers

| regnum = [[Plant]]ae
| divisio = [[Flowering plant|Magnoliophyta]]
| classis = [[Magnoliopsida]]
| ordo = [[Rosales]]
| familia = [[Rosaceae]]
| subfamilia = [[Maloideae]]
| genus = '''''Cydonia'''''
| species = '''''C. oblonga'''''
| binomial = ''Cydonia oblonga''
| binomial_authority = [[Philip Miller|Mill.]]
}}

The '''Quince''' (''Cydonia oblonga'') is the sole member of the genus ''Cydonia'' and native to warm-temperate southwest [[Asia]] in the [[Caucasus]] region. It is a small [[deciduous]] [[tree]], growing 5-8 m tall and 4-6 m wide, related to [[apple]]s and [[pear]]s, and like them has a [[pome]] [[fruit]], which is bright golden yellow when mature, pear-shaped, 7-12 cm long and 6-9 cm broad.

The immature fruit is green, with dense grey-white pubescence which mostly (but not all) rubs off before maturity in late [[autumn]] when the fruit changes colour to yellow with hard flesh that is strongly perfumed. The [[leaf|leaves]] are alternately arranged, simple, 6-11 cm long, with an entire margin and densely pubescent with fine white hairs. The [[flower]]s, produced in spring after the leaves, are white or pink, 5 cm across, with five petals.

Quince is used as a food plant by the [[larva]]e of some [[Lepidoptera]] species including [[Brown-tail]], ''[[Bucculatricidae|Bucculatrix bechsteinella]]'', ''[[Bucculatricidae|Bucculatrix pomifoliella]]'', ''[[Coleophora|Coleophora cerasivorella]]'', ''[[Coleophora|Coleophora malivorella]]'', [[Green Pug]] and [[Winter Moth]].

Four other species previously included in the genus ''Cydonia'' are now treated in separate genera. These are the Chinese Quince ''[[Pseudocydonia|Pseudocydonia sinensis]]'', a native of China, and the three flowering quinces of eastern Asia in the genus ''[[Chaenomeles]]''. Another unrelated fruit, the [[Bael]], is sometimes called the "Bengal Quince".

==Origins==
[[Image:2005pear_and_quince.PNG|thumb|left|Pear and quince output in 2005]]
The fruit was known to the Akkadians, who called it ''supurgillu'' [http://www.premiumwanadoo.com/cuneiform.languages/dictionary/dosearch.php?searchkey=2853&language=id]; Arabic سفرجل ''safarjal'' = "quinces" (collective [[plural]]). The modern name originated in the 14th century as a plural of ''quoyn'', via [[Old French]] ''cooin'' from [[Latin]] ''cotoneum malum'' / ''cydonium malum'', ultimately from [[Classical Greek language|Greek]] ''kydonion malon'' "[[Kydonia]]n apple" (in the figurative sense, similar to ''pomodoro'' - [[Italian language|Italian]] word for [[tomato]] literally meaning "apple of gold", ''pomme de terre'' - the [[French language|French]] word for [[potato]], literally meaning "apple of the ground", and the classical "golden apple"). The quince tree is native to [[Iran]], [[Armenia]], [[Turkey]], [[Albania]], [[Macedonia (region)|Macedonia]], [[Greece]], and [[Bulgaria]], but the Greeks [[graft]]ed from a superior strain from ancient Kydonia, now [[Khania]], a port in [[Crete]], whence both the common and better-preserved genus name. The [[Lydia]]n name for the fruit was ''kodu''.

Cultivation of quince may have preceded apple culture, and many references translated to "apple", such as the fruit in ''[[Song of Solomon]]'', may have been to a quince. Among the ancient Greeks, the quince was a ritual offering at weddings, for it had come from the Levant with Aphrodite and remained sacred to her. Plutarch reports that a Greek bride would nibble a quince to perfume her kiss before entering the bridal chamber, "in order that the first greeting may not be disagreeable nor unpleasant" (''Roman Questions'' 3.65). It was a quince that [[Paris (mythology)|Paris]] awarded Aphrodite. It was for a golden quince that [[Atalanta]] paused in her race. The Romans also used quinces; the Roman cookbook of [[Apicius]] gives recipes for stewing quince with [[honey]], and even combining them, unexpectedly for us, with [[Leek (vegetable)|leek]]s. [[Pliny the Elder]] mentioned the one variety, Mulvian quince, that could be eaten raw. [[Columella]] mentioned three, one of which, the "golden apple" that may have been the paradisal fruit in the [[Hesperides|Garden of the Hesperides]], has donated its name in Italian to the tomato, ''pomodoro''. This interesting fruit can also be eaten cooked or raw. They are a good source of vitamin c.

==Cultivation and uses==
[[Image:Cydonia.jpg|thumb|left|Quince foliage and ripening fruit]]
Quince is frost hardy and requires a cold period below 7 °C to flower properly. The tree is self fertile however yield can benefit from cross fertilization. The fruit can be left on the tree to ripen further which softens the fruit to the point where it can be eaten raw in warmer climates, but should be picked before the first frosts.

Most varieties of quince are too hard, astringent and sour to eat raw unless '[[bletting|bletted]]' (softened by [[frost]]). They are used to make [[jam]], [[Jelly (fruit preserves)|jelly]] and [[quince pudding]], or they may be peeled, then roasted, baked or stewed. The fruit turns to reddish orange color once it has cooked. The very strong perfume means they can be added in small quantities to apple pies and jam to enhance the flavour. Adding a diced quince to applesauce will enhance the taste of the applesauce with the chunks of firmer tarter quince. The term "[[marmalade]]", originally meaning a quince jam, derives from the [[Portuguese language|Portuguese]] word for this fruit ''marmelo''.<ref>Wilson, C. Anne. ''The Book of Marmalade: Its Antecedents, Its History and Its Role in the World Today (Together with a Collection of Recipes for Marmalades and Marmalade Cookery)'', University of Pennsylvania Press, Philadelphia. Revised Edition 1999. ISBN 0-8122-1727-6</ref> The fruit, like so many others, can be used to make a type of [[fruit wine|wine]]. [[Image:Quince-israel.jpg|thumb|right|Quince]]

In Spain, the quince or "membrillo" as it is called, is cooked into a firm reddish paste and is eaten with [[manchego cheese]]. The sweet and floral notes of ''carne de membrillo'' (quince meat) contrast nicely with the tanginess of the cheese.<ref>[http://www.gourmetsleuth.com/quincepastemembrillo.htm Membrillo paste] from Gourmet Slueth</ref> Quince juice from organic farming is available in [[Germany]] and its pleasant taste mixes well with other fruit juices. This is where the saying "A quince for you, a quince for me, quinces we shall eat," comes from. In Lebanon, it is called "Sfarjel" and also used to make jam. In Iran quince is called (Beh)and is used raw or in stews and jam. Also seeds are used as a remedy for pneumonia and lung disease.

Elsewhere in [[Europe]], quinces are commonly grown in central and southern areas where the summers are sufficiently hot for the fruit to fully ripen. They are not grown in large amounts; typically one or two quince trees are grown in a mixed orchard with several apples and other fruit trees. [[Charlemagne]] directed that quinces be planted in well-stocked orchards. Quinces are mentioned for the first time in an English text in the later 13th century, though cultivation in [[England]] is not very successful due to inadequate summer heat to ripen the fruit fully. They were also introduced to the New World, but have become rare in [[North America]] due to their susceptibility to [[fireblight]] disease caused by the [[bacterium]] ''Erwinia amylovora''. They are still widely grown in [[Argentina]], [[Chile]] and [[Uruguay]]. Almost all of the quinces in North American specialty markets come from Argentina. A variety of quince, which is grown in the Middle East, does not require cooking and is often eaten raw.

In Malta, a jam is made from the fruit (gamm ta' l-isfargel). According to local tradition, a tea-spoon of the jam dissolved in a cup of boiling water relieves intestinal discomfort.

The quince, used as a [[rootstock]] for [[grafting|grafted]] plants, has the property of dwarfing the growth of [[pear]]s, of forcing them to produce more precociously, and relatively more fruit-bearing branches, instead of vegetative growth, and of accelerating the maturity of the fruit.

In parts of Afghanistan, the quince seeds are collected and boiled and then ingested to combat pneumonia.

In [[Chile]] the quince or "membrillo" as it is called, is cooked into a reddish jello-like block (dulce membrillo), or firm reddish paste. It is then eaten in sandwiches. Boiled quince is also popular in desserts such as the [[Murta con membrillo]] that combines [[Ugni molinae]] with quince.

In Bosnia the quince is made into brandy

==Literary associations==
* The film ''[[El Sol del Membrillo]]'' (Quince Tree of the Sun; Dream of Light) directed by [[Víctor Erice]] in 1992 is a documentary about a painter, Antonio López García, who spends September through December painting a quince tree in his garden.
* In an episode ''[[The Simpsons]]'', "Who Shot Mr. Burns, Part 1", [[Mr. Burns]] and [[Waylon Smithers]] end up eating an entire box of chocolates in one sitting, leaving behind and discarding only one piece: the sour quince log.
* In [[Edward Lear]]'s famous poem "[[The Owl and the Pussycat]]" the protagonists "dined on [[Mincemeat|mince]] and slices of quince, Which they ate with a [[runcible spoon]]".
* In the movie ''[[White Men Can't Jump]]'', [[Rosie Perez]]'s character Gloria Clemente was on ''[[Jeopardy!]]'', and "quince" was the response to "Adam and Eve dined on this forbidden fruit".
* In the play ''[[Cataplana]]'', an aging antagonist named Ari attacks his partner, Linda, over her claim that he had a pear tree on his property—when in fact it was a quince.
* [[Paul Muldoon]]'s poem, "Lunch with [[Pancho Villa]]" contains the line, "The quince tree I forgot to mention,"
* In the book, ''Ten Thousand Sorrows'', by Elizabeth Kim, on page 5 line 7 Quince tea is drunk alongside a meal.
* In the musical ''[[Pippin (musical)|Pippin]]'', Catherine makes Pippin a quince [[pudding]] [[flambé]]. It is this extension of domesticity that is the final impetus for Pippin to leave her.
* In [[Plutarch]]'s [[Parallel_Lives|''Lives'']], [[Solon]] is said to have decreed that "bride and bridegroom shall be shut into a chamber, and eat a quince together."<ref>Plutarch ''Solon'' 20 [http://en.wikisource.org/wiki/Lives/Solon#20]</ref>

==References==
<references/>

==External links==
*[http://www.hort.cornell.edu/extension/commercial/fruit/mfruit/quince.html Cornell article]
*[http://www.uga.edu/fruit/quince.htm University of Georgia article]
*[http://www.bartleby.com/87/r1813.html Quince Marmalade Recipe]
*[http://www.vegparadise.com/highestperch51.html Quince History]
*[http://www.agroforestry.co.uk/ansample.html Quince information including nutrition]
*[http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v397/SidJamesMonroe/Quince-Smyrna.jpg Photo of a Quince Monker]

{{Commons|Cydonia oblonga}}

[[Category:Accessory fruit]]
[[Category:Flora of Armenia]]
[[Category:Maloideae]]

Quillaja saponaria

2009-12-12T10:45:26Z

125.99.85.99: Created page with '{{SPlantbox |Min ht metric=cm |Temp Metric=°F |image=Upload.png |image_width=240 }} {{Inc| Quillaja saponaria, Molina. Soap-bark Tree. A large tree: lvs. 1 1/4-2 in. long, ovate…'

{{SPlantbox
|Min ht metric=cm
|Temp Metric=°F
|image=Upload.png
|image_width=240
}}
{{Inc|
Quillaja saponaria, Molina. Soap-bark Tree. A large tree: lvs. 1 1/4-2 in. long, ovate, shining, dentate, short-petioled: fls. white, about 2/3in. across, usually terminal, solitary, or in clusters of 3-5 on the same peduncle. Chile. B.M. 7568.—Cult. in S. Calif.
F. Tracy Hubbard.
}}

Describe the plant here...

==Cultivation==


===Propagation===


===Pests and diseases===


==Species==


==Gallery==
{{photo-sources}}

<gallery>
Image:Upload.png| photo 1
Image:Upload.png| photo 2
Image:Upload.png| photo 3
</gallery>

==References==
*[[Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture]], by L. H. Bailey, MacMillan Co., 1963




==External links==
*{{wplink}}

{{stub}}
__NOTOC__

Quillaja

2009-12-12T10:41:54Z

125.99.85.99: Created page with '{{SPlantbox |Min ht metric=cm |Temp Metric=°F |image=Upload.png |image_width=240 }} {{Inc| Quillaja (from Quillai, the Chilean name, which comes from quillean, to wash: the bark…'

{{SPlantbox
|Min ht metric=cm
|Temp Metric=°F
|image=Upload.png
|image_width=240
}}
{{Inc|
Quillaja (from Quillai, the Chilean name, which comes from quillean, to wash: the bark of the tree contains saponin, an alkaline compound, which makes it useful as soap). Rosaceae. Glabrous evergreen trees, whose bark is sometimes saponaceous, occasionally grown in the greenhouse and hardy outdoors in the southern United States.

Leaves sparse, petioled, simple, thick-coriaceous, rather entire; stipules small, deciduous: peduncles axillary and terminal, 3-5-fld.: fls. polygamous-dioecious, rather large, tomentose, the lateral male, the central fertile; calyx leathery, persistent, lobes 5, broadly ovate, valvate; petals 5, small, sessile, spatulate; disk thick, fleshy, 5-lobed; stamens 10; carpels 5: follicles 5, oblong, obtuse, leathery, cohering at their base, many-seeded.—About 3 or 4 species, natives of S. Brazil, Chile, and Peru.
}}

Describe the plant here...

==Cultivation==


===Propagation===


===Pests and diseases===


==Species==


==Gallery==
{{photo-sources}}

<gallery>
Image:Upload.png| photo 1
Image:Upload.png| photo 2
Image:Upload.png| photo 3
</gallery>

==References==
*[[Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture]], by L. H. Bailey, MacMillan Co., 1963




==External links==
*{{wplink}}

{{stub}}
__NOTOC__

Malus tschonoskii

2009-12-11T11:20:05Z

125.99.85.99: Created page with '{{SPlantbox |Min ht metric=cm |Temp Metric=°F |image=Upload.png |image_width=240 }} {{Inc| Pyrus tschonoskii, Maxim. (Malus Tschonoskii, Schneid.). Fig. 3294. Tree, 30-40 ft. …'

{{SPlantbox
|Min ht metric=cm
|Temp Metric=°F
|image=Upload.png
|image_width=240
}}
{{Inc|
Pyrus tschonoskii, Maxim. (Malus Tschonoskii, Schneid.). Fig. 3294.
Tree, 30-40 ft. with erect and open habit: lvs. ovate- acuminate,
coarsely serrate, with sharp teeth, shining and pilose above although
tomentose when young, somewhat tomentose beneath : fls. 2-5 together,
white tinged rose, on whitish hairy pedicels about 1/2in.- long;
calyx-tube whitish hairy, the lobes or sepals ovate-acute, spreading in
fl.; petals about 1/2in. long.: fr. obovoid, about 1 in. diam.;
calyx-lobes persistent, erect or nearly so, white-tomentose, 1in. or
less diam., yellow with a rosy cheek. Japan. B.M. 8179. G.F. 7:55
(reduced in Fig. 3294).

}}

Describe the plant here...

==Cultivation==


===Propagation===


===Pests and diseases===


==Species==


==Gallery==
{{photo-sources}}

<gallery>
Image:Upload.png| photo 1
Image:Upload.png| photo 2
Image:Upload.png| photo 3
</gallery>

==References==
*[[Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture]], by L. H. Bailey, MacMillan Co., 1963




==External links==
*{{wplink}}

{{stub}}
__NOTOC__

Pyrus micromalus

2009-12-11T11:15:40Z

125.99.85.99: Created page with '{{SPlantbox |Min ht metric=cm |Temp Metric=°F |image=Upload.png |image_width=240 }} {{Inc| Pyrus micromalus, Bailey (Malus micromalus, Makino. M. spectabilis var. micromalus, Ko…'

{{SPlantbox
|Min ht metric=cm
|Temp Metric=°F
|image=Upload.png
|image_width=240
}}
{{Inc|
Pyrus micromalus, Bailey (Malus micromalus, Makino. M. spectabilis var. micromalus, Koidz. Pyrus Kaida, Mouill. Malus microcarpa var. Kaido, Carr. M. spectabilis var. Kaido, Sieb.). Fig. 3293. Apparently a hybrid, P. spectabilis being undoubtedly one of the parents, and probably P. baccata or P. floribunda the other. From P. spectabilis it is distinguished by the narrower lvs. which are gradually narrowed at the base into a slender petiole, by tomentose pedicels and calyx, and the subglobose fr. which has a depression at base and apex, the calyx sometimes deciduous. Cult, in Japan, and said to have been intro. from China;unknown in the wild.-A useful and showy plant, bearing profusely of bright red fls., with red calices and pedicels,and holding its many little frs. well into winter or even all winter.

}}

Describe the plant here...

==Cultivation==


===Propagation===


===Pests and diseases===


==Species==


==Gallery==
{{photo-sources}}

<gallery>
Image:Upload.png| photo 1
Image:Upload.png| photo 2
Image:Upload.png| photo 3
</gallery>

==References==
*[[Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture]], by L. H. Bailey, MacMillan Co., 1963




==External links==
*{{wplink}}

{{stub}}
__NOTOC__

Malus spectabilis

2009-12-11T11:11:22Z

125.99.85.99: Created page with '{{SPlantbox |Min ht metric=cm |Temp Metric=°F |image=Upload.png |image_width=240 }} {{Inc| Pyrus Spectabilis, Ait. (Malus spectabilis, Borkh. M. sinensis, Dum.). Chinese Flower…'

{{SPlantbox
|Min ht metric=cm
|Temp Metric=°F
|image=Upload.png
|image_width=240
}}
{{Inc|
Pyrus Spectabilis, Ait. (Malus spectabilis, Borkh. M. sinensis, Dum.). Chinese Flowering Apple. Fig. 3292. Small tree, with darker - colored fls. than those of the apple (the opening fl.-buds almost coral- red), and blooming earlier, making an erect vase-like head: lvs. narrower, oval to oval-oblong, slender- stalked, nearly glabrous on both surfaces or becoming so, usually more closely serrate than those of the apple : pedicels and calyx-tube nearly or quite glabrous: fr. roundish or round- oval, without a cavity at the base, reddish yellow, sour. Probably China and Japan, although unknown wild and very little grown in those countries although well known in cult, in Eu.: the plant called by this name in Japan is probably P. Halliana or P. microma- lus. B.M. 267. L.B.C. 18:1729. Gn. 21, p. 46. Gng. 3:273. G.F. 1:272.—A very handsome early- blooming tree, of which the double-fld. and semi-double forms are most prized. P. Malus itself has been disseminated under the name of P. spectabilis. Hardy in the northern states. Var. Riversii, Booth, has very large half-double bright rose-red fls.

}}

Describe the plant here...

==Cultivation==


===Propagation===


===Pests and diseases===


==Species==


==Gallery==
{{photo-sources}}

<gallery>
Image:Upload.png| photo 1
Image:Upload.png| photo 2
Image:Upload.png| photo 3
</gallery>

==References==
*[[Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture]], by L. H. Bailey, MacMillan Co., 1963




==External links==
*{{wplink}}

{{stub}}
__NOTOC__

Pyrus theifera

2009-12-11T10:57:00Z

125.99.85.99: Created page with '{{SPlantbox |Min ht metric=cm |Temp Metric=°F |image=Upload.png |image_width=240 }} {{Inc| Pyrus theifera, Bailey (Malus theifera, Rehd.). A small tree with stiff spreading bra…'

{{SPlantbox
|Min ht metric=cm
|Temp Metric=°F
|image=Upload.png
|image_width=240
}}
{{Inc|
Pyrus theifera, Bailey (Malus theifera, Rehd.). A small tree with stiff spreading branches, hardy at Boston; resembling a cherry tree when in bloom, the fls. white or light pink (there is a rose-colored form) with purple calyx and the unfolding lvs. purplish: distinguished from P. Halliana, its nearest ally, by larger and broader ovate or ovate-oblong or elliptic-ovate sharply glandular-serrate thinner lvs., longer petioles and less slender pedicels, acute or acuminate calyx-lobes, mostly 3 styles, white or blush fls., and larger frs. China to Assam.—The fr. is globose, light greenish yellow with reddish cheek, ripening in Mass, in Oct.: fls. fragrant. Not yet grown outside botanical collections, but a handsome free-flowering species. Var. rosea, Bailey, has rose-colored fls. and is very beautiful.

}}

Describe the plant here...

==Cultivation==


===Propagation===


===Pests and diseases===


==Species==


==Gallery==
{{photo-sources}}

<gallery>
Image:Upload.png| photo 1
Image:Upload.png| photo 2
Image:Upload.png| photo 3
</gallery>

==References==
*[[Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture]], by L. H. Bailey, MacMillan Co., 1963




==External links==
*{{wplink}}

{{stub}}
__NOTOC__

Pyrus halliana

2009-12-11T10:54:47Z

125.99.85.99: Created page with '{{SPlantbox |Min ht metric=cm |Temp Metric=°F |image=Upload.png |image_width=240 }} {{Inc| Pyrus halliana, Voss (Malus Halliana, Koehne). Fig. 3289. Bush or small tree, 6-15 ft…'

{{SPlantbox
|Min ht metric=cm
|Temp Metric=°F
|image=Upload.png
|image_width=240
}}
{{Inc|
Pyrus halliana, Voss (Malus Halliana, Koehne). Fig. 3289. Bush or
small tree, 6-15 ft. tall, with a loose open crown: lvs. long-ovate,
glabrous, leathery, crenate- serrulate, the petioles short: fls.
rose-colored, more or less polygamous, hanging on slender reddish
pedicels, the calyx-lobes often more or less obtuse, the styles usually
4: fr. size of a pea or somewhat larger (1/4-1/3in. diam.), abruptly
contracted into a thickened pedicel, brownish red, ripening late in
autumn and containing very large seeds. W. China; cult, in Japan.
M.D.G. 1899:457. One of the handsomest of the flowering apples. Var.
Parkmanii, Bailey (P. Parkmanii, Hort.), is the double-fld. form: named
for Francis Parkman, the historian, in whose garden near Boston it was
first grown in this country. Malus Hartwigii, Hort., is a hybrid of
German origin, between P. Halliana and P. baccata.—P. Halliana is a
beautiful little tree which was recognized among horticulturists before
it was described by botanists. The first naming of it in Pyrus in such
a way as to gain nomencla- torial standing with botanists seems to have
been by Voss in Vilmorin's Blumengartnerei, 3d ed., 1896. Rehder
distinguishes the species as follows (in Sargent, ;'Trees and Shrubs,"
1:35, from which also Fig. 3289 is reduced): It is allied to P.
baccata, and P. pulcherrima; from the first it is distinguished by the
leathery lvs., the color of the fls., the much shorter sepals, the
purple calyx and pedicels, and the 4- or 5-celfed very late-ripening
fr.; from P. pulcherrima it is distinguished by the convolute vernation
of the glabrous lvs., the color of the larger fls., the shorter sepals,
and the glabrous purple pedicels and calyx. In foliage and fls. it much
resembles P. resembles P.spectabilis, which, however, differs by its
pubescence and the much larger fr. crowned by the persistent calyx.
From other species it differs in its polygamous fls. There is at least
1 staminate fl. in each umbel, and this is always terminal; sometimes
there are 2 or 3, but the number of staminate fls. rarely exceeds that
of the perfect ones. In the staminate fls. there is no trace of reduced
pistils. The species was intro. to American gardens about 1863 by G. R.
Hall (see p. 1578, Vol. III).

}}

Describe the plant here...

==Cultivation==


===Propagation===


===Pests and diseases===


==Species==


==Gallery==
{{photo-sources}}

<gallery>
Image:Upload.png| photo 1
Image:Upload.png| photo 2
Image:Upload.png| photo 3
</gallery>

==References==
*[[Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture]], by L. H. Bailey, MacMillan Co., 1963




==External links==
*{{wplink}}

{{stub}}
__NOTOC__

Pyrus soulardii

2009-12-11T10:44:38Z

125.99.85.99: Created page with '{{SPlantbox |Min ht metric=cm |Temp Metric=°F |image=Upload.png |image_width=240 }} {{Inc| Pyrus soulardii, Bailey (Malus Soulardii, Brit.). Soylard Crab. Figs. 3286, 3287. App…'

{{SPlantbox
|Min ht metric=cm
|Temp Metric=°F
|image=Upload.png
|image_width=240
}}
{{Inc|
Pyrus soulardii, Bailey (Malus Soulardii, Brit.). Soylard Crab.
Figs. 3286, 3287. Apparently natural hybrids of P. Malus and P.
ioensis: a small tree, with much the look of an apple tree, and woolly:
lvs. large, round-ovate to elliptic-ovate or oblong-ovate, either
rounded or tapering at the base, often very blunt or even rounded at
the top, mostly bluntly and coarsely serrate or dentate when young,
irregularly crenate- dentate at maturity, with a tendency to become
lobed, on short pubescent petioles, thick and often rugose and woolly
beneath: fls. blush, in close woolly clusters like those of the apple:
fr. often 2 in. or even more in diam., flattish lengthwise, yellow and
often with a tinted cheek, the basin shallow, flesh fairly edible. Wild
in the Mississippi Valley from Minn, to Texas, but always local and in
different forms of fr.—Named for James G. Soulard, Galena, III., who
intro. the first variety to cult. In some forms the lvs. become nearly
smooth late in the season and there is little tendency toward an
irregular notching or lobing of the margins. The tree is hardy and the
fr. keeps well and is useful for culinary purposes. A few named
varieties are grown in the upper Mississippi Valley, where trees of
great hardiness are demanded. For accounts of the pomological offshoots
of our native apples, see Bailey, "Evolution of Our Native Fruits," and
Craig & Hume, "Native Crab Apples and Their Cultivated Varieties," Iowa
Acad. Sci., 1899.
}}

Describe the plant here...

==Cultivation==


===Propagation===


===Pests and diseases===


==Species==


==Gallery==
{{photo-sources}}

<gallery>
Image:Upload.png| photo 1
Image:Upload.png| photo 2
Image:Upload.png| photo 3
</gallery>

==References==
*[[Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture]], by L. H. Bailey, MacMillan Co., 1963




==External links==
*{{wplink}}

{{stub}}
__NOTOC__

Pyrus phaeocarpa

2009-12-11T10:33:20Z

125.99.85.99: Created page with '{{SPlantbox |Min ht metric=cm |Temp Metric=°F |image=Upload.png |image_width=240 }} {{Inc| Pyrus phaeocarpa, Rehd. Fig. 3282. Medium-sized tree: lvs. elliptic-ovate or oblong-o…'

{{SPlantbox
|Min ht metric=cm
|Temp Metric=°F
|image=Upload.png
|image_width=240
}}
{{Inc|
Pyrus phaeocarpa, Rehd. Fig. 3282. Medium-sized tree: lvs.
elliptic-ovate or oblong-ovate, attenuated into long point, the base
mostly broadly cuneate, the serratures at first more or less incurved
but becoming open or spreading: fr. pyriform, about 1 in. long,
slender-stalked, brown or russet. China. Var. globosa, Rehd., has
globular fr. and lvs. usually ovate and round-based. The fls. of P.
phaeocarpa are unusually large, lvs. deep green and very lustrous; a
handsome small tree. Hardy N.
II. Malus. The Apples.

}}

Describe the plant here...

==Cultivation==


===Propagation===


===Pests and diseases===


==Species==


==Gallery==
{{photo-sources}}

<gallery>
Image:Upload.png| photo 1
Image:Upload.png| photo 2
Image:Upload.png| photo 3
</gallery>

==References==
*[[Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture]], by L. H. Bailey, MacMillan Co., 1963




==External links==
*{{wplink}}

{{stub}}
__NOTOC__

Pyrus nivalis

2009-12-09T13:25:46Z

125.99.85.99:

{{SPlantbox
|Min ht metric=cm
|Temp Metric=°F
|image=Upload.png
|image_width=240
}}
'''''Pyrus nivalis''''', more commonly known as the "snow pear", is a type of pear that grows naturally from south-east [[Europe]] to western [[Asia]]. It primarily grows in open areas where there is some sun. Like most pears, it produces fruit that can be eaten raw or cooked and has a mild sour taste. The plant usually grows in temperatures slightly below 15° [[Celsius]]. The plant itself is very colorful and may grow to a height of up to 10 meters and a width of about 8 meters. It is a very hardy plant that is able to withstand a small supply of water or very high or low temperatures.

== References ==

#[http://www.ibiblio.org/pfaf/cgi-bin/arr_html?Pyrus+nivalis Snow Pear Information]
#[http://www.pfaf.org/database/plants.php?Pyrus+nivalis Description of the Plant]
#[http://www.plantpress.com/plant-encyclopedia/plantdb.php?plant=2105 Physical Appearance]

{{Agri-stub}}
[[Category:Pears]]

Pumpkin and Squash

2009-12-03T13:05:57Z

125.99.85.99: Created page with '{{SPlantbox |Min ht metric=cm |Temp Metric=°F |image=Upload.png |image_width=240 }} {{Inc| Pumpkin and Squash. Fruits, and the plants that produce them, of species of Cucurbita,…'

{{SPlantbox
|Min ht metric=cm
|Temp Metric=°F
|image=Upload.png
|image_width=240
}}
{{Inc|
Pumpkin and Squash. Fruits, and the plants that produce them, of species of Cucurbita, used for food when cooked and also for stock-feed. See Cucurbita.
In North America, the word pumpkin (colloquially but incorrectly pronounced punkin) is applied to large late-maturing globular or oblong fruits of forms of Cucurbita Pepo, represented in the "field pumpkin" (Fig. 3257), from which pies are made and which is commonly fed to cattle and swine. The pumpkin is characterized by a five-angled stem which is not expanded where it joins the fruit (Fig. 1133, Vol. II), by rough vines and herbage, and by prominently lobed leaves. Sometimes the word is applied to some of the earlier forms of this species, as to the Sugar pumpkins that ripen late in summer or early in autumn and are used for pies. It is also applied to forms of Cucurbita moschata, which, in the form known as Canada Crook-neck squash, is sometimes called "pie pumpkin."
The word squash is adapted from an American Indian word, and is applied in an indefinite way to various members of the genus Cucurbita. The application of the name does not conform to the specific lines of the plants. What are called summer squashes are mostly varieties of Cucurbita Pepo, of the Crookneck and Pattypan type. The winter squashes are either C. maxima or C. moschata, chiefly the former. If the name squash belongs to one species more than to another, this species is probably C. maxima. This species produces fruit with very firm or "solid" yellow flesh. The pictures on pages 909-911 in Vol. II, show some of the forms of these species. Fig. 3258 is the Winter or Canada Crook-neck, one of the forms of C. moschata. Figs. 3259-3262 are forms of the multifarious Cucurbita Pepo. A further discussion of the application of the vernacular names will be found in Vol. II, page 909.

Culturally, the pumpkins and squashes comprise one group of warm-season frost-sensitive plants. They are very easy to grow, provided they are given a warm and quick soil. They are long-season plants (except the "bush" varieties of summer squash), and therefore in the North they are very likely to be caught by frosts before the full crop has matured, unless the plants are started early and make a rapid and continuous growth. In hard rough clay lands the plants do not get a foothold early enough to allow them to mature the crop. On such lands it is impossible, also, to plant the seeds early. As a consequence, nearly all squashes are grown on soils of a loose and relatively light character. Sandy lands or sandy loams are preferred in the northern limits, but an open clay loam is probably the best soil in general for these plants. On very rich bottom lands the plants often thrive remarkably well, but there is danger that they may run too much to vine, particularly when the soil has too much available fertilizer. In order that the plants shall start quickly, it is necessary that the soil be in excellent tilth. It is customary, with many large growers, to apply a little commercial fertilizer to the hills to give the plants a start. A fertilizer somewhat strong in nitrogen may answer this purpose very well; but care must be taken not to use nitrogen too late in the season, else the plants will continue to grow over- vigorously rather than to set fruit.

Pumpkins and squashes are of two general kinds, so far as culture is involved, the bush varieties and the long-running varieties. The bush types are usually early. The vines run very little, or not at all. The various summer squashes belong to this category, and most of them are varieties of Cucurbita Pepo. The hills of bush varieties are usually planted as close together as 4 by 4 feet. On high-priced land they are often planted 3 by 4 feet. The fruits are borne close to the center of the plant. The long-running varieties comprise the autumn and winter types; and to this category may also be referred, for cultural purposes, the common field pumpkins. There is much difference between the varieties as to length of vine. On strong soils, some varieties will run 15 to 20 feet, and sometimes even more, producing the fruit some feet from the hill or the root. These varieties are planted from 8 to 12 feet apart each way. Sometimes they are planted in corn-fields, and they are allowed to occupy the ground after tillage for the corn is completed, but with the introduction of corn-harvesting machinery this practice is falling away.

For general field conditions, the seeds of pumpkins and squashes are usually planted in hills where the plants are to stand. If the land is mellow and rich, these hills are nothing more than a bit of ground 12 to 18 inches across, that has been freshly hoed or spaded and leveled off. On this hill, from six to ten seeds are dropped, and they are covered an inch or less in depth. In order to provide the seeds with moisture, the earth is usually firmed with the hoe. When the very best results are desired, particularly for the home-garden, hills may be prepared by digging out a bushel of soil and filling the place with rich earth and fine manure.

It is expected that not more than three to five of the plants will finally be left to each hill; but there are many contingencies to be considered. The young plants may be taken off by cutworms or by other insects, or they may be caught by frost, and it is well not to remove the extra plants too soon.

If it is necessary to start the crop in advance of the season, the seeds may be planted in pots or boxes in a forcing-house or hotbed about three weeks before it is time to set them in the field. If the seeds are started much earlier than this, the plants are likely to get too large and to become stunted. When set in the field, the roots should fill the pot or box so that the earth is held in a compact ball, and the plant should be fresh, green, and stocky. Sometimes the seeds are planted on sections of inverted tough sod, and the entire piece is transferred directly to the field. Plants that become stunted and develop one or two flowers when they are in the box are usually of little use. Sometimes seeds are planted directly in the field in forcing hills, and when the plants are established and the season is settled the protecting box is removed and the plants stand in their permanent positions.

A good vine should produce two or three first-class fruits; if, however, one flower sets very early in the season, the vine may devote most of its energies to the perfection of that single fruit and not set many others, or may set them too late to allow them to mature. If it is desired, therefore, that the plants shall produce more than one fruit, it is advisable to pick off the first fruit, providing it sets long in advance of the appearance of other pistillate flowers. These remarks apply particularly to winter squashes in northern regions. With small varieties and under best conditions, as many as a half- dozen fruits may be secured from a single vine, and in some cases this number may be exceeded. Squash vines tend to root at the joints; but so far as general culture is concerned, this should be prevented, because it tends to prolong the growing season of the vine, although it may have to be encouraged if the borer is prevalent. It is usually well, therefore, to lift the joints occasionally when hoeing, although the vine should not be moved or disturbed. This precaution applies particularly in the short-season climates of the North, where every effort must be made to cause the plant to set its fruit early in the season and to complete its growth before cool weather.

Tillage is simple. It consists in light working of the surface until the plants begin to run strongly, after which the big weeds are pulled by hand. For early results with bush squashes, or when the land is of a cold or backward type, the plants may be grown in hills that are raised a few inches above the general level; this adds to the expense, and in most cases it is better to practise level culture.

The varieties of pumkpins and squashes are numerous, and it is difficult to keep them pure if various kinds are grown together. However, the true squashes (Cucurbita maxima) do not hybridize with the true pumpkin species (Cucurbita Pepo). There need be no fear, therefore, of mixing between the Crookneck or Scallop squashes on the one side and the varieties of Hubbard or Marrow types on the other. The summer or bush squashes are of three general classes: the Crook-necks, the Scallop or Pattypan varieties, and the Pineapple or oblong-conical varieties, all forms of C. Pepo. The autumn and winter varieties may be thrown into several groups: the true field pumpkin, of which the Connecticut Field (Fig. 3257) is the leading representative, being the one that is commonly used for stock and for pies; the Canada Crookneck or Cushaw types, which are varieties of C. moschata; the Marrow and Marble-head types, which are the leading winter squashes and are varieties of the C. maxima; the Turban squashes, which have a "squash within a squash" and are also varieties of C. maxima. The mammoth pumpkins or squashes which are sometimes grown for exhibition and which may weigh 200 or 300 pounds, are forms of C. maxima.

In Europe the vegetable marrow type is much prized. It is a form of Cucurbita Pepo. In this country it is little grown, although it thrives well, the various summer squashes of the Crookneck and Scallop types being more popular. The following English advice on this vegetable is from a contribution to Gardening Illustrated, from which Fig. 3263, representing Moore's vegetable marrow, is also reduced: "Vegetable marrows should be eaten young—say when about one-fourth or one-sixth their full size. Cut in this state, and boiled quickly until quite tender in plenty of water, carefully strained, and served with melted butter, they are second to no vegetable that comes to table, not even excepting green peas or asparagus. Early cutting, careful cooking, and serving are the chief points to which attention should be paid; but there are others, one of the principal being rapid growth. Grow vegetable marrows quickly, and they are almost sure to be good; grow them slowly, and you will find them often tough and bitter. Hence the soil or place in which they are grown can hardly be too rich for them. Not but what they do fairly well in any good garden soil, but the richer it is the better. On a rubbish-heap, for instance, vegetable marrows grow with wonderful vigor, and fruit abundantly." For early results, they are often started under glass in pots. There are many kinds or varieties. The custard marrows are fruits of the Scallop or Pattypan kind. The summer Crookneck is little used abroad for food.
Insect enemies and diseases of pumpkins and squashes are several. Perhaps the most serious is the striped cucumber beetle, which destroys the tender young plants. This insect is destroyed with the arsenicals applied in flour, also with tobacco powder and some other materials; but since it works on the under sides of the leaves as well as on the upper, it is difficult to make the application in such way as to afford a complete protection. The insects also are likely to appear in great numbers and to ruin the plants even whilst they are getting their fill of arsenic. If the beetles are abundant in the neighborhood, it is best to start a few plants very early and to plant them about the field in order to attract the early crop of beetles, thereby making it possible to destroy them. From these early plants the beetles may be hand-picked, or they may be killed with very heavy applications of arsenicals,—applications so strong that they may even injure the plants. Sometimes the hills of squashes are covered with wire gauze or mosquito netting that is held above the earth by means of hoops stuck into the ground. This affords a good protection from insects that arrive from the outside, providing the edges are thoroughly covered with earth so that the insects cannot crawl under; but if the insects should come through the ground beneath the covers they will destroy the plants, not being able to escape. The arsenicals should be applied when the dew is on, or the plants may be sprayed with bordeaux mixture to which the poison has been added. The squash bug or stink-bug may be handled in the same way as the striped cucumber beetle. This insect, however, remains throughout the season and, in many cases, it is necessary to resort to hand-picking. The insects crawl under chips or pieces of board at night, and this fact may be utilized in catching them. The young bugs can be killed by tobacco extract and soap, and by some of the emulsions.

The stem-borer attacks the vines later in the season, boring into the main stalk near the root, and causing the entire plant to lose vigor or to die. It is a soft white larva. As a safeguard, it is well to cover the vines at the joints with earth after they have begun to run, so that roots will form at these places and sustain the plant if the main stem is injured. The borers may also be cut out with a thin-bladed knife. Tobacco dust is said to keep the insect away. Infected vines should be burned to destroy larvae and eggs.

A wilt disease, caused by a species of bacillus, sometimes does damage to species of Cucurbita. The disease is likely to be associated with the punctures of the striped beetle. Burn the infected plants.

The summer squashes are eaten before the shell becomes hard, and not afterward. A thoroughly mature Crookneck or Scallop is not used and not marketable. The late forms of Cucurbita Pepo, like the field pumpkin, are not long keepers, but the late squashes of the C. maxima type, as Hubbard, Boston Marrow, and Marblehead, can be kept till late spring. To keep these late squashes, care should be taken to have them full grown, with hard shells, not frosted or otherwise injured; they should be harvested with the stem on, and much care should be exercised to prevent any bruising or rough handling. In a rather dry and somewhat dark cellar, with a temperature of about 40°, such fruits may be kept all winter. Commercial growers store them in above-ground houses built for the purpose, placed only one layer deep on racks or shelves. The house is well insulated to prevent fluctuation, kept dry, and provided with a stove or other heat for very cold weather, the temperature maintained at about 40° to 45° F. The following advice on the storing of squashes was written for the "Cyclopedia of American Horticulture" by W. W. Rawson: "Cut the squashes just before they are thoroughly ripe. Be careful not to start the stem in the squash. Lay them on the ground one deep and let them dry in the sun two or three days before bringing to the building. Handle very carefully when putting in, and be sure that the wagon in which they are carried has springs. Put them two deep on shelves in a building. This should be done on a cool, dry day. If the weather continues cool and dry, keep them well aired by day; but, if damp weather comes, build a small fire in the stove in order to dry out the green stems. Keep the temperature about 50°, and air well in dry weather. The squashes may need picking over about Christmas if put in the building about October 1; handle very carefully when picking over. Fifty tons can be kept in a single building with a small fire. Do not let them freeze, but if temperature goes down to 40° at times it will do no harm; nor should it be allowed to go as high as 70°. The Hubbard squash keeps best and longest and does not shrink in weight as much as other kinds; but any of them will shrink 20 per cent if kept until January 1." L.H.B
}}

Describe the plant here...

==Cultivation==


===Propagation===


===Pests and diseases===


==Species==


==Gallery==
{{photo-sources}}

<gallery>
Image:Upload.png| photo 1
Image:Upload.png| photo 2
Image:Upload.png| photo 3
</gallery>

==References==
*[[Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture]], by L. H. Bailey, MacMillan Co., 1963




==External links==
*{{wplink}}

{{stub}}
__NOTOC__

Pomelo

2009-12-01T17:43:28Z

125.99.85.99: Created page with '{{SPlantbox |Min ht metric=cm |Temp Metric=°F |image=Upload.png |image_width=240 }} {{Inc| Pummelo (possibly contraction of Dutch pompel- moes). A generic term including most of…'

{{SPlantbox
|Min ht metric=cm
|Temp Metric=°F
|image=Upload.png
|image_width=240
}}
{{Inc|
Pummelo (possibly contraction of Dutch pompel- moes). A generic term including most of the varieties of Citrus grandis (see page 782, Vol. II), other names for forms of this species being grapefruit (page 1391, Vol. III) and shaddock (Vol. VI).

The grapefruits long grown in the West Indies and the United States comprise a group of very juicy- subglo- bose (not pear-shaped) thin-skinned varieties differing widely from the common pummelos of the East Indies which are usually more or less pear-shaped, thick- skinned, and have a firm pulp. These latter are called shaddocks in the West Indies and United States. These two extremes are well separated in the character of the fruit and also show differences in the leaves and twigs, the pummelos having more or less hairy twigs, leaves downy on the under surface and very broadly winged petioles, while the grapefruits have nearly smooth, slender twigs, leaves smooth on the under surface, and narrower petioles.

In the Orient, however, there are a multitude of forms of pummelos. among which occur all the intermediates between me two extreme types noted above. Under these circumstances it seems advisable to retain the word pummelo in its usual East Indian sense, i. e., to include all varieties of Citrus grandis with the exception of the grapefruit group which is sufficiently distinct to merit a separate name. The attempt was made some years ago to apply the name pomelo to the grapefruit in this country but this name never attained any currency among growers, shippers, dealers, and consumers and was largely restricted to books and bulletins on descriptive horticulture. Pomelo is really a variant of pummelo, also written pummelow, pum- meloe, pummalo, pumelo, pomello, and so on. In view of this confusing perplexity of similar names, it seems inadvisable to attempt to distinguish by the name pomelo the grapefruit of America from the pummelo of the East Indies.

As a result of a trip to Japan, China, and the Philippine Islands made by the writer in 1915, it was found that some varieties of pummelos were very resistant to citrus canker (caused by Pseudomonas citri), unlike the grapefruit which is very susceptible to this disease. Unless citrus canker can be wholly eradicated from the southeastern United States it will be necessary to hybridize the grapefruit with the most canker-resistant sorts of citrous fruits in the hope of securing new varieties combining the juiciness and high flavor of the grapefruit with the canker-resistance of the other parent. In this work the canker-resistant varieties of the pummelo, some of them of excellent quality, promise to be of capital importance.

In view of this unforeseen importance of the pummelo, the following sketch of the more promising known varieties is given:

Malayan varieties.—Banda navel, from Plo-ay, Banda Islands, Malaysia. Fruits very large, nearly round but bumpy, growing in clusters of five or six; peel an inch thick; pulp white, juicier and sweeter than the common pummelo, nearly or quite seedless; the fruits sometimes show an included navel, a smaller fruit the size of a peeled orange being formed near the top of the larger fruit. Navel fruits are very rare in seedlings grown in Amboyna from seed brought from Banda. This very interesting variety described by Rumphius about 200 years ago does not seem to have been noticed since.—Cassomba. Rumphius describes this as a depressed globose variety as large as a man's head, commonly grown on the island of Amboyna. It has red vinous pulp as sweet as currants when ripe, often seedless.—Labuan, or Bali (?). A seedless pummelo of very superior quality is said to have been introduced by Sir Hugh Low from the island of Bali to Labuan Island off the coast of Borneo, from whence it was sent some fifteen years ago to the West Indies. The tree is said be thornless.

Indian varieties.—Bombay Red. Fruit subglobose, 7 inches diameter; skin 1/4-1/2 inch thick; pulp very juicy, deep red (color of raw beef), pleasantly subacid, with a characteristic flavor. This is said by E. E. Bonavia to be "by far the finest variety of pummelo" he had seen. He describes a number of other sorts varying in shape, size, color, and juiciness. The leaves and twigs of some varieties are smooth; of others downy or hairy. In 1904 a collection of thirteen sorts of Indian pummelos was received by the Department of Agriculture from the Botanic Garden at Calcutta. A number of these have fruited both in California and Florida. One of these Indian pummelos (shown in Fig. 3256) was grown at Eustis, Florida, in 1915, and has pink flesh.

Siamese varieties.—The Siamese seedless pummelos, grown in the Nakon chaisri district, have long been famous and have recently been studied there by H. H. Boyle (Phil. Ag. Rev. 7:65-9, pls. 3, 4, Feb., 1914. Journ. Heredity, 5:440-7, pls. 1-3, Oct., 1914). Oval Nakon chaisri. The best variety is slightly oval, 4 1/2 inches diameter, 4 inches high: skin pale yellow; flesh white, juicy, aromatic, not bitter; seeds few or none. Boyle considers this variety superior to any other pummelo and to any grapefruit and says it is a good fruit for market purposes.—Flat Nakon chaisri. A very flat fruit, 4 7/8 inches diameter, 3 1/4 inches high; skin bright yellow; flesh white, juicy, aromatic; seeds few or none. Boyle considers this an excellent fruit for market purposes. Two other seedless varieties, but of somewhat inferior quality, were found by Boyle.
Japanese varieties.—In Japan many varieties of pummelos, there called Buntan, Uchimurasaki or Jabon are known, variously estimated from 75 to 200. The following are among some of the more promising studied by T.Tanaka in the course of a survey of the citrous fruits
of Japan: Hirado. Large, depressed globose, about 4-5 inches in diameter and 3-4 inches high, with grapefruit-like smooth skin of lemon-yellow color; pulp juicy, rind thin, segments regular, core rather small, very good flavor; seeds small but numerous. This variety originated at Hirado near Nagasaki, Japan, some seventyfive years ago as a seedling of a pummelo brought from Java. The writer saw bearing trees of this variety at the Nagasaki agricultural experiment station in 1915 and found the fruits to be juicy and of excellent quality and noted that the tree remained almost entirely exempt from citrus canker (caused by Pseudomonas cilri) which was attacking seriously Washington navel orange trees grown only a few yards distant. On account of its superior quality and high degree of canker-resistance, hybrids were made in June, 1915, between it and American grapefuit by means of pollen shipped from Florida to Nagasaki in vacuum tubes (Science N.S. 42:375-377. Sept., 1915). It is hoped to secure in this way canker-resistant hybrids equal to the grapefruit in quality. Seedlings of the Hirado pummelo are now being grown by the Department of Agriculture.—Ogami, vicinity of Kagoshima; rare; very large, very flat; rind smooth; thin, pinkish; core large, segments numerous, some-times twenty-five, pulp pinkish, fine-grained, juicy, very good quality; seeds numerous.—Hata-jirushi, experiment farm of Count Tachibana, Yanagawa, Fukuoka-ken. A very large flat pummelo like the Ogami, very much like the latter in general characters but rind much thicker and pulp vesicles coarser, good-flavored; seeds numerous.—Yoko-jirushi, experiment farm of Count Tachibana, Yanagawa, Fukuoka-ken. A large round variety with rough skin; oil-glands remarkably large and prominent, not much rag, segments regular, pulp slightly pinkish, good quality, vesicles long and parallel; seeds numerous.—Take-jirushi, experiment farm of Count Tachibana. Long-oval in shape, with salmon-colored flesh, segments large and rather irregular, very sweet and of good quality; seeds few.—Tamura. Shinkai-mura, Kochi-ken; a round, smooth-skinned variety, with pale pink flesh, segments irregular, large, pulp coarsegrained and good quality; seeds very few.

Formosan varieties.—Mato. Matao, Ensuiko-cho, Formosa. Common; fruit small, conical; rough-skinned, rind very thin; core small, pulp similar to the Ogami, very high quality; practically seedless; very early ripening. Besides the Mato pummelo, red (To yu) and white (Pei yu) pummelos of fairly good quality are commonly grown in Formosa.

Chinese varieties. Canton varieties.—There are at least half a dozen varieties grown about Canton. The Sung-ma is one of the best for export. The sorts commonly exported are pear-shaped, with a very fragrant thick peel and a very firm greenish yellow pulp of aromatic flavor. These pummelos are exported to all parts of the world where Cantonese Chinese live.—Amoy, a very large slightly pear-shaped pomelo with a thick skin and very firm white flesh, is produced near Amoy. In spite of its reputation it is of mediocre quality.

California seedlings.—There are many pummelo trees in northern California grown from seeds planted years ago by the Cantonese Chinese immigrants. Until a few years ago Canton pummelos were regularly imported by Chinese merchants in San Francisco. G. P. Rixford has located two score or more seedling trees in California which show considerable variation in the size, color, shape, and quality of the fruit. Some are of fairly good quality. These seedlings are mostly old bearing trees and furnish excellent opportunity for crossing with grapefruit in the hope of securing canker-resistant hybrids.

Florida shaddocks.—In Florida, pummelos have been grown for a long time under the West Indian name shaddock. The grapefruit is so much better, however, that shaddocks have almost disappeared. H. H. Hume lists only two varieties, the Mammoth, oblate, 5-6 inches diameter, flesh firm, white, sweetish, bitter; and the Pink, oblate-pyriform, 6x6 5/8 inches, flesh rough, pink, bitterish, subacid. Other forms are occasionally found but almost all are of very poor quality.

Hybrids.—Natural hybrids of the pummelo are common in Japan. They are mostly between the pummelo and the Mandarin types of oranges. Some are of great promise, however, being large, juicy, and very good-flavored. The common Natsu mikan, a very flat fruit 4-5 inches diameter, 2 1/2-3 inches high, ripening very late in the season, is probably one of these hybrids. This group of hybrids is very similar to the tangelo, obtained by crossing the grapefruit with oranges of the Mandarin type. In India there seem to be natural hybrids between pummelos and lemons or citrons; possibly the group of citrous fruits called Amilbed by Bonavia is of this nature. After discovering that some varieties of pummelos are very resistant to citrus canker, the author inaugurated in 1915 in Japan a series of experiments in hybridizing the Florida grapefruit with different varieties of Japanese pummelos in the hope of securing canker-resistent grapefruit-like hybrids, as was noted above under Hirado pummelo.
Sour pummelos.—In India and other eastern countries very large acid-fleshed pummelos occur which are said to yield up to a quart of juice. One such sour pummelo grown near Eustis, Florida, has been used in breeding new types of acid fruits by hybridizing.

Walter T. Swingle.
}}

Describe the plant here...

==Cultivation==


===Propagation===


===Pests and diseases===


==Species==


==Gallery==
{{photo-sources}}

<gallery>
Image:Upload.png| photo 1
Image:Upload.png| photo 2
Image:Upload.png| photo 3
</gallery>

==References==
*[[Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture]], by L. H. Bailey, MacMillan Co., 1963




==External links==
*{{wplink}}

{{stub}}
__NOTOC__

Pultenaea rosea

2009-12-01T17:40:00Z

125.99.85.99: Created page with '{{SPlantbox |Min ht metric=cm |Temp Metric=°F |image=Upload.png |image_width=240 }} {{Inc| Pultenaea rosea, F. Muell. Erect heath-like shrub with virgate branches: lvs. linear-t…'

{{SPlantbox
|Min ht metric=cm
|Temp Metric=°F
|image=Upload.png
|image_width=240
}}
{{Inc|
Pultenaea rosea, F. Muell. Erect heath-like shrub with virgate branches: lvs. linear-terete; stipules subulate-pointed: fls. pink, in terminal heads; calyx silky pubescent: pod acuminate. Austral. G.Z. 21:193.
}}

Describe the plant here...

==Cultivation==


===Propagation===


===Pests and diseases===


==Species==


==Gallery==
{{photo-sources}}

<gallery>
Image:Upload.png| photo 1
Image:Upload.png| photo 2
Image:Upload.png| photo 3
</gallery>

==References==
*[[Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture]], by L. H. Bailey, MacMillan Co., 1963




==External links==
*{{wplink}}

{{stub}}
__NOTOC__

Pultenaea

2009-12-01T17:38:14Z

125.99.85.99: Created page with '{{SPlantbox |Min ht metric=cm |Temp Metric=°F |image=Upload.png |image_width=240 }} {{Inc| Pultenaea (probably named after Dr. Richard Pultcney, 1730-1801). Leguminosae. Shrubs …'

{{SPlantbox
|Min ht metric=cm
|Temp Metric=°F
|image=Upload.png
|image_width=240
}}
{{Inc|
Pultenaea (probably named after Dr. Richard Pultcney, 1730-1801). Leguminosae. Shrubs suitable for the warmhouse, not commonly in cultivation, although many species have been occasionally grown.

Leaves alternate or rarely ternate-verticillate: fls. axillary and solitary or in terminal heads, usually yellow, orange or mixed with purple; ovary sessile or rarely short-stipitate: pods ovate, compressed or turgid, 2-valved.—About 90 species in Austral. Pul- teneas grow best in a mixture of peat and silver sand and are said to need firm potting and careful watering with soft water. Prop. by seed or by cuttings made of the points of shoots when about three parts matured.
}}

Describe the plant here...

==Cultivation==


===Propagation===


===Pests and diseases===


==Species==


==Gallery==
{{photo-sources}}

<gallery>
Image:Upload.png| photo 1
Image:Upload.png| photo 2
Image:Upload.png| photo 3
</gallery>

==References==
*[[Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture]], by L. H. Bailey, MacMillan Co., 1963




==External links==
*{{wplink}}

{{stub}}
__NOTOC__

Pulmonaria montana

2009-12-01T17:36:22Z

125.99.85.99: Created page with '{{SPlantbox |Min ht metric=cm |Temp Metric=°F |image=Upload.png |image_width=240 }} {{Inc| Pulmonarias montana. Lej. (P. mollis, Wolff, not Auth.). Height 6-20 in.: lvs. bright …'

{{SPlantbox
|Min ht metric=cm
|Temp Metric=°F
|image=Upload.png
|image_width=240
}}
{{Inc|
Pulmonarias montana. Lej. (P. mollis, Wolff, not Auth.). Height 6-20 in.: lvs. bright green, radical broadly elliptic- lanceolate, abruptly contracted to the petiole: fls. violet. April. Cent. Eu.—Some of the material cult, as P. mollis and its varieties is probably not the P. mollis of Wolff and is referable to P. officinalis.
}}

Describe the plant here...

==Cultivation==


===Propagation===


===Pests and diseases===


==Species==


==Gallery==
{{photo-sources}}

<gallery>
Image:Upload.png| photo 1
Image:Upload.png| photo 2
Image:Upload.png| photo 3
</gallery>

==References==
*[[Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture]], by L. H. Bailey, MacMillan Co., 1963




==External links==
*{{wplink}}

{{stub}}
__NOTOC__

Pulmonaria angustifolia

2009-12-01T17:31:24Z

125.99.85.99: Created page with '{{SPlantbox |Min ht metric=cm |Temp Metric=°F |image=Upload.png |image_width=240 }} {{Inc| Pulmonarias angustifolia, Linn. Height 6-12 in.: st. setose-hairy, having a few glands…'

{{SPlantbox
|Min ht metric=cm
|Temp Metric=°F
|image=Upload.png
|image_width=240
}}
{{Inc|
Pulmonarias angustifolia, Linn. Height 6-12 in.: st. setose-hairy, having a few glands: radical lvs. linear-lanceolate to oblong-lanceolate, gradually tapering to and decurrent on petiole: fls. blue. April, May. Woods, Eu. Var. azurea, Hort., has been listed.
}}

Describe the plant here...

==Cultivation==


===Propagation===


===Pests and diseases===


==Species==


==Gallery==
{{photo-sources}}

<gallery>
Image:Upload.png| photo 1
Image:Upload.png| photo 2
Image:Upload.png| photo 3
</gallery>

==References==
*[[Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture]], by L. H. Bailey, MacMillan Co., 1963




==External links==
*{{wplink}}

{{stub}}
__NOTOC__

Pulmonaria officinalis

2009-12-01T17:29:19Z

125.99.85.99: Created page with '{{SPlantbox |Min ht metric=cm |Temp Metric=°F |image=Upload.png |image_width=240 }} {{Inc| Pulmonarias officinalis, Linn. (P. maculata, F. G. Dietr.). Height 6-12 in.: radical l…'

{{SPlantbox
|Min ht metric=cm
|Temp Metric=°F
|image=Upload.png
|image_width=240
}}
{{Inc|
Pulmonarias officinalis, Linn. (P. maculata, F. G. Dietr.). Height 6-12 in.: radical lvs. in distinct tufts, ovate-oblong to nearly linear, on long footstalks, coarsely hairy, more or less spotted: fls. in terminal forked cymes, red fading to violet. April. Woods, Eu. Gn. 74, p. 213.—Commonly cult.
}}

Describe the plant here...

==Cultivation==


===Propagation===


===Pests and diseases===


==Species==


==Gallery==
{{photo-sources}}

<gallery>
Image:Upload.png| photo 1
Image:Upload.png| photo 2
Image:Upload.png| photo 3
</gallery>

==References==
*[[Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture]], by L. H. Bailey, MacMillan Co., 1963




==External links==
*{{wplink}}

{{stub}}
__NOTOC__

Pulmonaria saccharata

2009-12-01T17:11:49Z

125.99.85.99: Created page with '{{SPlantbox |Min ht metric=cm |Temp Metric=°F |image=Upload.png |image_width=240 }} {{Inc| Pulmonarias saccharata. Mill. Bethlehem Sage. Height 6-18 in.: st. setose-hairy, with …'

{{SPlantbox
|Min ht metric=cm
|Temp Metric=°F
|image=Upload.png
|image_width=240
}}
{{Inc|
Pulmonarias saccharata. Mill. Bethlehem Sage. Height 6-18 in.: st. setose-hairy, with articulate glands: radical lvs. oval-acuminate at both ends, slightly decurrent, larger than in following species: fls. whitish or reddish violet. April, May. In shady places, Eu. G. 29:147.
}}

Describe the plant here...

==Cultivation==


===Propagation===


===Pests and diseases===


==Species==


==Gallery==
{{photo-sources}}

<gallery>
Image:Upload.png| photo 1
Image:Upload.png| photo 2
Image:Upload.png| photo 3
</gallery>

==References==
*[[Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture]], by L. H. Bailey, MacMillan Co., 1963




==External links==
*{{wplink}}

{{stub}}
__NOTOC__

Pulmonaria

2009-12-01T17:00:54Z

125.99.85.99: Created page with '{{SPlantbox |Min ht metric=cm |Temp Metric=°F |image=Upload.png |image_width=240 }} {{Inc| Pulmonaria (Latin, lung; the herb having been considered a remedy for diseases of the …'

{{SPlantbox
|Min ht metric=cm
|Temp Metric=°F
|image=Upload.png
|image_width=240
}}
{{Inc|
Pulmonaria (Latin, lung; the herb having been considered a remedy for diseases of the lungs). Bor- aginaceae. Lungwort. Perennial herbs with a creeping rootstock, used in flower-gardens and hardy borders.

Leaves radical, often broad, cauline few and alternate: fls. in terminal cymes, rather large, blue or purple; calyx tubular-campanulate, 5-toothed or cleft to the middle only; corolla-tube straight, naked or pilose, limbs spreading, 5-lobed; stamens included in the tube: nuts smooth.—About 8-10 species in Eu. and 1 species said to extend into N. Asia. Mertensia, an allied genus, has a short open more deeply-cleft calyx, exserted, stamens, and slightly fleshy nuts.

Pulmonarias are of easy cultivation, preferring light soil, not very dry, in open or partially shaded positions. They are readily propagated by division. Divide the clumps every two or three years.

P. Alba, Hort. Saul., is presumably Mertensia sibirica var. alba.— P. avernensis, Hort., with purple-blue fls.and compact growth, and its var. alba, Hort., with pure white fls., and good green lf., flowering in March, are listed.-P. sibirica. See Mertensia sibirica.—P. virginica. See Mertensia virginica.
F. W. Barclay.
F. Tracy Hubbard.
}}

Describe the plant here...

==Cultivation==


===Propagation===


===Pests and diseases===


==Species==


==Gallery==
{{photo-sources}}

<gallery>
Image:Upload.png| photo 1
Image:Upload.png| photo 2
Image:Upload.png| photo 3
</gallery>

==References==
*[[Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture]], by L. H. Bailey, MacMillan Co., 1963




==External links==
*{{wplink}}

{{stub}}
__NOTOC__

Pterocarpus

2009-11-04T07:04:14Z

125.99.85.99: Created page with '{{SPlantbox |Min ht metric=cm |Temp Metric=°F |image=Upload.png |image_width=240 }} {{Inc| Pterocarpus (Greek, wing fruit; the pods are girded by a broad wing). Leguminosae. Tre…'

{{SPlantbox
|Min ht metric=cm
|Temp Metric=°F
|image=Upload.png
|image_width=240
}}
{{Inc|
Pterocarpus (Greek, wing fruit; the pods are girded by a broad wing). Leguminosae. Trees or woody climbers without prickles: lvs. alternate, uneven-pinnate; lfts. alternate or irregularly opposite, without stipules: fls. yellow, rarely mixed with violet and white, often showy, in axillary or terminal racemes; calyx turbinate; standard orbicular or broad-ovate, wings obliquely obovate or oblong, keel with its petals resembling or shorter than the wings, free or shortly connate; stamens all connate in a sheath slit above, or both above and below, or the upper one free; ovary sessile or stipitate: pod compressed, indehiscent, orbicular or broad-ovate.—About 45 species, natives of the tropics of both hemispheres. The following species may be in cult, in some greenhouses: P. Draco, Linn., growing 30 ft. high, native of Trop. Amer. P. indicus, Willd., "Burmese rosewood," growing about as high, but a native of the E. Indies. P. Marsupium, Roxbg., a pale yellow-fld. tree reaching a, height of 40 ft. Coro- mandel. P. Rohrii, Vahl, from Trop. Amer., which grows to be 20 ft. high.
}}

Describe the plant here...

==Cultivation==


===Propagation===


===Pests and diseases===


==Species==


==Gallery==
{{photo-sources}}

<gallery>
Image:Upload.png| photo 1
Image:Upload.png| photo 2
Image:Upload.png| photo 3
</gallery>

==References==
*[[Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture]], by L. H. Bailey, MacMillan Co., 1963




==External links==
*{{wplink}}

{{stub}}
__NOTOC__

Pterocactus

2009-11-04T06:59:17Z

125.99.85.99: Created page with '{{SPlantbox |Min ht metric=cm |Temp Metric=°F |image=Upload.png |image_width=240 }} {{Inc| Pterocactus (wingcactus). Cactaceae-. Low cacti, with numerous slender round sts. : fr…'

{{SPlantbox
|Min ht metric=cm
|Temp Metric=°F
|image=Upload.png
|image_width=240
}}
{{Inc|
Pterocactus (wingcactus). Cactaceae-. Low cacti, with numerous slender round sts. : fr. a caps. ; seeds flat, winged. Three species described, all from Argentina, little cult. P. Kuntzei, Schum. Roots several, tuber- like: branches glaucous: spines 9-12, minute, appressed: fls. yellow, terminal. J. N. Rose.
}}

Describe the plant here...

==Cultivation==


===Propagation===


===Pests and diseases===


==Species==


==Gallery==
{{photo-sources}}

<gallery>
Image:Upload.png| photo 1
Image:Upload.png| photo 2
Image:Upload.png| photo 3
</gallery>

==References==
*[[Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture]], by L. H. Bailey, MacMillan Co., 1963




==External links==
*{{wplink}}

{{stub}}
__NOTOC__

Pteris leptophylla

2009-11-04T06:57:38Z

125.99.85.99: Created page with '{{SPlantbox |Min ht metric=cm |Temp Metric=°F |image=Upload.png |image_width=240 }} {{Inc| Pteris leptophylla, Swartz. Lf.-blades triangular, 9-12 in. each way, on straw-colored…'

{{SPlantbox
|Min ht metric=cm
|Temp Metric=°F
|image=Upload.png
|image_width=240
}}
{{Inc|
Pteris leptophylla, Swartz. Lf.-blades triangular, 9-12 in. each way, on straw-colored stalles; upper pinna simple, those below pinnatifid to a winged rachis, the lowest similarly bipinnatifid at the base; veins fine: sori not reaching the tips of the segms. Brazil. Known also as Litobrochia leptophylla.
}}

Describe the plant here...

==Cultivation==


===Propagation===


===Pests and diseases===


==Species==


==Gallery==
{{photo-sources}}

<gallery>
Image:Upload.png| photo 1
Image:Upload.png| photo 2
Image:Upload.png| photo 3
</gallery>

==References==
*[[Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture]], by L. H. Bailey, MacMillan Co., 1963




==External links==
*{{wplink}}

{{stub}}
__NOTOC__

Pteris Wallichiana

2009-11-04T06:55:21Z

125.99.85.99: Created page with '{{SPlantbox |Min ht metric=cm |Temp Metric=°F |image=Upload.png |image_width=240 }} {{Inc| Pteris Wallichiana, Agardh. Lf.-blades tripartite, with the lateral divisions again fo…'

{{SPlantbox
|Min ht metric=cm
|Temp Metric=°F
|image=Upload.png
|image_width=240
}}
{{Inc|
Pteris Wallichiana, Agardh. Lf.-blades tripartite, with the lateral divisions again forked, the central one reaching 2 ft. long, with numerous lanceolate sessile opposite pinnules, cut again into numerous narrow lobes 1/8in- wide. India, Japan, and the Philippine Isls. Known also as Campteria Wallichiana.
}}

Describe the plant here...

==Cultivation==


===Propagation===


===Pests and diseases===


==Species==


==Gallery==
{{photo-sources}}

<gallery>
Image:Upload.png| photo 1
Image:Upload.png| photo 2
Image:Upload.png| photo 3
</gallery>

==References==
*[[Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture]], by L. H. Bailey, MacMillan Co., 1963




==External links==
*{{wplink}}

{{stub}}
__NOTOC__

Pteris biaurita

2009-11-04T06:53:32Z

125.99.85.99: Created page with '{{SPlantbox |Min ht metric=cm |Temp Metric=°F |image=Upload.png |image_width=240 }} {{Inc| Pteris biaurita, Linn. (P. maxima, Baker. P.ncmoralis, Willd.). Lf.-blades 15-30 in. l…'

{{SPlantbox
|Min ht metric=cm
|Temp Metric=°F
|image=Upload.png
|image_width=240
}}
{{Inc|
Pteris biaurita, Linn. (P. maxima, Baker. P.ncmoralis, Willd.). Lf.-blades 15-30 in. long, with a terminal pinna 6-9 in. long, cut into narrow round-pointed divisions on 7-10 pairs of similar lateral ones, the lowest pair bearing a fork on the lower basal side. All tropical regions.—Habit very like P. quadriaurita, from which it differs chiefly in the venation. Var. cristata (P. maxima var. cristata, Hort.) is a cult. form.
}}

Describe the plant here...

==Cultivation==


===Propagation===


===Pests and diseases===


==Species==


==Gallery==
{{photo-sources}}

<gallery>
Image:Upload.png| photo 1
Image:Upload.png| photo 2
Image:Upload.png| photo 3
</gallery>

==References==
*[[Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture]], by L. H. Bailey, MacMillan Co., 1963




==External links==
*{{wplink}}

{{stub}}
__NOTOC__

Pteris scaberula

2009-11-04T06:52:00Z

125.99.85.99: Created page with '{{SPlantbox |Min ht metric=cm |Temp Metric=°F |image=Upload.png |image_width=240 }} {{Inc| Pteris scaberula, Richard. Lf.-blades 12-18 in. long, on brownish scabrous stalks, lan…'

{{SPlantbox
|Min ht metric=cm
|Temp Metric=°F
|image=Upload.png
|image_width=240
}}
{{Inc|
Pteris scaberula, Richard. Lf.-blades 12-18 in. long, on brownish scabrous stalks, lanceolate-ovate in outline, tripinnate or quadri-pinnatifid throughout; rachis flexuous, scabrous; sori at maturity covering nearly the entire surface of the narrow lanceolate segms. New Zeal.
}}

Describe the plant here...

==Cultivation==


===Propagation===


===Pests and diseases===


==Species==


==Gallery==
{{photo-sources}}

<gallery>
Image:Upload.png| photo 1
Image:Upload.png| photo 2
Image:Upload.png| photo 3
</gallery>

==References==
*[[Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture]], by L. H. Bailey, MacMillan Co., 1963




==External links==
*{{wplink}}

{{stub}}
__NOTOC__

Pteris tremula

2009-11-04T06:49:48Z

125.99.85.99: Created page with '{{SPlantbox |Min ht metric=cm |Temp Metric=°F |image=Upload.png |image_width=240 }} {{Inc| Pteris tremula, R. Br. Lf.-blades 2-4 ft. long, on polished chestnut-brown stalks; upp…'

{{SPlantbox
|Min ht metric=cm
|Temp Metric=°F
|image=Upload.png
|image_width=240
}}
{{Inc|
Pteris tremula, R. Br. Lf.-blades 2-4 ft. long, on polished chestnut-brown stalks; upper pinnae simply pinnate, lower often much compound: sori copious, sometimes filling up the whole segm. except the rachis. Austral., New Zeal.—Many forms occur in cult., as var. Smithiana (P. Smithii, Hort.), variegata, and the like.
}}

Describe the plant here...

==Cultivation==


===Propagation===


===Pests and diseases===


==Species==


==Gallery==
{{photo-sources}}

<gallery>
Image:Upload.png| photo 1
Image:Upload.png| photo 2
Image:Upload.png| photo 3
</gallery>

==References==
*[[Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture]], by L. H. Bailey, MacMillan Co., 1963




==External links==
*{{wplink}}

{{stub}}
__NOTOC__

Planting

2009-09-13T13:00:49Z

125.99.85.99:

__NOTOC__{{Plantbox
| latin_name = ''LATINNAME'' 
| common_names = 
| growth_habit = ? 
| high = ? 
| wide = 
| origin = ? 
| poisonous = 
| lifespan = 
| exposure = ? 
| water = ? 
| features = 
| hardiness = 
| bloom = 
| usda_zones = ? 
| sunset_zones = 
| color = IndianRed
| image = Upload.png 
| image_width = 240px 
| image_caption = 
| regnum = Plantae 
| divisio = 
| classis = 
| ordo = 
| familia = 
| genus =
| species =
| subspecies =
| cultivar =
}}
{{Inc|


Planting. This Cyclopedia considers or kinds horticultural work, the growing of plants, and the identifying of plants. The latter purpose runs through every generic entry, throughout the alphabet. The instructions for growing are combined with these generic entries, and are also extended in many separate articles, under the popular names of the plants themselves, as Rose, Strawberry, Carnation, Lettuce, Mushroom, and many others; and they are also displayed in class articles, as Alpine Plants, Kitchen-Gardening, Annuals, Biennials, Perennials, Herbs, Orchids, Palms, Arboriculture, and many others.
At this point, another set of class articles is assembled, with the purpose to bring together such instruction as is commonly associated with what is known as "planting,"—with the use of plants in the open and particularly in relation to their uses as a part of a landscape development. In connection with this symposium, the reader will naturally give special attention to the assembly on Herbs in Vol. III and on Landscape Gardening in Vol. IV. Inasmuch as trees are discussed under Arboriculture and herbaceous plants under Herbs, the present treatment is mostly of shrubs. (Figs. 3001-3005,3011-12, are adapted from "Garden and Forest.")

This symposium on planting has the following parts:
Page
The relation of planting to the fundamental design (Pilat).. . .2657
Village improvement in relation to planting (Waugh) 2658
Shrubbery in the landscape (L. H. B., Simonds) 2660
Woods in the landscape (Manning) 2662
Wild-gardening (Miller) 2663
Bog-gardening (Taylor) 2666
Water-gardening (Tricker) 2668
Subtropical-gardening (Manning) 2669
Plants for the seaside (Manning) 2670
Succulent plants (Thompson) 2672
Topiary planting and garden architecture (Montillon) 2675
Planting for winter effect (Miller) 2677
Planting on walls (Miller) 2680
Screen-planting (Curtis) 2681
Winter protection of planting (Egan, Watson) 2684
Shrubs, small trees, and woody vines (Curtis) 2690
Shrubs for the Middle West (Miller) 2693
Shrubs for street and park planting (Mulford) 2694
Shrubs for midcontinental regions (Irish) 2694
Shrubs and climbers for the South (Berekmans) 2696
Ornamental shrubs for California (Gregg and Stevens) 2700
Vines for California (Gregg, Stevens and Jones) 2705

The relation of planting to the fundamental design.

It is the business of the landscape architect to combine beauty and utility into a harmonious composition. The artistic aim in the practice of landscape architecture is to produce beautiful pictures. To achieve such pictures, the creative imagination must be controlled by familiarity with the accepted canons of design. Good design in landscape work must be based on the fundamental principles of art and the laws of nature. Fitness, proportion, variety, mystery or intricacy, unity, and harmony,—all these must be considered.

While it is the aim, in creating landscape gardens and parks, to produce natural effects, the best results are not necessarily secured by a mere imitation of nature as it happens to exist in a given locality. It is possible to modify nature to fit artificial conditions; and by changing the scale, by adding new features, or making different combinations, compositions may be produced which have all the charm of a natural scene, yet surpass nature in beauty and interest. Varied emotions are produced by different compositions. Sometimes the mood is gay, as in flower-gardens. Awe, wonder, and admiration are produced by the large natural features,— rocks, cliffs, canons, waterfalls, the mountains,and the sea. Mystery and intricacy are conceived by rambles through the dense woods and jungles. Rest, peace, tranquillity are suggested by certain woodland scenes, a sheltered lake, or a meadow with a meandering stream. The sense of deliberation, dignity, and maturity is produced by the stately arched trees of avenue or mall, and by groves of matured trees.

Many laymen and artists think of landscape architecture only as a decorative art; and to their minds planting is of value only in so far as the foliage hides some ugly foundation, softens hard lines or relieves bare spaces, screens some unsightly view or forms a setting for an architectural feature. Sculptors and architects especially are prone to think that the most charming natural parts of our public parks are suitable sites for memorials in stone and statues in marble and bronze. They reason that the spreading branches of the trees and the background of foliage will enhance the beauty of their work of art. Their thought is of their own creation and they fail to realize that by introducing an artificial object, no matter how beautiful it may be in itself, the harmony and beauty of the natural scene may be destroyed.

From the point of view of the landscape architect, planting is not merely a superficial decorative process. He considers the arrangement and disposition of the foliage-masses as well as the modeling of the earth's surfaces to be fundamental in landscape design. Necessary buildings, roads, paths, and other artificial features, must be provided for use and enjoyment; but the best design is the one that succeeds in effectively obscuring or subduing these necessary objects in the landscape and still provides fully the facilities required for use, shelter, and other enjoyments of the people.

While design is the main consideration in creating a landscape, nature, life, and time are necessary for the completion of the design and the full development of its beauty. The beauty of a landscape is dependent largely on the green living things, as trees, shrubs, grass; but the success of the picture is due more to the disposition and arrangement of the material than to the materials themselves. Therefore, it sometimes happens that a thorough knowledge of horticulture, especially when this knowledge is combined with great enthusiasm and, perhaps, with an added interest in botany, is a decided handicap to the success of the amateur designer. The horticultural features are overemphasized at the expense of the composition. Many places and parks that were originally well designed have been robbed of their charm and beauty and landscape effects, because of the interest and enthusiasm on the part of gardeners, owners of estates, or park commissioners in horticultural things. In the conviction that they are embellishing the beauty of a glade, valley, lawn, or meadow, they proceed to cover these open spaces with rare specimens of trees and shrubs, thus destroying the arrangement. Open areas should not be considered as waste space.

A landscape design may be either formal or natural. The character of the planting of formal gardens and terraces and the embellishment of buildings by planting should be in harmony with the type of architecture and with the nature of the site of the garden of the garden and its relation to the house. In the design of a natural landscape, the three general classes of planting material- woods, shrubbery, and lawns or meadows— should intermingle to a certain extent, and yet be so arranged as to present in general an open central feature of lawn or meadow, with the masses of foliage surrounding. This provides unity, and the broad masses of light and shade produce a pleasing composition.

The outlines of the lawn or meadow should be irregular, and their limits somewhat obscured. Now and then trees or groups should be introduced, especially near the boundaries of the lawn, to add diversity and interest; the shadows will relieve the monotonous expanse of light. To design effective plantations, a Knowledge of planting material, a conception of composition, and imagination and taste are requisite.

In planting, the landscape architect is more concerned with the color, texture, form, and size of flowers and foliage than with botanical families or with cultural requirements of plants; still, in order to design places and parks that will be in harmony with the general surroundings and to use material that will thrive, he must be familiar with the indigenous plant material, and know what soil conditions and locations are suitable for their peculiar needs. However, it must not be assumed that only those trees, shrubs, and plants that grow in the immediate vicinity may be used; but, in the creation of the natural landscape, the native plants and trees should predominate.

The most important planting material used by the landscape architect is "grass seed." Ordinarily grass is not considered in the general conception of planting, but most landscape architects and many laymen realize that grass in the form of lawns and meadows is the most significant feature of our naturalistic landscapes. Its value when used within formal lines, the tapis vert and terrace, are generally recognized. It is not far-fetched to say that grass is the most important planting material used in the creation of landscape in this climate.

Lawns and meadows provide color, texture, motion of the waving meadows, the play of light and the shadows of clouds and trees. The covering of grass over earth enhances the beauty of the contours and the modeling of the earth's surfaces—knolls, valleys, glades, and plains. The effects of space, breadth, dignity, and distant views are dependent upon the proper framing of open spaces with foliage. Indeed, open spaces, whether in the form of sea, lakes, or streams, lawns or meadows, sand-dunes or even paved spaces, are one of the most important elements in landscape design. C. F. Pilat.

Village improvement in relation to planting.

Village improvement is a branch of civic art. Civic art in turn may be defined as the conservation, improvement, and utilization of public property. Village improvement thus takes its place alongside of town-planning, country-planning, the development of garden cities, and other work of a similar nature. The public-property test may be rather strictly applied to all branches of civic improvement, including village improvement, for while village improvement does in fact undertake extensive work upon private grounds, this is undertaken solely in the public interest.

In village improvement it is rather important to fix attention upon the village or small town as a permanent unit. For the most part, the small towns of America have had notable ambitions for growth. Each one has intended to grow up into a state capital or a large manufacturing center. On this account it has been impracticable to make intelligent plans for the actual circumstances, that is for an indefinite period of existence without further expansion. The growth problem, while it is largely a psychological factor, is a very important one in connection with village life and development. It is a problem which should be seriously faced. Each community should understand its actual circumstances and its ambitions, if it is to make any real improvement in its condition.

Inasmuch as civic improvement is based upon public property, the scope of its work may be outlined rather strictly by the extent and character of property owned in any community. The more important types of public property, with some discussion of the problems attached to their improvement, are taken up herewith. The illustrations and plans (Figs. 2991-2996) suggest some of the important phases, particularly as related to planting.

Streets.—Streets and public roads constitute perhaps the most important mass of public property in each community. They are absolutely indispensable and have a very high monetary value judged by any scale whatever. Road and street improvement is always looked upon as a practical benefit to the community and may, therefore, naturally and properly become the starting-point of general village improvement. Street improvement should be studied with reference to (a) location, (b) design, (c) construction, (d) furnishings, (e) maintenance. (a) The location of streets and roads is generally looked upon as an inviolable accomplishment, yet many roads and streets can be, and should be relocated, or altogether abandoned. In other places new streets should be provided. (b) Some streets ought to be straight, some ought to be curved, some ought to be wide, some should be narrow. Some should be provided with wide grass verges, with rows of trees and with parkings. In other parts of the village, streets should have no such furnishings. In fact, each street should be made a study by itself, and should be properly designed
for its special conditions, (c) All streets, of course, should be well constructed. Macadam and tarvia are good materials. However, there are many streets which do not need such expensive improvement. The problems of street construction are generally fairly well studied, but of course, final and perfectly satisfactory results are never achieved, (d) Besides the trees in the street, there are many other things to be considered, such as guide-posts, letter-boxes, and especially telephone, electric-light, and trolley poles. All these furnishings should be made as satisfactory as possible. Especially in the matter of poles the ideal is to reduce their number to the minimum, (e) All streets need to be kept in good repair and to be kept clean. These are always important matters, but they cost considerably more care, labor, and money than most persons imagine. Village improvement can nearly always make considerable progress in this one point of keeping the streets clean and in good condition.

Transportation may be reckoned as the second great problem of village improvement. The development of attractive railroad station-grounds, by proper planting of trees, shrubs, and grass is a matter always to be looked after. In rural communities, at the present time, with the large development of trolley service, the design and location of first-class trolley waiting stations becomes a matter of great importance and should receive careful attention.

Schoolhouses and school-grounds constitute a very important type of public property, and every campaign of village improvement should look after them carefully. School-grounds should be kept clean and orderly and should have some tree plantings. Wherever possible there should be grass, but the improvement of school-grounds with flower-beds is almost out of the question. Perhaps the most insistent problem of the improvement of the school-grounds themselves, lies in securing adequate area, which should be from 2 to 5 acres for each school instead of the 1/4 acre commonly allowed.

Playgrounds are very much needed in every village and rural community. The problems connected with them are, (1) to secure the necessary allotment of land; (2) to have this ground properly planned and developed, (3) to have the play properly supervised. The embellishment will consist chiefly of large trees for shade and to improve the appearance. Flower-beds and borders are quite out of place on playgrounds.

Reservations of several sorts are needed in every village. These should be primarily for recreation, but should include also places of historic importance or those of great scenic beauty.

Public buildings, including churches, libraries, grange halls, town halls, and the like, must be of the best character in order to secure proper results in village development. All these public buildings should be studied with reference to adaptation to use, proper location, grouping with other public buildings, good architectural design, and substantial construction. The grounds about these public buildings should be developed to the best possible advantage. As a rule, shady lawns with good substantial trees give the best result.

Home-grounds are of prime significance in every community and every village-improvement society should undertake to secure the best treatment of them possible. Neighborhood competitions are useful to this end but sound horticultural instruction is always necessary.

The more strictly horticultural phases of village improvement, therefore, are the planting and care of trees, the development of grass areas, especially lawns, home-garden improvement with some emphasis upon front yards, and school-garden enterprises of several sorts.

In the care of trees on public streets and grounds, a competent tree-warden is greatly to be desired. When state legislation provides for such an officer he should be chosen with great care and supported with reasonable appropriations of public funds; and in states where tree-wardens are not provided for by law such legislation should be secured as soon as possible. The Massachusetts law is perhaps as good a pattern as any.

Street trees are subject to severe injuries even beyond the liability of other shade trees, such as the damage from leaky electric wires and gas-pipes, gnawing of horses, and sometimes the attacks of ignorant linemen putting up wires. Add to these the usual menace of insect attacks, such as elm leaf-beetle, leopard moth, forest caterpillar, gipsy moth, and the like, and it will be seen that the protection of valuable street trees is a real undertaking. (See Diseases and Inserts and Arboriculture.) The improvement of home-grounds and similar areas is treated elsewhere. (See Landscape Gardening.)

The peculiar agent of village improvement is the village-improvement society, but other organizations are equally useful. Woman's clubs and boards of trade are usually effective. Very often smaller groups which undertake to cover only a single street or a single small neighborhood accomplish the most intensive and satisfactory results. As a rule it is undesirable to form a new organization in any community for village improvement. It is better policy to seek the cooperation of the various existing societies. In certain circumstances these can be federated in a way to cover the problem satisfactorily.

Four factors must always cooperate in order to secure satisfactory results in civic improvement of any sort. These factors are (a) local initiative, (b) expert advice, (c) time, and (d) money, (a) It is always necessary to have some energetic local society or group of men and women who will stand behind any improvement proposition. Without this local initiative nothing can possibly be done, (b) In addition to this it is usually desirable and sometimes positively necessary to have work undertaken on the basis of practical plans drawn by experts from outside the community. The outside assistance is valuable even when no more expert than advice which might be secured within the community itself. Good plans are, however, always indispensable, (c) It then requires a considerable amount of time to carry out important improvement projects. It has been estimated that from six to ten years are always necessary in order to bring a community around to a proper understanding of its problems, and to secure sufficient unity of opinion to accomplish valuable results, (d) Money is very important, but not one-half so important as persons usually suppose. As a rule the money can be raised whenever the community is convinced, as a whole, that the proposed improvement is worth while. It is best under all circumstances to have public property paid for and improved from public funds. This means that the money should be voted by the people themselves from the public treasury. The ordinary way of raising money for village improvement, by raffles, fairs, and other voluntary means, is wholly unsatisfactory. It can accomplish only trivial results. Frank A. Waugh.

Shrubbery in the landscape.

Shrubs and bushes have two values: an intrinsic value as individual or single specimens; a value as part of the structure or design of an ornamented place. As individual specimens, they are grown for the beauty of the species itself; as parts of the landscape, they are usually grown in masses, constituting a shrubbery. It is often advisable to plant shrubs as single specimens, in order to produce the characteristic beauty of the species; but the temptation is to plant exclusively as isolated specimens, and the emphasis needs, therefore, to be placed on mass-planting.

Plants scattered over a lawn destroy all appearance of unity and purpose in the place (Fig. 2997). Every part of the place is equally accented. The area nas no meaning or individuality. The plants are in the way. They spoil the lawn. The place is random. If the shrubs are sheared, the spotted and scattered effect is intensified. Rarely does a sheared shrub have any excuse for existence, unless as a part in an artistically designed formal garden.

A mass or group of planting emphasizes particular parts of the place. It allows of bold and broad contrasts. It may give the place a feeling of strength and purposiveness. The shrubbery-mass usually should have an irregular outline and it often contains more than one species. Thereby are variety and interest increased. Fig. 2998 suggests the interest in a good shrubbery-mass. The shrubbery-masses should be placed on the boundaries; for it is a concept of landscape gardening that the center of the place shall be open. (Fig. 2999; also Figs. 2076, 2077, and others in Vol. IV.) The boundaries are the lines between properties, the foundations of buildings, the borders along walks and drives. Judicious planting may relieve the angularity of foundations and round off the corners of the yard. (Fig. 3000.) Individual specimens may be used freely, but only rarely should they be wholly isolated or scattered. They should be planted somewhere near the borders, that they may not interfere with the continuity of the place and that they may have background to set them off. The background may be a building, a bank, or a mass of foliage. In most places, the mass or border-planting should be the rule and the isolated specimen the exception; but, unfortunately, this rule is frequently reversed. It is not to be understood, however, that boundaries are always to be planted or that foundations are always to be covered. L. H. B.

The chief value of shrubbery comes from its use in an artistic way, although some shrubs have edible fruits. Many shrubs, such as lilacs, some of the spireas, gooseberries, and currants, produce leaves very early in the season and some, like forsythia, daphne, and the juneberry are covered with a profusion of blossoms at this time. From early spring until November in temperate latitudes leaves and flowers are to be found on deciduous shrubs, and from June until the following spring ornamental fruits can be seen on their branches, the red berries of the elder beginning and barberries ending the list. Some of these fruits are so richly colored and so abundant that they can be seen from a long distance. Many shrubs, like some of the viburnums and dogwoods, attain a height of 10 to 15 feet, while others, like bunch- berry and Daphne Cneorum, grow to a height of only a few inches. The leaves of some,
like the chokeberry, Thunberg's barberry, the hazels, viburnums, dogwoods, and sumachs are beautifully colored in autumn. The rhododendrons, laurels, and mahonias, and the daphne already named, are examples of shrubs having evergreen foliage. Some leaves, like those of the Salix lucida, are glossy; others, as those of the common hazel, are hairy; some are thick, and others are thin; some large, some small; some entire, and some lobed, serrated or compound. Throughout the season the foliage of a good collection of shrubbery will present the greatest variety of color, including all the hundreds of shades of green as well as yellow, white, gray, and purple. Even in winter shrubbery is wonderfully attractive in appearance from the gracefulness of its stems and branches, and from the color of its bark. With the right selections, it will serve almost as well as evergreens to shut out from view fences or other low unsightly objects.

This great variety in foliage, flower, fruit, and habit of growth makes shrubbery adapted to very extended use in the development of landscapes. It is especially appropriate along the boundaries of ornamental grounds (Fig. 2999), upon steep slopes, and in the immediate vicinity of buildings where foliage and graceful lines are needed to connect the walls of a structure with the ground (Fig. 3000), without making too much shade. It might with advantage replace the grass upon all surfaces too steep to walk upon with comfort. The foliage of shrubs that are well established remains green when dry weather turns grass brown. The broad mass of shrubbery will take care of itself when the grass needs frequent attention. Even some level surfaces might be improved in places by exchanging a lawn covering for the covering of low woody plants. Often a broad open space over a lawn is an important feature of a landscape, since it allows extended views. Many times a landscape would be more interesting if the green underneath this open space were produced by a broad mass of shrubbery, like a miniature forest, instead of grass.

In planting borders or groups of shrubs, the ground to be occupied by such a group should be entirely spaded over or plowed. Perhaps no better advice could be given than to prepare the soil as it should be prepared for a field of corn. The bushes should then be planted so that there is room for about two years' growth before their branches intermingle. If placed closer they would have a crowded appearance from the start and would not join their branches as harmoniously as when the new growth is allowed to choose its own position. If placed farther apart the effect is also bad. Occasionally a single shrub at the margin of a belt may stand out almost by itself, but generally the effect of a group should be that of a continuous mass of varying foliage.

In arranging different shrubs, the taller-growing kinds should generally be placed in the center of the group, and the lower species along the border, the space being graded from the highest to the lowest. The reason for this arrangement is that the lower plants would be killed by the shade of the larger ones if placed back of them, and moreover would not be seen; but one should avoid too uniform a slope. For example, in a continuous border there should be places where shrubs of larger size occupy the full width so as to bring growth of considerable height into the lawn. The arrangement should be varied so as to avoid all monotony, but in securing this variation a mixture of miscellaneous shrubs of all kinds does not give so good an effect as broader areas of single species or genera slightly interspersed at the margin with shrubs of another kind. Straight rows should be avoided. A laborer or a novice when told this will arrange the plants in a zigzag manner, thinking that he is placing them irregularly, the result often being almost the same as that of two rows. If the group is being planted along a straight line, as the boundary of a lot, the distances of the successive plants from this line might be somewhat as follows: 2 feet, 4 feet, 5 feet, 3 feet, 1 foot, and the distances apart, measured parallel with a fixed line, should vary also.

The ideal condition of a group of shrubbery is to have all the individual plants healthy, so that the foliage will appear fresh and of good color. This foliage should extend down to the surface of the adjacent lawn or walk, and shade the ground underneath so completely that nothing will grow there. The leaves which fall with the approach of winter should be allowed to remain as a perpetual mulch. The desired result cannot be secured the first year the shrubs are planted unless they are of large size and moved but a short distance. The aim in caring for a new plantation should be to secure thrifty plants, and this care, like the preparation of the soil, should be such as is given to a field of corn.

Very little trimming should be done. If a bush is tall and spindling it may be well to cut it off next to the ground and allow it to sprout again. If there is any dead wood it should, of course, be cut off. But when a shrub is healthy and vigorous, let it grow in its own graceful way. If it encroaches upon the walk, cut away the encroaching branch near the root so that the mark of the knife will not be noticed. Such treatment will help to retain the winter beauty of the branches.

The value of shrubbery is not appreciated, either as part in a landscape design or as furnishing for a place. In combination with trees and woods, it ties the planting together, providing easy gradations from greensward up to the tops of trees. Merely to relieve bareness, shrubs are of singular value, as in the suggestion in Fig. 3000, and again, even when slight in quantity, in Fig. 3001. The background in Fig. 3002 is brought down to the ground-line by greenery, mostly of shrub growth. The beauties of Fig. 3003 are in large part the shrub forms and colors, and the arrangement insures much of the general effect. The reader will find that most verdurous landscapes that please him will have their furniture of shrub and bush. O. C. Simonds.

Woods in the landscape.

The principal elements of landscape are atmospheric conditions, irregularities of the earth's surface, water, artificial constructions, herb and shrub ground-cover, and the woods. In the United States the great areas east, west, north, and south of the treeless prairie regions were mostly in evergreen or deciduous woods. Industries, habitation, and cultivation have divided the great wooded areas into small wood-lots and into forests that are for the most part broken into sprout- and tree-growth areas as the cordwood or timber is harvested in thirty- to sixty-year periods. The corresponding landscape modifications to that offered by this cutting of the forests is presented by homestead tree plantations that have broken the great unobstructed herb-covered prairie sweeps into series of tree-framed vistas. This offers a striking example of the importance of woods in landscape.

In the arid regions of the West, the woods are confined to a meager growth in places made moist by springs, streams, or by irrigation, to mountain slopes and valleys, and to the humid regions and mountain valleys of the Northwest. In this last section, the region of sequoias, pines, spruces, and firs, are the stateliest cone-bearing forests of the continent. The white and Norway pines of the Northeast and the long-leaf pine of the Southeast, only approach the Pacific Coast Range trees in grandeur.

As landscapes of the highest types of beauty include woods, and as wood has a high economic value, one should determine how best to save woods for their beauty and to set aside the areas that should be harvested. To fix upon areas to be kept in woods and those to be used for agriculture, industries, and habitation, economic surveys should be made of large areas. In such surveys land that is ill fitted for cultivation should be outlined and set aside in public reservation, with a view to maintaining it largely in forests. Land that is suitable for cultivation, habitation, and industries should be set aside for these purposes, and the forests stripped therefrom as the land is needed. This countryside planning is already being worked out in the study of city and county. The plans of the regions about Boston, Massachusetts, in Essex County, New Jersey, and Cook County, Illinois, and of such towns as Hopedale, Massachusetts, represent studies in which forest areas are set aside, in public reservations, and the forest growth encouraged thereon.

It is not to be assumed that such forests are without other economic values than the recreation they offer to many persons. It has been found possible in the development of such areas to increase the beauty of the forests and to secure a money-return that will nearly, if not quite, cover the cost of the cutting from the sale of forest-thinning products. It is likely that under wise management such forests can be constantly increased in beauty with little or no burden of cost.

In the areas that are assigned in the economic study of a region for other purposes than permanent forest holdings, the existing forest growth may often be continued for many years as the principal crop, or new forests may even be planted and grown before the time comes to cultivate the land in annual crops.

In the development of woods in landscape, the work can be performed in such a way as greatly to increase the beauty of the existing growth, which now is seldom the primeval growth, by thinning to develop the finest specimens and the finest groups of trees. A selection can abo be made in the cutting to increase the dominance of different species in different localities. Cutting may often be made to open vistas and wide views from particularly attractive viewpoints. It can also be made to develop more attractive sky-lines and foliage-masses as seen from valley viewpoints or from hilltop and ridges to distant hills and ridges.

The larger factors of beauty in landscape and the economic values of woods are of interest to the general public. To the individual owner of estates and home-grounds the woods have a more intimate and personal interest. Such owners are concerned about the protection against drifting snow, bleak wind, and hot sun, a shelter for the bird-life that protects the crops, a setting and a background for their home buildings to merge them into an agreeable landscape picture, a ramble and a picnic place where the wild flowers, the fruits, and the autumn leaves can te found by the children who love the woods. The wood-lot is also a place where many sticks of timber for special purposes and some cordwood will be secured in the cutting from year to year of the weaker trees that are overtopped by their neighbors, and from thinning that must be made if the highest types of woodland beauty are to be developed. Bear in mind that the wood-lot in good soil may produce a cord of wood to the acre each year.

Fortunate is the owner who has an established wood-lot, and especially if he appreciates and takes wise advantage of its utility and beauty. As woods would be included the thicket of few trees in the little town lot as well as the acres of trees on the large estates, because in the cool shade and leaf-mold soil of each the same plants and bird-shelters may be established. When there is no wood-lot one must plant either evergreen or deciduous trees to make one. If the home lot is a small one and it is desired to have a little wood-lot high enough to walk under at once, at reasonable cost, tall slender collected or nursery-grown trees may be planted close together and then thinned as they grow.

If a shelter-belt for winter is the most important consideration, use such cone-bearing evergreens as the pines, spruces, hemlocks, junipers, arbor-vitae, cypress, the last three for a narrow belt, or in the South and on the Pacific coast, such broad-leaved evergreens as the magnolia, eucalyptus, camphor tree.

It should be known that undergrowth and ground-cover plants with attractive flowers cannot be so easily established under evergreens as under deciduous trees; also that among the deciduous trees are more rapid-growing species with attractive flowers and fruit.

To grow a very interesting wood-lot in a few years from the small seedling plants that can be secured in large quantities at low cost, such plants would be set from 3 to 5 feet apart. At this distance they soon shade the ground so much with foliage as to kill out ordinary weeds and give encouragement to the more attractive woodland plants. Furthermore, close planting will force a rapid growth in height. In the selection of plants, about a third would be made up of the quick-growing low-cost species such as poplar, soft maple, negundo, catalpa, locust, and in warm sections the eucalyptus, pepper tree, grevillea. Another third would be made up of the slower-growing more permanent trees, such as oak, maple, and magnolia. The last third would be of such undergrowth, shrubs, and small trees as the flowering dogwoods, red-bud, benzoin, viburnums, white fringe, rhododendrons, azaleas, callicarpa, manzanita, and madrona. Woodland ground-cover plants may be established by bringing them in from the woods with an abundance of the natural leaf-mold soil retained about their roots.

The location for the wood-lot is at the point near the home buildings where it will best serve such purposes as are referred to early in this article, but as open land in this position is very valuable for farm uses the lot should not be large; elsewhere on the farm the wood-lot should occupy land least suited for annual crops, such as the very steep slopes and the rocky or barren areas.

Aside from woods themselves, tree forms have their special values in providing structural features in a landscape, combining well with architectural forms and affording good backgrounds and boundaries. Strip the trees from such constructions as shown in Figs. 3004 and 3005 and note the effect. Warren H. Manning.

Wild-gardening.

Wild-gardening is the art of arranging and growing colonies of hardy plants, native or foreign, so that they will look like wild flowers, multiplying with little or no care after planting. A wild-garden is not a garden that has run wild, reminding us of man's neglect; it is a poetic suggestion of the beauty of nature untouched by man. Beginners commonly suppose that wild- gardening is merely the cultivation of native flowers, as in a small border. Such an effort is worth while, but it is rarely artistic and can hardly be called wild-gardening. The main idea of the latter, originally, was to naturalize foreign flowers in larger masses than those of the garden. Wild-gardening is, therefore, a branch of landscape gardening which aims to reproduce the largest floral effects of nature with the least suggestion of man's interference.

The large facts in wild-gardening are: (1) the place or location for it; (2) the composition, as part of the landscape; (3) the kinds of plants; and (4) the small or incidental effects of clumps and nooks here and there. Fig. 3006 shows a wild-garden composition; ordinarily, a wild-garden is supposed to be merely "wild" or growing at random, as in Fig. 3007, and this effect is sometimes much to be desired. The nook or corner effect of planting (4) is shown in Fig. 3008, representing a rear screen.

Wild-gardening as a distinct department of floriculture first came into popularity about 1870, when "The Wild Garden" was written by William Robinson. Robinson's first aim was to introduce more variety into English gardens, which were monotonously gaudy in the Victorian era. Because of their greater showiness, tropical bedding-plants had driven hardy perennial flowers out of fashion. Robinson put the border on an artistic plane by paying more attention to grouping, color schemes, and new varieties; he popularized the rock- and water-garden; and he created the wild- garden. His second aim in wild-gardening was to reproduce some of the loveliest floral pictures of the North Temperate zone which demand freedom from the garden inclosure. A third aim was to make a place for thousands of plants worth growing that are banished from conventional gardens because they have small flowers, a short season, or are unsightly when out of bloom. A fourth aim was to satisfy the universal craving for wildness.

The areas most commonly used for wild-gardening are woods, meadows, and orchards. Unfortunately, orchards cannot usually be kept in grass for many years, as in Europe. Those who are the fortunate possessors of waterside, bluffs, rocks, or sandy wastes have special opportunities for wild-gardening. Those who are confined to city lots can merely suggest the spirit of wild- gardening in lawns and borders.

The finest effects in wild-gardening are suggested not by book-study but by nature-study, paying special attention to grouping and massing. For example, if the problem is to cover a bank, the books suggest locust, willows, or other suckering plants. The beginner then covers the bank exclusively with locusts or willows, which produces an artificial or gardenesque effect. Nature rarely adopts a one-plant solution of any problem. She generally grows three or four crops on the same ground, e.g., tree, shrub, and vine, or shrub, carpeting-plant, and bulb.

If one follows the nearest river-bank for a mile or so, the finest combination may be buckeye, wild goose-berry, and American bluebells, or sumach, blue phlox, and adder's-tongue. Such combinations always give more variety than one-plant solutions, generally more color, and look wilder because they represent a mode of living worked out by ages of struggle. When one combines roses, lilacs, and peonies on a sand-hill, the plants look unhappy, especially in August, but if one plants red cedar and bayberry the plants soon look as if they had been there from time immemorial. The skill of the wild-gardener lies in detecting plant associations that will solve each practical problem and look as if they were hundreds of years old.

In massing plants so as to imitate nature the commonest notion is to scatter them indiscriminately, but this is no longer considered the surest and quickest way to produce the finest effects. The showiest floral effect in nature is the solid mass or sheet of flowers of a single kind. But this is not the finest or wildest effect. William Robinson often takes the clouds as patterns in outlining his colonies. Clouds also suggest good combinations of density and thinness in sowing seeds or planting bulbs. One of the finest floral effects in nature is the kind of massing known as "the mother country and her colonies." The object is to suggest that the flowers have sprung from seed scattered by the prevailing wind. The outlying masses, therefore, follow one general direction (without being in straight lines), and they decrease in number, size, and density as they recede from the largest mass.

Design in wild-gardening.

In the woods one generally has the greatest opportunity for intensifying the feeling of wildness, because it is often possible to shut out all suggestion of the outside world—including even the sounds of civilization. Therefore, woods are generally surrounded by an irregular belt of native shrubs dense enough to hide artificial objects from the interior of the wood, leaving openings only for the main trails. The entrances can be marked without making them too gardenesque by saving or planting any trees that naturally form a good arch or frame, as white pine often does, by planting some accent marks, such as red cedar, arbor-vitae, canoe birch, and mountain-ash, or by training into a bower vines such as wild grape, clematis, bittersweet, or Virginia creeper. A system of trails is next established and the planting is usually made near the trails, from which the colonies are generally expected to spread gradually into the remoter parts of the wood. To secure the finest effects, however, it is necessary to plant the dramatic, or picturesque places, such as spring, brook, rocks, glades, hilltop, or outlook with the wild flowers appropriate to each situation. Wild-gardening in the woods is also known as landscape forestry.

In meadows it is possible to allow daffodil bulbs to multiply for many years, since they may not interfere with the hay crop. The foliage ripens and falls to the ground before harvest. Bulbs that bloom after harvest-time, like Lilium superbum, are best restricted to the edges of the meadow. But the sunny meadow generally offers the greatest canvas for painting floral pictures—daffodils by the 10,000 and narcissi either in sheets or colonies.

In fields, however, wild-gardening involves serious economic loss. Despite this fact, many efforts have been made to imitate the European grain-fields made glorious by Papaver Rhoeas, the scarlet annual weed which is the parent of the Shirley poppies. The seed is cheap but the poppies bloom in a half-hearted fashion and vanish after a year or two.

In permanent pastures wild-gardening is limited to species that are not eaten by cattle, and the effects are necessarily scattering or spotty. On a hillside at Gravetye, Robinson has naturalized the oriental poppy in isolated clumps of about a dozen plants. This is perhaps the most daring feat with which a wild-gardener may hope to succeed, for foreign flowers as gorgeous as this cannot pass themselves off as wild flowers. The distant effect, however, is very spirited, and the green background saves the effort from vulgarity.

On rocks the arrangement is largely determined by the position of soil-pockets large enough to grow plants. Soil can be added, but at great expense.

The waterside offers chances for unique effects, because the boldest tree-forms and colors have a mirror, shrubs may obscure the line where land and water meet, and amphibious plants, like the aquatic buttercup, may swim out a few feet. Also the grace of falling water can be suggested by shrubs with arching branches, or vines planted at the top of the bank. Some of the best colonies of wild flowers are those formed by seeds falling from the top of a bank.

In roadside planting, ideals have changed greatly since 1900. Then the standard of beauty was the shrub-lined roadsides of New England. That type is rapidly vanishing from the main roads, owing to the laws against the gipsy moth and the use of the stone walls for road-making. No two miles of roadside planting should be alike. There should be shrubs enough to bring back the birds; and wild flowers arranged and maintained according to the principles of wild- gardening.

On city lots, the wild-garden shrinks merely to a border of wild flowers but differs from the hardy border of mixed perennials. The latter is a conventional arrangement of flowers, mostly of foreign origin, selected for their showy forms, colors, and succession of bloom. The border of wild flowers may become an artistic wild-garden by directly imitating some natural effect, especially a local combination or plant association. For example, in the shady border the flood-plain may be recalled by hepatica, bloodroot, meadow rue, and trillium; the swamp by cinnamon and royal fern and marsh marigold; the ravine by Aster laevis and blue-stemmed goldenrod. In the sunny border the prairie may be recalled by cone-flowers, compass plant, and sunflowers; the swamp by boneset, joe-pye, and blue lobelia; the riverside by mist-flower (Eupatorium coelestinum) and sneezeweed; the dry roadside by butterfly weed and wild bergamot.

On city lots, also, the free meadow contracts into a close-cropped lawn, but the wild-gardening spirit is expressed in numberless attempts to naturalize crocuses and the March-blooming bulbs—snowdrop, Siberian scilla, and glory-of-the-snow. Unfortunately, they cannot ripen their foliage before the lawn must be mown, and therefore they die in a few years.

Plant materials.

There are three principles that grow out of the aim of wild-gardening, which is to grow self-supporting colonies that will look and act like wild flowers. (1) The esthetic principle is that all materials in landscape wild-gardening shall be primitive species or slightly improved varieties. This rules out all flowers that have been profoundly modified by man, such as double and round-petaled flowers of all kinds. Double daffodils thrive permanently in some meadows, but they do not look like wild flowers, as single daffodils do. May tulips and Darwins are permanent, but these also do not look like wild flowers, as do tulips with pointed petals. Cottage tulips look wilder than other late tulips, and the wildest of all is Tulipa sylvestris. The magnificent red flower, Tulipa Gesneriana, which somewhat resembles the prototype of garden tulips, is too gorgeous to look like a wild flower in the woods, but it might be used for distant effects in the meadow, if oriental poppy is considered permissible. (2) The cultural principle demands permanence in wild-gardening. Crocuses, early tulips, and hyacinths are too short-lived in long grass. English books and magazines illustrate exquisite effects in March and April made by winter aconite, European cyclamen, Grecian wind-flower, and Apennine anemone, but these are too tender or difficult for the American public to naturalize. (3) The economic principle requires that the materials of wild-gardening shall be cheap, for expensive varieties are instantly recognizable and look out of place. A good rule is to pay not more than 1 or 2 cents a bulb for daffodils by the 1,000 or 500. There are twenty to thirty varieties that can be had at this rate, and they fit the woods and meadows better than the varieties that cost 3 or 4 cents a bulb.

Foreign species offer greater temptations for display than native kinds. The danger line is that between the garden and wild-garden. This has already been indicated for daffodils, which are the unquestioned favorites for wild-gardening. Dutch hyacinths are inappropriate in long grass, and they soon perish. The Roman hyacinth looks more like a wild flower, but it is better to plant English bluebells or wood-hyacinths, known to the trade as Scilla nutans and S. hispanica, and the prairie hyacinth, Camassia esculenta. In addition to the foreign species commended, the lemon lily (Hemerocallis) is also adaptable, as its foliage harmonizes with long grass. This species looks much better beside the water than the orange day lily, which is better suited to the roadside. The most beautiful group for the water-side, probably, is the genus Iris. The famous iris meadow of the Royal Horticultural Society at Wisley, which has inspired much American wild-gardening since 1908, is a standard for combining the maximum of splendor with good taste. There is no difficulty in making the Siberian iris look wild, or the tall yellow iris of Europe, but the German and Japanese must be used with restraint, if at all.

It is safer to use large masses of native varieties than of foreign ones, but it is easy to overdo bee-balm, New England aster, butterfly weed, blue flag, and purple cone-flower, unless they are softened by shade, mellowed by distance, or veiled by long grass. Other American plants that are generally easy to manage on a large scale are marsh marigold, large-flowered trillium, wild blue phlox, spiderwort, Lilium superbum, boltonia, sneezeweed, sunflower, swamp rose mallow, and cardinal flower.

The ideal in the planting and after-care of a wild-garden is to betray no evidence of man's work. In planting bulbs, a good way is to scatter them on the ground, arranging them with the feet in cloud-like outlines containing about fifty bulbs, and then plant them where they lie, using a dibber or bulb-planter when the ground has been softened by the rains. Another method is to cut three sides of a sod with a spade, raise the grass, and insert five to seven bulbs at irregular distances. In the border the common unit of planting is a dozen plants; in the wild-garden fifty is a good unit. This is about the minimum that can be called a colony.

Wild-gardening was formerly considered essentially cosmopolitan in its spirit, as it still is in England. In America, however, wild-gardening commonly means the cultivation of American wild flowers, and the number of pure American compositions has greatly increased. Over $6,000,000 worth of work done in the Middle West since 1901 has been inspired by the idea of restoration.

Gardening within an inclosure is a matter of personal privilege, but wild-gardening has developed a distinct code of ethics, due largely to the Wild Flower Preservation Society of America and walking clubs, like the Appalachian and Prairie, that do not permit their members to pick flowers, and a growing appreciation of wildlife. Wilhelm Miller.

Bog-gardening.

Bog-gardening depends for success on the distinction between bogs and other wet or swampy places (Vol. I, p. 519). In the marsh or swamp, drainage is usually fairly regular and free; in the true bog, drainage is practically lacking or free only during the spring thaw. Because of this lack of drainage there is in all bogs an accumulation of sourness in the bog-water, which is strongly acid and dark-colored in some glacial potholes, more moderately so in some of the partly drained bogs of the coastal plain regions of the country. There is usually, but not always, a deficiency of lime in bog-soils, and in nature there is a very large percentage of mycorrhizal plants in them. The relation of the mycorrhizal habit of obtaining food and the acidity of the bog is a very delicate and complex one and little is actually known of it; but experience has shown such a relation to exist.

The reason for having a bog-garden is that in it many very interesting plants may be grown that could not thrive in any other situation, and many ordinary swamp plants can also be grown along its edges. For those who have an undrained area or one poorly drained, the problem of having a bog-garden almost solves itself. But the demands of others who wish to grow the many beautiful species that will become naturalized only in such places, has led to the construction of artificial bogs. These may be of any size from a few square feet to comparatively large areas, and methods of construction must vary according to the nature of the subsoil. In places where there is a layer of hard-pan and the downward drainage is poor, it will be necessary only to dig out the desired amount, fill in enough blue clay to make the basin water-tight and then put in the mixture described below.

A more permanent and satisfactory type of construction is to make the basin of concrete, the walls and floor of which should not be less than 6 to 8 inches thick, to prevent the concrete from cracking during frost. Waterproof the concrete, and it is best to smear clay over the walls and bottom because in all concrete mixtures there is lime. The completed bog, whether of concrete or merely scooped out of the ground, should be 2 feet deep, its edges practically flush with the surrounding ground. If of concrete, sods will easily grow over it and the hard line of the rim may thus be completely hidden. One should be sure, before filling with the mixture, that the tank is water-tight, as though it were for a lily-pond. The shape of the structure, whichever type of construction is used, must be a matter of individual taste. While informality is the essence of bog-gardening, a "regular irregularity" is most to be fought against. Observation of natural bogs, their shapes and shorelines, will put the imaginative bog-gardener in possession of all the suggestions needed. As an important feature, it should be remembered that the drainage from the surrounding region should be all in, not out.

The mixture to go in the bog-garden is preferably one that has come out of a cranberry or natural bog,— muck, twigs, water, slime and all. From such a mixture, a host of very interesting bog-plants will spring up the first year and these may be isolated in clumps after the first season. A good plan when following this procedure is to let the inner part of the bog run wild, clearing a strip of a foot or two all around the edges for the cultivation of species needing, for exhibition purposes, more open spaces. Provision should be made, either in this strip or in any other open place in the bog for: (1) a place where only sand and peat soil, mixed about half and half, is found, to be used for certain plants that are described in the lists following; and (2) some small space of practically open water where the very interesting bladder-worts may be grown. The latter situation can be made by scooping out the muck for a few inches, filling in with sand and peat soil, leaving about 5 to 6 inches depth of water. For those who cannot secure muck from natural bogs, a soil may be mixed of leaf-mold, sand, and twigs and leaves of the oaks or of mountain laurel or rhododendron refuse. One should guard against getting the mixture too heavy and clayey. Sand and plenty of twigs and leaves of the species mentioned will lighten up the mixture,—leaf-mold makes it more heavy.

The management of the bog-garden requires some skill and observation. As the amount of evaporation from the surface is enormous, water must be added, either artificially or naturally. Strive to keep the bog just full enough not to overflow, thus keeping the whole sponge wet, but preventing the leaking out of the valuable acids that are the life of the bog. Both for the effect and for the good of the bog, it is desirable to cover all the open spaces in it with live sphagnum moss, which when once established, will make a delightful carpet.

Plants for the bog-garden.

Many bog-plants are very showy and worthy of cultivation. Others, such as the insectivorous kinds, are among the most wonderful plants in nature, for they have the unique distinction of being able to digest animal matter directly, a habit otherwise unknown in the realm of vegetable life. In the following account of bog-plants many are necessarily omitted, and it should be remembered that a number of purely swamp species, not mentioned here, can also be grown in bogs.

I. Shrubs.

Rhodora (Rhododendron canadense), purple flowers before the leaves in April and May; 3 to 5 feet.
Swamp azalea (Rhododendron viscosum), white or pink flowers after the leaves in May or June; 5 to 8 feet.
Sheep-laurel (Kalmia angustifolia), purplish pink flowers, summer; 1 to 2 feet; also Kalmia polifolia in northern regions.
Leather-leaf (Chamaedaphne calyculata), small whitish flowers along one side of the branches, May; 1 to 2 feet.
Labrador tea (Ledum groenlandicum), white flowers in terminal clusters; leaves russet-brown below; 2 to 5 feet.
Wild rosemary (Andromeda polifolia), drooping white flowers, early spring; leaves silvery below; under 2 1/2 feet.
Creeping snowberry (Chiogenes hispidula), prostrate, with tiny white flowers and snow berries; leaves dark, evergreen.

There are many others, but these are the best for the temperate regions of the United States. In the South many others are to be found.
II. Perennials, grown chiefly for their flowers.
In any open part of the bog.
Calla palustris, a greenish flowered water arum having a conspicuous white spathe; showy and hardy.
Acorus Calamus, sword-shaped leaves and a finger-like flower-cluster; the root is the medicinal calamus.
Viola lanceolata, a delicate, very free-flowered violet with lance-shaped leaves.
Asclepias lanceolata, a deep red milkweed, very showy, and with smooth narrow leaves.
Potentilla palustris, the purple marshlocks, a sprawling rather rank bog-plant with purple flowers.
Penthorum sedoides, greenish yellow flowers in curved spikes in summer; native plant, probably not in the trade.
Orontium aquaticum, the golden-club, very early flowering, making a patch of gold in March or April.
Menyanthes trifoliata, with three-divided leaves and many conspicuous white flowers; the buck-bean is a valuable addition.
Helonias bullata, flowering in April to May; the swamp pink is our most conspicuous spring flower.
There are many asters, goldenrods, and eupatoriums that grow in bogs, as well as some gentians, but the bog species must be collected from the wild.
In wet sandy places.

Here must be grown all the species of Xyris or yellow-eyed grass, curious plants with long, delicate, grass-like leaves and tiny heads of yellow flowers. Also species of Eriocaulon or bunch-flowers should be grown here. They are not large, have sword-shaped leaves and white erect heads not unlike the everlastings. With these two must go the meadow-beauty, different species of Rhexia with beautiful purplish red flowers. The common R. virginica is the hardiest and easiest to procure.

All the plants in this class and the following are to be secured from dealers in bog-plants or collected in the wild. There are others such as Lophiola, Narthecium, and Zyadenus.

In open water.
The bladder-worts are different species of Utricularia, some with purple and some with yellow flowers, some floating on the surface and supported by air-bladders, others rooting near the edges of the pool. They are the most interesting and delicate of all bog species.

III. Bog Orchids.

Many native orchids can be grown only in bogs, and from them the following have been selected, as the most noteworthy. All are perennials and may be secured from the dealers.
Calopogon pulchellus, pink-purple flowers about an inch in diameter, June and July; leaves grass-like.
Cypripedium parviflorum, a small-flowered yellow lady's slipper; raise up so that the roots will not be too wet.
Cypripedium spectabile (C. reginae or C. hirsutum), showy lady's slipper; beautiful rose-purple or nearly white flowers; better for a little shade.

Habenaria blephariglottis, a white-fringed orchid with a showy spike; 1 to 2 feet; does splendidly in the open sun.
Habenaria ciliaris, yellow fringed orchid; very showy spike; 1 to 1/2 feet.
Arethusa bulbosa, beautiful purplish pink flowers, about the last of May; 3 to 6 inches.
Spiranthes cernua, white, slender spikes; the ladies-tresses; several others, even more slender species are known.

Besides these are over forty other species which may be collected by the enthusiast. Nearly all of our most beautiful native orchids are bog-flowers. Most of them can be grown in pure live sphagnum moss.

IV. Insectivorous Plants.

Grown more for their peculiar habits of getting food and for their odd form than for beauty. They are of several types; some catch insects in a tube-shaped leaf, drowning them at the bottom of the cup, others have sticky hair to which the insect becomes fastened, and the most wonderful of all, the dionaea, actually traps its food by a contraction of its jaw-like, prickly leaves. The best insectivorous bog-plants are as follows:

With pitchers.

Sarracenia purpurea, having short purplish red pitchers, quite hardy northward, but not easy to maintain in an artificial bog.
Sarracenia rubra, the red trumpet-leaf, with tall pitchers; does very well in artificial bog.
Sarracenia flava, also with tall pitchers but yellow.
Sarracenia Drummondii, with variegated pitchers, the largest and most showy of all.
The last three must be taken in during the winter, north of Washington, D. C.; all of them grow rapidly and, if the season is favorable, will color up beautifully.
With sticky hairs.
All the species of Drosera have the curious habit of catching and digesting insects. They are all small plants which should be planted in masses on sphagnum moss. All native species are quite hardy and many can be secured from dealers in bog-plants. D. rotundifolia is the best; and D. capensis is a good species, but hardy only South.

With contracting leaves.

The Venus fly-trap, a low perennial with two valve-like leaves that contract whenever an insect or other irritation comes between them. Closing up rather rapidly these leaves are among the most interesting objects to see in the bog-garden. Not hardy north of Washington, D. C.

The darlingtonia, a Califqrnian insectivorous plant allied to the eastern sarracenia, can be grown along the Atlantic coast only with protection, but south of Washington it should be hardy. One of the most striking bog-plants. See Vol. II, page 964. N. Taylor.

Water-gardening.

Water-gardening is the cultivation of water-lilies and the other aquatic plants, those that grow in water rather then in bogs or wet soil, particularly those that have floating parts.

Water-gardening is such a special form of plant-growing that it should be attempted only in the personal parts of the grounds, and where all the conditions of control can be secured. The species formerly known were mostly collected from tropical climates and were adapted almost exclusively for warm greenhouse culture and were to be found solely in botanic gardens and homes of the wealthy. However, the idea that our central Atlantic states were sufficiently warm to grow
some of the tropical varieties out-of-doors in summer was tested in the early eighties of last century by the successful flowering out-of-doors without artificial heat of a plant of Victoría regia.

For many years the aquatic gardens in Lincoln Park, Chicago, the Shaw Botanic Garden in St. Louis, Missouri, the New York Botanical Garden at the Bronx, and Prospect Park, Brooklyn, as well as in other cities, have paved the way for the advancement of this popular and most interesting phase of gardening.

But it was not until Latour-Marliac, of France, conceived the idea of crossing species of the hardy nympheas of the United States, notably the southern species N. mexicana (N. flava) and N. tuberosa (Fig. 3009, from G. F.), that a great impetus was aroused in the cultivation of water-lilies. The cost of maintaining a high temperature for the cultivation of the tropical lilies, besides the necessity of having a glass structure and water-tight tanks, cisterns, and so on, seemed still to impress the public generally that it was too costly to construct artificial pools and fountain basins. The products of Latour-Marliac found a ready market in England and as rapidly as he introduced a new hardy water-lily the more enthusiasm was aroused and the more the demand increased; and their popularity naturally spread to the United States. See also the discussion under Nymphaea.

It has been demonstrated that water-lilies can be grown successfully in the United States; not only the hardy varieties and the hybrids but the tender tropical nympheas, the victorias, the Egyptian and Japanese lotus are to be seen, during our summer season.

Many gardens and plantings of water-lilies and aquatic and subaquatic plants are too stiff and formal. Nothing is so inartistic as regular lines on the margins of some ponds and again of crowding too many varieties in one small pond. Natural planting is in masses and groups, and single plants are admissible only in small ponds or artificial basins in small and limited gardens.

Since it is found that reinforced concrete is the simplest means of construction and that water-tight and frost-proof receptacles can be secured at moderate expense, water-gardening is rapidly developing. Also the number of species has so rapidly increased that it is no longer difficult to select water-lilies for a miniature garden, tubs, small pools, fountain basins, ponds, and lakes; also for all seasons of the year, as it has been demonstrated that these charming flowers can be had in the depth of winter.

For the small garden where there is but a limited space, a miniature artificial stream terminating in a small pool could be constructed; on either side of this streamlet may be planted moisture-loving plants such as calamus, calthas, Calla palustris, rushes of various kinds, menyanthes, sagittarias, lobelias (cardinal flower), Myosotis Scorpioides, and iris in variety; and in the pool the miniature water-lily, Nymphaea tetragona (N. pygmaea) (white) and Nymphaea tetragona helvola (yellow). This style of water-garden can be carried out on a much larger scale where space will permit and a much larger collection of subaquatic and moisture-loving plants can be used as well as more nympheas and of larger dimensions.

Water-gardening on a small scale can be most successfully carried out with the use of tubs, half-barrels sunken in the ground, two, three or more placed as thought best. In the rear of the tubs plant Japanese iris, flags, and moisture-loving plants, making a pleasing background, and between the tubs if ground can be kept moist, parrot's feather (Myriophyllum proserpinacoides), or Myosotis scorpioides (M. palustris), or Lysimachia nummularia, or dwarf trailing plants. For tub culture nympheas of moderate growth are preferable. N. Laydekeri var. rosea and N. Laydekeri var. lilacea are both charming varieties of pink rosy lilac, changing to rose and carmine, very free flowering. There are several other nympheas of moderate growth and pleasing shades of color suitable for tub culture. Many persons make serious mistakes by selecting strong and vigorous plants suited only for large ponds or even lakes. The plants may live and be very thrifty but will not flower.

A better and very satisfactory water-garden for a small place can be had by constructing a concrete pool 4 to 5 feet, or any size desired, bearing in mind that a large pool in a small garden is inconsistent. A pool or basin 4 to 5 feet in diameter and 2 feet deep will accommodate three nympheas. The surroundings may be similar as recommended for tubs, but no two gardens are alike.

Other aquatics may be found under the genera Alisma, Aponogeton (Ouvirandra), Azolla, Brasenia, Butomus, Cabomba (Fig. 3010), Ceratopteris, Eichhornia, Elisma, Elodea, Euryale, Hottonia, Hydrilla, Hydrocharis, Hydrocleis, Lemna, Limnobium, Limnocharis, Ludwigia, Myriophyllum, Nelumbo, Nuphar, Nymphoides (Limnanthemum), Pistia, Potamogeton, Riccia, Ricciocarpus, Sagittaria, Salvinia, Utricularia, Vallisneria. See also the articles, Aquarium, Aquatics, Nymphaea, Victoria; also Bog-gardening, page 2666. William Tricker.

Subtropical-gardening.

Under this denomination are included all those gardening effort« that aim to introduce into cool or cold climates the plant forms and the foliar luxuriance of tropical and semi-tropical regions. The subtropical garden may be permanent if it is under glass; but the term is usually employed to denote the summer effects secured by transferring glasshouse plants to the open and combining them in such a way as to produce a harmonious composition. It is not often that an approach to real tropical effects can be made in a northern garden, and yet it is well to have these effects in mind; Figs. 3011, 3012, reduced from Garden and Forest, show real tropical vegetation.

Subtropical plants are represented by the lush-leaved caladiums and cannas, the brilliant-colored foliage of crotons and dracenas, the towering plumes of palms, the succulent leaf or stem of century plant or cactus, and the dense rank ground-cover of selaginellas and todeas. The interest in such plants is chiefly in the foliage, rather than in the flowers. In the plant groups they stand at the opposite extreme from the rock-garden plants with tufts, cushions, and mats of miniature foliage that in the blossoming season are nearly covered with flowers, and thin films of mosses, lichens, and algae on the rock and earth surface. The subtropical plants of each of the climatic regions of the United States are usually from a warmer region, although natives having a like character may well be used in outdoor planting. The fibrous-rooted exotics, such as palms and tree ferns, are grown in greenhouses for the full year, either in permanent beds or in pots and tubs. The larger and more perfect the specimen, the greater its value. Usually in such a collection of plants under glass there are numerous species each
represented by one or a few plants, all grouped together in a crowded mass. Such a collection is not a subtropical garden and does not represent the most effective use of the material.

The potted plants that have foliage tough enough to withstand summer winds and sun, such as palms; cycas, ficus, and crotons, are often used in the garden in summer, or under the protection of trees, as subtropical beds or garden compartments. Each plant is valued for itself, just as it is in the greenhouse in winter, size and perfection of form being its chief attractions. Each has no relation to the foliage about it, except that its unusual character of leaf and growth makes a striking contrast to the normal native vegetation. For this kind of planting a few well-grown specimens give the desired summer appearance to the garden.

One of the very best of indoor subtropical gardens in America is the tropical house at Garfield Park, Chicago, where a comparatively few species, such as the tree-fern overhead and selaginellas as a ground-cover, are used in large numbers to make bands of foliage to arch paths and hide the glass roof, and to frame in vistas to glimpses of water, with carpets of green below. Here is a consistent and exquisite example of subtropical-gardening, the dominant note is light with the artificial construction that supports and protects it all, so cleverly disguised as to make it appear like a real glade in the tropics. There is an effect of airy lightness to it all that is a thrilling surprise as one passes in from the snows of winter out-of-doors. Equally as distinctive and effective results would be secured by the use of such greenhouse vines as tacsonia, allamanda and bougainvillea, or by the use of the somber greens of ficus.

In the open air, the use of palms, tree ferns, dracenas, crotons, caladiums, and ficus for summer decoration is not widespread. On large estates and in parks that can boast of greenhouses, a group planting of these subjects in the summer in the open is often to be found. In this case the outdoor use of the plants is more or less for the good of the plants and therefore little care or study is given to the grouping. The plants are "turned out to pasture" to rest up from the strenuous winter and stiffen their stems and roots for another year. Their winter appearance is their main purpose. Sometimes, especially in parks and botanic gardens, the plants are grouped by family or ecology, as a succulent group, desert group, or palm group, keeping closely to their winter arrangement under glass, more to put them under somewhat natural conditions for their best growth that they may require less personal attention from the gardener, than from a desire for any definite landscape effects.

The nearest approach in the United States (outside the very southernmost parts) to the tree-like palm vegetation of the tropics and sub-tropics is in the palmetto (Fig. 3013; also Fig. 3516, Vol. VI), which is native as far north as North Carolina, and is very useful as a decorative plant.

The smaller-growing subtropical plants are much used in the production of the most studied designs in planting, namely, in the construction of floral patterns, the very precise designs of city seals and the emblems of the many secret orders, "floral signs," and rarely, as in Regent Park, London, in the making of floral clocks. In these plantings, use is made of celosias, alternantheras, coleus, and echeverias and other tender succulents. This use of plants is decidedly on the wane on private estates and in the larger parks, for it has not now the sanction of fashion for the making of permanent seasonal garden features, but it has a value as display in horticultural or other exhibitions as a temporary affair, showing gardeners' ingenuity.

One great use of individual subtropical plants in pots has been in formal gardens as decorative adjuncts. These are then distinct garden features, garden accessories of rank similar to statuary and special flowerbeds. For such effects, large "orangeries were maintained in the great day of the formal garden in Italy and France, and the use of such plants has been retained in our elaborate gardens today.

In park planting, the use of subtropical plants often produces pleasing pictures, but only when the entire surroundings are very artificial and refined. Since the final character of a finished planting is based solely upon the foliage mass, plants of the same character only should be used in the separate plantings. The most natural effect is gained when the plants are grown in the ground, either with the pots plunged or planted directly in the soil. For this purpose the plants must be given conditions under glass to keep them alive all winter, but not necessarily in active growth, or kept in a dormant condition in pits, or stored as tubers. Plants for this purpose may be thus grouped—the taller woody plants to give height of green foliage to the group, low tender flowering herbs to give color from leaf or flower, and bulbous plants for bold leafage or bright flowers as fillers among the foliage plants.

Plantings of this kind involve considerable yearly cost for storage of potted plants or tubers, and great expense of annual planting and digging. Then there is a comparatively short season of foliage and flowers, from the time that the semi-dormant vegetation gets under way in July until cut down by early frosts. Yet effects not otherwise to be secured by plant materials can be given gardens and parks in this way. This is a use of tender plants that will be greatly developed in the future, by park super-intendents and owners of large estates who have the courage to break away from the usual specimen or jumbled planting, and make real garden pictures. There is very little of this kind of gardening as yet. The temporary tropical foliage of our summer gardens is much more effectively used today than it was a few years ago, but the problem must be studied more carefully before the best possible use is made of this material.

The ideal subtropical garden gives in a small compass the feeling of the wonder and luxuriance of the vegetation of the tropics, and suggests some of its pictures, whether under great glass roofs or in the open ground in the summer. Warren H. Manning.

Plants for the seaside.

Very distinctive types of American scenery are to be found along our seashores. The very dark green mangrove thickets come to the salt-water's edge on the Florida and the Gulf coasts with a backing of savannas of tall grasses, fringes, and islands of palms, and gloomy thickets of cypress trees draped heavily with the hanging gray moss-like tillandsias. Farther north on the Atlantic coast are great hills and sweeps of sand-dunes, constantly shifting, overwhelming the stunted growth of pine, cedar, oak, and maple. Here the sand-reeds push out their long fingers of undergrowth and root-fibers to hold the sand in place, and they establish conditions for shrubs of huckleberry, rose, deciduous holly,

baccharis, and iva, and give protection to the young forest trees. Along the rock-bound New England coast are wind-swept compact masses and distorted individuals of cedar, pitch and Norway pine, corresponding in a way to the similar Monterey pine and cypress of the Lower California shore. With the pines and oaks of New England are maple and shad-bush with ground- cover thickets of bayberry, rose, beach plum, huckleberry, and baccharis, and compact evergreen mats of bearberry, crowberry, and hanging curtains of the prostrate juniper over faces of ledges. In the salt-marshes are great patches of the rich green sedges, and in the flats the brilliantly colored samphires.

The main thing to be considered in the development of this native growth is to let it alone when it is well established. On the drifting sands of the dunes and plains of the seashore, plantations of the beach- grasses are made and protected as well as plantations of pines and shrubs. In California certain lupines and acacias have been successful, together with the reed, in holding the drifting sand.

There are two kinds of seaside planting: the adaptation of the usual species used in the lawn and garden to seashore conditions for effects like the usual refined planting; the other the planting for definite seaside effects by the almost exclusive use of typical maritime flora. This second kind of seashore planting is rarely attempted, as natural seaside pictures are hard to imitate. The problem as usually conceived is one of finding plants that will endure seaside conditions.

The tidal marshes are always fully planted by nature, and man can add little to good purpose. In sheltered bays, especially where the soil is good, the existing flora usually differs little from that common to the region inland, and it is no great problem to add to it. Even on the most exposed sites there is a low herbage and stunted undergrowth while a few picturesque wind-twisted trees give special distinction to the landscape. Even evergreen trees are often found near the shore-line, and the black spruce on the Maine coast, pitch pine and red cedar in southern New England, Jersey pines on the sand-barren coast of the middle states, and farther south bald cypress, until this gives way to the tropical palmetto and mangrove.

Given partial shelter near the taller woody plants, many low shrubs and herbs may be grown near the seacoast. There are many showy natives in the maritime flora and many more may be brought from Europe, though few have been tried as yet. The salt in the soil or water is rather a minor factor to many plants. More important to their welfare is the light sandy or heavy clay soil on the seashore above the tide-line. For the woody plants, the great factor is the high wind which stunts the branches and foliage. Though the winds are high, yet the temperature is more even and usually higher than at the same latitude inland. This is a favorable factor.

Since the sheltered nooks are not at all difficult to plant, it is on the exposed sites where the soil is poor that the problem is usually specially considered. If the soil is wet just above the tide-line, the beaches need no planting to hold the soil in place. When the soil is light and dry and shifts with the wind, not only is root- hold for the plants difficult, but the wind-driven sand cuts the twigs and foliage. It is here, where wind and wave meet, that several grasses do good work in holding the shifting sand in place until larger-growing plants can get a foothold. Two good sand-binders are the beach-grass (Ammophila arenaria) and sea lyme- grass (Elymus arcnarius). These can be set out as small plants or the seeds sown upon the sand. Immediately branches or heavy straw should be thrown on to hold the sand for a time until the grass takes hold. When these tall grasses are established, they may be reinforced by lower tufted grasses, such as festuca and stipa.

Immediately back of this line of exposure should

begin the shelter-belt of trees and shrubs. This would consist of quick-growing trees, such as some of the willows, poplars, locusts, and some of the native cherries (Prunus serótina, P. pennsylvanica, P. virginiana, and the like). These are to be followed by more permanent material, such as the stiff thick-growing thorns and native crab-apples, and the species of oaks and other native forest trees that will live in light soil. Trees with large or compound foliage are to be avoided. Several coniferous evergreen trees thrive in conditions close to the salt-water, particularly the white spruce, pitch pine, red cedar, and their geographical relatives. A great many trees, even the sturdiest natives, cannot thrive under extreme conditions along the seashore.

Beneath the partial shelter of groups of trees, a great many shrubs will thrive under the handicap of sand and salt and wind. Particularly worthy of note are such common shrubs as Baccharis halimifolia, Lycium halimifolium, Ligustrum vulgäre, Shepherdia canadensis, Hippophae rhamnoides, Salix viminalis, Rhamnus Frángula, Cornus paniculata, Rhus copallina, and the like, and among the beach-grasses Prunus pumila, P. marítima, Myrica carolinensis, Cytisus scoparius, and the

species of Tamarix. To tie the shrubs together, several vines, as the native species of grapes, celastrus, and smilax, are very useful.

For details of color, masses of native or exotic perennial herbs may be grown. In dry soil select some of the species of Armeria, Sedum, Lathyrus, Asclepias, Liatris, Silène, Statice, Opuntia, and so on. In wet soil try the native species of Hibiscus, Iris, Acorus.Thalictrum, Lythrum, Solidago, and their near exotic relatives. The splash of salt-water is often fatal to many annuals, but those hardy annuals that like light warm soils, as portulaca and the Shirley poppy, will give masses of bright summer color. In the planting of herbs, there would be no special soil- preparation, or after-care, as refined garden effects are here out of place.

Three distinct purposes are served by a judicious seaside planting: shelter from strong winds to benefit the crops and man, checking of shore erosion and sand movement, and definite landscape effects. One should not so much strive to secure gardenesque effects but rather to intensify the natural features of the landscape.

Examples of successful seashore planting are numerous along the coast of New England where summer colonies of the wealthy have been established, parts of Long Island, and in many places along the coast of the Middle Atlantic states. The first work in seaside planting in this country was to prevent shore erosion, and from this work have developed the further uses for shelter and landscape effect. The problem of the shores of the Great Lakes is very similar, and much excellent

work has been undertaken along the shore of Lake Michigan, just north of Chicago. A consistent plan for the development of this particular shore has been advocated.

There are few books devoted wholly to the problem of seashore planting, and much experimenting is yet to be done. See "Seaside Planting of Trees and Shrubs," by Alfred Gaut (England) and "Gardens Near the Sea," by Alice Lounsberry. Warren H. Manning.

Succulent plants and their culture.

Succulents are fleshy plants of many kinds, but forming a cultural group well known as such to gardens. They are grown mostly for their striking or grotesque usually condensed form, and not for the verdurous character of foliage and spray; and some of them are notable for their showy bloom.

This aggregation of plants is comprised of genera and species of several very remotely related families. Cactacea, perhaps, contains the largest number of genera and species belonging to this group, although not all members of the family are strictly succulent in habit. Next in point of number is undoubtedly Amaryl- lidaceae, represented by Agave and Furcraea, with Euphorbiaceae as a close third, represented almost wholly by the great genus Euphorbia, although a few species of Pedilanthus are to be included. Crassulaceae comprises a large number of genera and species, nearly all of which are succulent in habit of growth, although comparatively few genera are common in cultivation. Conspicuous among these crassulaceous things may be listed Bryophyllum, Cotyledon, Crassula, Echeveria, Kalanchoe, Sedum, and Sempervivum. In Asclepiadaceae; the group is represented chiefly by Stapelia, . although, to a limited extent, one finds in cultivation representatives of Caralluma, Ceropegia, Duvalia, Echidnopsis, and Heurnia. Bromeliaceae gives two genera, Dyckia and Hechtia. Liliaceae contributes Aloe, Apicra, Gasteria, Haworthia, and a comparatively small number of species of Yucca. The great family of Compositae has representatives in a section of the genus Senecio. By some authors this group of senecios is considered as having generic standing under the name Kleinia.

In their wild forms, succulents are native to widely separated geographical areas, for the most part being indigenous to the arid or semi-arid regions of Asia, Africa, North and South America, and the West Indies. They have this in common, however, that the climatic and soil conditions of these remote habitats are comparable and such as to induce just the characteristic growths that these plants exhibit. For this reason they are usually brought together, in cultivation, and given the same or very similar treatment.

The use of succulents.

Many of the succulents are very attractive and ornamental grown either as single specimens, in groups of one class, or when different genera and species are brought together in mixed planting. For the most part the agaves are too large and bulky to be used to advantage other than as single specimens and a few species are not uncommonly employed in this way. Among these may be mentioned Agave picta, the variegated forms of A. americana, A. atrovirens, and A. Milleri. They are commonly grown in tubs to facilitate handling. Thus treated, they are housed in winter and in summer are placed in some favorable location on the lawn. Some of the best yuccas are hardy as far north as New England and the lake region. Yucca filamentosa. Y. gloriosa, and Y. glauca have received considerable attention. They are attractive as single specimens, in small groups on the lawn, or when used as border plants with a shrubbery background. In summer they produce large panicles of showy white waxy flowers which are very striking throughout the daytime and are especially so by twilight. The foliage being evergreen gives an added value to the plants for winter effects. A considerable number of this group of plants is well adapted for use in window- gardens. The very grotesqueness of some and the remarkable symmetry of others appeal to one's interest as much as do many gaudy and highly colored flowers of other classes of plants. Furthermore, a large proportion of these plants produce very excellent flowers, and frequently the resulting fruits are equally showy. Among the species valuable for individual pot- plants may be mentioned the following. Nearly all the echeverias are attractive in both foliage and flower characters. The globose and stemless rosette forms of sempervivum, commonly known as hen- and-chickens, are especially noteworthy. The production of numerous offsets and these appearing from beneath the foliage of the parent are very interesting and suggest the application of the common name. A very large number of the smaller cacti deserve consideration. The crown of flowers, followed by a like crown of colored fruits, is particularly pleasing. The numerous species of stapelias are easily grown and in the autumn produce a variety of strikingly showy flowers. Their one objectionable feature is the disagreeable odor of the freshly opened flowers, but this passes away in a very short time, while the flowers remain open for several days.

Not all the succulents lend themselves well to ornamental planting, although many can be thus used and very pleasing effects are produced. The small globular and short cylindrical cacti, with their great diversity in color of the plant-body and of the spines, give material for very effective combinations in design work. They have this advantage over foliage plants used in such work, inasmuch as their growth is so slight that the plants may be placed close together at the beginning and, without any special subsequent care, the design thus formed will retain its full outline throughout the season. A suggestion of the possibility of using cacti in this way is to be seen in the accompanying illustration (Fig. 3014). For this class of planting echeverias are undoubtedly the best material obtainable. The individual plants are equally as symmetrical and pleasing as the cacti, and the range of color variations among the species is fully as great. They have the added advantage that they can be propagated more easily and more abundantly than is possible with cacti. When a large number of mixed genera and species of succulents is available, exceptionally attractive plantings may be produced by a combination of these in more natural rather than formal designs. (Fig. 3015.) These appear to best advantage when planted among rocks and the soil surface covered over with gravel and sand. Such treatment not only gives a more natural appearance to the planting but is advantageous because it keeps the plant-bodies from coming in contact with the earth, which to most of them is very injurious if the soil is wet for any considerable time. In northern climates these beds must necessarily be but temporary combinations, to receive the plants for the summer months. In the south and southwest regions, where most of the succulents are quite hardy, the planting may be made permanent. In such cases very pleas-
ing effects are produced by planting on a sloping surface, in more or less raised beds or, better still, in rockeries.

The cultivation of succulents.

For a general rule, it may be stated that all succulents require an open porous sandy soil and perfect drainage.Other conditions, such as watering and atmospheric humidity and temperature,must vary somewhat with individuals or with special groups.Nearly all the species are very easily grown for seed,although in many cases vegetative reproduction is more available.In fact,some species have natural adaptions for propagation in this way as well as by seeds,and quicker returns may be had from the vegetative methods.The method employed in propagating cacti from seed has given equally excellent results when applied to all other genera of succulents and is therefore given in all essential detail.
Cacti are especially easy to start from seeds and with proper care may be readily brought to maturity. Experience teaches that such plants are better adapted to greenhouse treatment than those brought in from their native wilds. The latter suffer from the shock of radically changed conditions. For a germinating vessel, nothing can be more convenient than a 3- or 4-inch pot. If not fresh from the pottery, this should be thoroughly sterilized. Sterilization can be accomplished by soaking and washing in a dilute solution of copper sulfate (blue vitriol) and subsequently rinsing well; or the pots may be placed in a furnace till all organic matter has been destroyed. This sterilization is necessary for the reason that the seedlings must remain in the seed-pot for a considerable time before it is possible to transplant them. If not sterilized, the pot is likely soon to be covered with algœ or other organic growth and this, spreading over the surface of the soil, will quickly smother the young plants. For the same reason also, the soil should be thoroughly sterilized. This seeding soil should be very sandy with only sufficient humus mixed with it to furnish food for the young plant, of which a very little is sufficient. To insure perfect drainage, the pot is filled at least one-fourth full of broken bits of pots or charcoal, on top of which is placed the soil up to about 3/4 inch from the top. This is jarred down lightly and the surface leveled. The seeds are then scattered evenly over the surface and firmed down with a flat-faced cylindrical block. Over the seeds is placed a layer, about 3/8 inch deep, of fine gravel not

larger than a small pea. One of the chief drawbacks in growing cactus seedlings is their susceptibility to "damp off" in their younger stages. The protection afforded by this layer of gravel removes that danger. It also prevents any baking of the surface of the soil. The pots are then placed in a pan of water and allowed to remain until the water shows on the surface of the soil. Subsequent watering can be accomplished with a fine spray, applied to the surface of the gravel.

After planting, the seed-pots should be placed on a bench which is insulated in vessels of water or, tetter, in water with a surface coat of oil. This oil is to exclude ants, which have an especial liking for cactus seeds. Best results are secured in a humid atmosphere and a temperature of at least 70° F. The seedlings of most genera ought to appear within ten days, but opuntia may require a little longer. When the seedlings begin to show spines, they may be transplanted into small flats of earth into which a little more humus or sod soil has been mixed. They may remain in these flats for one to several years, depending on the rapidity of growth in different species. Eventually they are potted off as individual specimens or placed in the open ground.

It is only in the southwest states that many of the cactus plants are hardy enough to be permanently planted out-of-doors. Throughout the greater part of the United States they are tender and require greenhouse protection in winter. In this colder region they

Other conditions, such as watering and atmospheric *—TEay be planted in the open ground of a conservatory,

humidity and temperature, must vary somewhat with individuals or with special groups. Nearly all the species are very easily grown from seed, although in many cases vegetative reproduction is more available. In fact, some species have natural adaptations for propagation in this way as well as by seeds, and quicker returns may be had from the vegetative methods. The method employed in propagating cacti from seed has given equally excellent results when applied to all other genera of succulents and is therefore given in all essential detail.

where they thrive excellently, or they may be kept m pots in winter and, in the hottest part of summer, be removed to the outside and the pots plunged in beds.

Almost any cactus will readily strike root from cuttings. The cut surface must be allowed to dry for several days, until a corky layer has formed over it. The cutting may then be placed in sand to root, its base but little below the surface. If slender, the cutting should be tied in position to a supporting stick.

Grafting of cacti is almost unlimited in its possibilities, although employed only in particular cases. Small globose forms, such as mammillaria (Fig. 3016), echino- cactus, echinopsis, and others, are frequently grafted on some abundantly rooting cereus. Good stocks are provided by Cereus Bonplandii and C. tortuosus, though

almost any of the smaller columnar forms may be used. With these cions and stocks, it is necessary only to make a smooth horizontal cut across each and place the two flat surfaces together. The cion is held in position by placing soft strings or raffia over it and tying the ends firmly about the stock or to sticks thrust into the earth. Zygocaetus (the old epiphyllum), rhipsalis, and A porocactus (or Cereus) flagelliformis, which are epiphytic species, do well when grafted on slender upright species of cereus, but are more commonly placed on pereskia. If zygocactus is used as a stock, cleft-grafting is usually employed; if rhipsalis, either the cleft- or saddle-graft. Cristate forms treated as cuttings usually develop normal - formed new growths, but when grafted will continue the cristate character.

Although it is possible for cacti to survive a long drought in nat ure, yet when grown in pots they are seriously injured if their roots remain dry for any considerable time. They should not be placed on benches over the heating-pipes, where the soil soon dries. It is desirable to have the soil cool and the air overhead warm and rather dry for all desert forms. Contrary to a prevalent opinion, they require water. This should be applied in sufficient quantity only to keep the soil moist. A saturated soil quickly induces a soft watery rot which is fatal to the plant. This is especially likely if the soil contains any organic matter that has not been thoroughly decomposed. A small amount of lime in the soil is desirable, and soil should never be sour. Perfect drainage is necessary at all times. Many species of cereus. and phyllocactus (now properly epi- phyllum) climb over trees or rocks by means of aerial roots. These are indigenous to the more tropical regions and should be grown in a separate room from the desert forms, in one where the atmosphere can be kept at a higher degree of humidity. They should, also, be provided with suitable supports on which to climb. Zygocactus, rhipsalis, and other epiphytic cacti, may be successfully grown in this same room, but suspended in baskets in the way in which orchids are treated.

Agaves and furcreas, although readily grown from seeds, are more commonly propagated from suckers, or from the bulblets produced in abundance in the inflorescence of many species. For these plants a good soil is one of half sod and half sand. In nature they do not form deeply penetrating roots but widely spreading horizontal feeders. In pot or tub culture, the roots quickly reach the walls of the container and the plant very soon becomes pot-bound. Furthermore, if the container is allowed to remain dry for any time the roots are seriously injured thereby. When possible, it is better to plunge the pots or plant directly in open ground.

Euphorbias and pedilanthuses are best treated in every way as are the cacti. Their cultural methods differ but very little. While it is possible to grow them from cuttings, it is less easily accomplished than with cacti. The cut surface should be placed immediately in powdered charcoal to check the flow of milky sap. When the surface is thoroughly dry, the cutting may be rooted in finely broken charcoal or in sterilized sand. These plants are very susceptible to bacterial rot. Grafting is possible but difficult. It is sometimes employed to preserve a cristate growth of the cion.

Most genera of Crassulaceae are propagated more readily from seeds or from stem-cuttings. There are a few noteworthy exceptions, however. Bryophyllum can be more quickly and just as abundantly multiplied

3017. An elongated cactus form.—Lopho- cereus Schottii.

by placing matured healthy leaves flat on wet sand and kept in a moist warm atmosphere. In a very short time tiny plants will appear in the notches about the margin of the leaf (Fig. 673, Vol. I). When of sufficient size these may be removed and potted as individual plants. In most species of echeveria, multiplication is best accomplished by carefully removing the healthy mature leaves and placing them on sand as with bryo- phyllum. The base of the leaf must not be injured, for it is from this point that the one or more young plants lets develop. The leaf-like bracts on the flowering; stock of many species are very easily detached and propagate even more readily than the normal leaves. The above method is adapted to the acaulescent species of echeveria. With the caulescent species the rosette is cut from the top of the stem and treated as a cutting. The parent plant, thus pruned, will soon throw out a number of growths from the dormant lateral buds. As soon as these have formed rosettes of about an inch in diameter they, too, may be removed and will readily grow as cuttings.

Many Crassulaceae:, and echeverias in particular, suffer severely from attacks on their roots and the base of the stem by nematodes. For this reason only clean fresh or sterilized soil should be used in growing them. The various genera and species may be grafted back and forth but no special advantage is to be gained by the process. It is also possible to hybridize between the genera and the species, and a number of interesting results have been secured. Some of the echeveria hybrids have proved to be valuable additions to the group used in design work or for bordering other beds.

Asclepiadaceae; is most commonly represented in collections by the genus Stapelia. These plants fare excellently when given the treatment recommended for cacti. The chief difficulty in growing them, in the past, seems to have been their proneness to decay at the surface of the soil, especially in wintertime. This is easily prevented. See that the drainage is perfect and use porous sandy soil. Spread the roots out on the surface of the soil and cover not more than 1/2 inch deep with more soil. Over this place an inch layer of gravel about

the size of peas. Their susceptibility to decay at the surface is comparable to the damping-off of seedlings. The mulch of gravel is invaluable in remedying both maladies. Keep the soil moist but never saturated, and do not permit the roots to become excessively dry. This treatment will insure good continuous healthy growth and, in autumn, a reward of many attractive flowers. The other genera require like treatment. Grafting of genera and species is easily effected but of no special cultural value. Owing to the highly specialized structure of the flower in Asclepiadaceae;, it has thus far been impossible to effect artificial pollination, although natural hybrids through the agency of flies, are very common. This is especially true in stapelias. Bigeneric hybrids have been reported.

Dyckia and hechtia of the Bromeliaceae and yucca, and the aloe group of the Liliáceae;, should receive the same treatment as agave. The species are more commonly propagated by seeds, and the hybrids by division and stem-cuttings or division of the crown. Senecio (Kleinia), of the Composita;, may be propagated either by seeds or by cuttings. With them, also, grafting is possible. C. H. Thompson.

Topiary planting and garden architecture.

Topiary work includes sheared hedges, pollarded trees, clipped individual shrubs, whether shaped into simple, rounded, or pointed form, or into more elaborate designs. It includes the trimming of masses of foliage into the form of birds, beasts, furniture, architecture, and other conceits. The more intricate designs are usually attempted in evergreen plants.—Garden architecture comprises all structural or architectural ebments introduced into the landscape except the main buildings that are to serve the primary uses of a property. This definition thus includes all walls, trellages, posts, gates, pavilions, exedras, loggias, pergolas, shelters, fountains, bridges, seats, pavements; closely related with it are garden and lawn ornaments and furniture, such as statuary, vases, urns, dials, bird-fountains, lanterns, and the like. It includes the plain, the simple, and the rustic, as well as the more elaborate, ambitious, or ornate. Virtually all of the historical architectural styles are represented or suggested in the forms of garden architecture. For interesting illustrations and discussions of these subjects, the reader should consult Blomfield and Thomas, "The Formal Garden" (London), from which Figs. 3018 to 3023 are adapted. Compare, also, Fig. 3025. Fig. 3024 shows a common form of vase, used not so much for its architectural placing as for a receptacle in which to grow flowers.

Topiary and garden architecture, although distinct and separate, are nevertheless essentially related, both in origin and in use. Both have their inception in the virtually universal formality of all early landscape design, and historically and at the present day they frequently stand side by side as related elements of a design.

For many centuries gardening was conducted behind inclosing and protecting walls, a practice made necessary by the uncivilized conditions. In general, such inclosed gardens were rectangular or geometrically regular, and comparatively small. They existed in immediate proximity to the owner's dwelling or adjacent to the building. The necessity of conserving ground and of utilizing it most efficiently lead naturally to arrangement and planting in straight lines and rows. Utility having thus first determined a regular arrangement of plant-materials in close proximity to architecture, esthetic composition, in its turn, attracted the attention of more cultured man and formal design in landscape gradually evolved.

Both garden architecture and topiary are attributes of the formal in landscape design, which is determined

by lines, axes, and balance of parts. The inappropriate use of either results in inharmonious and bad design and constitutes an esthetic abuse.

The following plants are well adapted to topiary treatment :

Note: E moans plants evergreen.

P means plant mustpe protected in climate of Boston.
S means plant is semi-evergreen.

Acer campestre.
Acer platanoidee var. globosum.
Berbería Thunbergii.
E—fiuxiLs japónica.
EP—Buxus senmervirens.
Carpinus Betulua.
Carpinus Betulus var. globosa.
Catalpa bignonioides var. nana (=C. Bungei in the trade but not the true C. Bungei from northern China). A dwnrf variety of the southern catalpa often grafted high on upright stem. E—Chamsecyparis nootkatensis. E—Chamípcyparis obtusa var. nana (=Retinispora in the trade).
Cornus mas.
Cratagus Oxyacantha.
Evonymus alata. E—Evonymus radicans. EP—Ilex erenata. (A small-leaved variety of this has grown in the
Arnold Arboretum at Boston entirely unprotected.) E—Ilex glabra.
Ligustrum Ibota.
Ligustrum Ibota var. Regelianum.
PS—Ligustrum ovalifolium.
S—Ligustrum vulgäre.
E—Picea excelsa.
E—Picea orientalis.
E—Pinua Cembra. .
E—Pinus densiflora var. pumila.
E—Pinus montana.
E—Pinus montana var. Mughus.
E—ilhamnus cathartica.
E—Taxus cuspidata.
E—Taxus cuspidata var. brevifolia.
E—Tsuga canadensis.
Viburnum Opulus var. nanum.
Viburnum prunifolium.

In the growing of the plants for topiary use, no special care is required except, to be sure that the plants are well grown in the nursery, vigorous, and naturally thick-topped and fine-twigged. If the piece

is to be a hedge or continuous line, the plants should be very uniform in size and vigor when set and the ground should be prepared in uniform condition so that all the subjects will have equal chance. The plants should be set close together. Clipping should be begun soon after the plants are established to keep them close and to develop and preserve the side and lower branches; and the clipping should be practised several times each year. If the plants once overgrow, so that they become open and scraggly below, they can never be brought into good condition. Great care must be exercised to see that insects and disease do not get started, and that the plants suffer neither from drought nor wet feet and that they are well supplied with nourishment. See Hedges.

Topiary work, as well as architecture, appears in gardens of many different ages. In fact, the whole history of gardens but emphasizes the continued use of formal foliage and architecture as essential elements in their design. As stated by Blomfield, "The word 'garden' itself means an enclosed space, a garth or yard surrounded by walls, as opposed to an unenclosed field or woods. The formal garden, with its insistence on strong bounding lines, is, strictly speaking, the only 'garden' . . . ; and it is not till the decay of architecture, which began in the middle of the eighteenth century, that any other method of dealing with a garden was entertained." The common use of hedges for the inclosing of gardens doubtless came into use when the more settled conditions made it unnecessary to retain masonry walls for protection.

In the writings of Pliny the Younger, who was bom A. D. 62, is the most complete description of the Roman gardens. In a letter addressed to his friend Appolinaris, he describes the garden attached to his Tuscan villa: "In front of the Portico is a sort of Terrace, embellished with various figures, and bounded by a Box Hedge, from which you descend by an easy slope, adorned with the representation of divers animals in Box, answering alternately to each other; this is surrounded by a walk enclosed with tonsile evergreens, shaped into a variety of forms. Behind it is the Ges- tatio, laid out in the form of a Circus, ornamented in the middle with Box, cut into numberless different figures, together with a plantation of shrubs prevented by the shears from running up too high; the whole is fenced by a wall, covered with Box rising in different ranges to the top . . . ." After describing several summer-houses he proceeds: "In front of these agreeable buildings is a spacious Hippodrome encompassed on every side by Plane Trees covered with Ivy. Beneath each Plane are planted Box Trees, and behind thsse, Bays which blend their shade with that of the Plane Trees. This plantation forms a straight boundary on each side of the Hippodrome. . . . Having passed through these winding allies, you enter a straight walk, which breaks out into a variety of others divided

off by box hedges. In one place you have a little meadow; in another the Box is cut into a thousand different forms; sometimes into letters expressing the name of the master; sometimes that of the artificer; whilst here and there little Obelisks rise intermixed alternately with fruit Trees; when on a sudden you are surprised with an imitation of the negligent beauties of rural Nature, in the center of which lies a spot surrounded with a knot of dwarf Plane Trees. Beyond these is a walk . . . where also Trees are cut into a variety of names and shapes. ... At the upper end is an Alcove of white marble shaded with Vines, supported by four small Pillars of Corystian Marble. From this bench the water, gushing through several small pipes, falls into a stone Cistern beneath, from whence it is received into a fine polished Marble Basin, so artfully contrived, that it is always full without ever overflowing. . . . Corresponding to this is a fountain, which is incessantly emptying and filling; for the Water, which it throws up to a great height, falling back again into it, is, by means of two openings, returned as fast as it is received. Fronting the Alcove stands a Summer House of exquisite Marble, whose doors project into a green enclosure; as from its upper and lower windows the eye is presented with a variety of different Verdures. Next to this is a little private closet .... Here also a fountain rises and instantly disappears; in different quarters are disposed several marble seats, which serve, as well as the Summer House, as so many reliefs wnen one is wearied by walking. Near each seat is a little fountain; and throughout the whole Hippodrome, several small Rills run murmuring along, wheresoever the hand of Art thought proper to conduct them, watering here and there spots of verdure, and in their progress refreshing the whole."

The Romans, establishing themselves in England, built gardens in which topiary work was doubtless to be found. Otherwise, in England prior to about the eleventh or twelfth centuries, gardening as an art of design and taste can scarcely be said to have existed. It is recorded, however, that in 1123 Henry the First formed a park at Woodstock, and it is the first of which authentic record has been preserved. It was probably intended chiefly as a game-preserve but contained, however, a labyrinth. And it is recorded as the custom of the times for the nobility to develop pleasure-gardens in the orchards beyond the walls of their castles, the chief embellishments of which consisted in "plants cut into monstrous figures, labyrinths, etc."

It is in the gardens of England of the early Renaissance periods and shortly before this time that the most extensive use of topiary work is found, in the greatest varietv and elaboration of form. Topiary art was practised, howeyer, in all European countries for centuries. It has been given particular and peculiar expression in each of several countries. The Dutch developed the art of carving in verdure at an early date and many strange and curious forms in box, along with many rare and flowering plants, were introduced into England from Holland. In France and Italy it was not so much a large variety of elaborate and intricate topiary as an extensive use of the simpler forms of clipped foliage as a means of gaining effect in larger, more monumental, and pretentious landscape arrangements than were elsewhere undertaken. The architectural gardens of the Italian Renaissance exemplify the effective and appropriate use of architecture in the garden. Here trees, naturally formal in habit, are combined with sheared hedges and edgings. These wonderful gardens teach the remarkable effectiveness

of such method in design when executed by the master hand.

The designers of the tremendous and monumental landscape arrangements executed in France in the later Renaissance periods gained distinctive effects by the very bold use of sheared foliage; they virtually carved their broad axially related plans out of the woodland. The "Bosque" in French design is comparable to the "Topiary grotesque" in the English. The French parterre gardens, in which intricate and elaborate geometrical designs are worked out in low sheared foliage or bed edging and white or colored gravel, are another expression developing from the same original motive as produced the topiary bird.

In the colonial gardens in America topiary work was common, mostly in the simpler form of clipped hedges, generally of box, and boxedged parterre gardens. Remains of many of these old gardens are still to be found in the Atlantic states, and a few old gardens are still in a good state of preservation and cultivation. The box-garden at Mount Vernon is perhaps the most noted, and is in an excellently preserved and restored state at the present time. See Plate XLVI, Vol. III.

A moderate amount of interesting and good topiary work is under way in gardens in this country today, and a few nurserymen are in position to furnish good clipped specimens in a variety of designs. The use of topiary work other than simple clipped hedges should be carefully and advisedly undertaken, however, for it is appropriate only when the whole architectural style of a property makes it suitable and when it becomes an inherent part of the scheme as a whole.

Garden architecture.

Any structure or structural element placed out-of-doors in nature takes on the significance of architecture, and must bear judgment as such. Landscape as such is either nature's work or man's work with nature's materials in their natural form. The placing of architecture in the landscape is always the combining of the obviously artificial with the natural, and the two must be brought into harmony. It is a deplorable fact that when, with the exercise of judgment and good taste, it is possible to attain harmony in the least costly as well as in the most expensive, so much bad and inharmonious architecture encumbers the landscape.

Under any circumstances, architecture becomes to some extent a feature of accent in the landscape, at jeast within its immediate surroundings. It is emphatic in contrast with its setting and always functions as focalizing the composition of which it forms a part.

In general, it is wiser to attempt a simple design and insure its substantial construction than to undertake the ornate in garden architecture. There is a world of interesting precedent in simple designs for the many smaller architectural embellishments of the garden, such as summer-houses or pools, pavements, seats, dial- bases, boxes, tubs, jars, and other ornaments and accessories. The use of simple boxes or ordinary pots
for flowers and specimen plants is to be encouraged, and the conversion of such inappropriate materials as plumbing fixtures into garden ornaments is to be condemned. The usual cast-iron vases and the like are marks of a passing era of bad taste. In lawn pottery, in the form of pots and vases, excellent designs are now to be had, as also of sun-dials.
No one consideration is more important than that the architectural style of even the simplest seat or sun-dial be similar to that found in the larger architecture of the building or buildings to which the landscape development may be related.
A number of reputable firms now produce substantially made garden furniture in considerable variety of good designs and in many different materials. Particularly good garden seats and garden pottery are now obtainable at reasonable prices and may be found in shops in some of the larger cities. The advertisements and trade catalogues of the manufacturing concerns are interesting and instructive.
However, the obtaining of individually well-designed and substantial articles having been assured, there remains still the selection of appropriate patterns. Garden architecture should correspond to the style, architectural and otherwise, of a property as a whole. Its appropriate use is its justification.
Rustic work is fitting and often most appropriate in a naturalistic setting. It is, however, architecture and should be so designed as to bear analysis as such. It should be structural in its line, and substantial. It is best when simple and unobtrusive in design. It is seldom appropriate when fantastic or whimsical. The occasional use of rustic work in such way that in its rough character it appears almost to have grown up with the surrounding wild conditions is very pleasing, particularly good unobtrusive seats, bridges, and shelters.
Eugene D. Montillon.

Planting for winter effect.
Winter is the season when there is the least sunshine, and the least sign of life and color in vegetation. As a floral festival, Christmas ranks second to Easter, owing doubtless to the relative scarcity and higher cost of materials. The ideal is for every family to grow its own flowers for Christmas gifts, but most persons have to content themselves with less personal products purchased from the florist. Holly is the symbol of Christmas as the lily is of Easter, each exemplifying the dominant color of the season. The popular demand in winter is for signs of hope and courage—hence the red berry, flower, or ribbon.
The phrase "winter-garden" has been used for a great variety of projects, indoors and out, ranging from the metropolitan restaurant with a few bay trees in tubs, to a winter home in Florida where one may work outdoors every day and all day. Notable progress has been made along many lines since 1900 in the art of living the year round amid beautiful vegetation.

Planting Indoor winter-gardens.
Perhaps the oldest use of the phrase winter-garden refers to a type of unheated or little-heated greenhouse which was popular in England when plants from the Cape and Australia were fashionable, but was generally a museum of potted plants rather than a garden. A new stage began in America about 1905, when Mrs. J. W . Stewart, of Glen Ridge, New Jersey, made a real garden under glass. (C. L. A. 13:168-70.) It has a broad lawn to tread upon, instead of narrow concrete walks, and in place of potted plants raised in tiers for show, there is a continuous border 3 to 4 feet wide, with bulbs and other flowers growing out of the earth at the familiar garden level. The temperature is that of a living-room. Another new stage began in 1906 when the conservatories in Garfield Park, Chicago, were completed. These were not the first attempts at landscape gardening under glass on a large scale, but they are believed to be the most impressive series of indoor nature-pictures in the world. Portable greenhouses and window-gardens now make it possible even for renters to have something more than a few potted plants on the window-sill. Those who can afford no glass may at least force twigs in water, preferring the early bloomers, like peach, plum, and forsythia to the late bloomers, like lilac and dogwood. In this line, the most notable achievement, of late, is the forcing of stems 6 to 8 feet high, by keeping them in a slightly heated attic until wanted for the living-room.

Planting Outdoor winter-gardens.
The southern states have a winter climate that makes outdoor work pleasant, and a landscape rich in types of beauty, as evergreen magnolias, long-leaved pines, and winter roses. Southern winter-gardens have their problems, but they can receive less notice here than the more acute problems of northern climates. A country with an evergreen grass, like Ireland, has a great advantage over America for winter beauty. English children are well protected from bitter winds by the omnipresent walled-garden or high-hedged home grounds. The formal winter-garden of England is often merely a straight walk, between high walls of clipped yew. Wordsworth's winter-garden is an early example of the naturalistic winter-garden, i. e., a sheltered spot surrounded by informal masses of trees and shrubs noted for their winter attractions.
In the northern states, however, it is neither safe nor pleasant to garden out-of- doors every day, and the winter landscape is commonly bleak, ugly, bare, or commonplace. Our most pressing problem, usually, is shelter from winds. On the plains and prairies many homes are surrounded by shelter-belts, but the landscape effect is not the best, owing to the artificial outlines of the farmsteads, the ill-concealed barnyards, and the inferior species used—soft maple, box elder, Norway spruce. Windbreaks in straight lines, protecting orchards or stock, sometimes give a spirited army-like effect, but may become monotonous in a country where everything seems to be rectangular. In the East naturalistic shelter-belts are commoner. The practice of moving large evergreens with a half-frozen ball has developed notably since 1900, and full-grown evergreen hedges can be secured to shelter winter playgrounds. Most persons see little beauty in the northern winter landscape. It is true that the East has little brilliant color or living green compared with England, China, or Japan, while the prairies and great plains have still less. Nature-study, however, opens the eyes of the people to a new world of beauty in outline and structure of trees, their trunks, and winter buds. The universal instinct for bright color, however, ought also to be gratified, and every family can receive and give satisfaction by means of foundation planting. Unfortunately, New York and Philadelphia may not have monumental evergreens to the extent that every London yard has box and holly, aucuba and veronica, yet many eastern homes may have mountain laurel on the sunny sides and rhododendron on the shady sides. Among the conifers most persons prefer the brilliant quick-growing but short-lived Japan cypresses, while lovers of permanence are willing to wait for Canadian and Japanese yew, Mugho pine, and Canadian juniper. Two superb evergreen vines, European ivy and evergreen bittersweet (Evonymus radicans var. vejeta), enliven house walls of brick and stone. On sunny days the red branches of Siberian dogwood are a cheery sight. Among the shrubs with brightly colored berries, the favorite for foundation planting is the Japanese barberry, largely because its red fruits are attractive all winter.

Types of winter-gardens.
Evergreen winter-gardens,—Perhaps the oldest type of winter-garden is the pinetum, which is primarily a collection of evergreens, but is also full of beauty during the period when other trees are leafless. One example is the Hunnewell collection at Wellesley, Massachusetts, part of which is doubled in beauty by reflection in a lake. Another example is the conifer valley in the Arnold Arboretum, which has a brook meandering through the center, while the heights are crowned by trees, the cultivated specimens on one side being balanced by a noble hemlock forest on the other. In the pinetum at Highland Park, Rochester, New York, the walk runs through the grassy center of the valley, with dwarf evergreens ascending the banks, these being disposed at convenient levels and distances for the eye, so that the different textures may be enjoyed to the full. The apparent height of this shallow valley is increased by planting the ridges with the tallest evergreens.

Shrubby winter-gardens. — Every arboretum or botanical garden is likely to have a fruticetum, or collection of shrubs. A garden composed almost exclusively of shrubs is attractive throughout the growing season, as well as during winter. There is a naturalistic winter-garden at Llyndanwalt, Abington, Pennsylvania, where a wood of about an acre near the house has been provided with features of year-round interest, including a rhododendron collection, a dense underplanting of young hemlocks, and a border of shrubbery selected with special reference to winter beauty. From the outside, these shrubs give privacy, shelter, and color in delightful contrast to the ordinary wooded pasture, which is rather colorless. From the interior these shrubs animate the trails and enliven the outlooks that have been purposely left toward the best features of the landscape.

Skating-ponds.—It is now the fashion to border skating-ponds with shrubs that have brightly colored twigs. On sunny days these furnish bold masses of color that harmonize with the vigorous mood and gay costumes of the skaters. After providing for the casino and for the snow that must be removed from the ice, there is generally ample room for a collection of showy dogwoods, willows, and wild roses. At Rochester, New York is a charming example, the shrubs being allowed to interlace like an old woodland border, so that the color of the twigs steals upon one unconsciously.

Gardenesque effects.—That it is possible to spoil even a winter landscape by overdoing color has been much demonstrated recently in parks, where nurserymen and gardeners have been allowed to plant large masses of Siberian dogwood and salmon-barked willow, the brightest of all winter reds. Such swamp-type plants are particularly inappropriate and gaudy on hilltops. A more poetic effect is produced by the "sunset willow" of the prairie states, a species of uncertain botanical status known to collectors as Saliae longifolia. It is common along middle-western streams. The most brilliant but least tasteful effects produced with shrubs that have brightly colored bark are in reality the carpet- bedding system. The willows and dogwoods are cut to the ground every year or two, in order to produce the greatest number of showy shoots, which are kept at a height of about 3 feet. This system sacrifices height, habit, and dignity to display. A standard park effect is white pine bordered by Siberian dogwood, which is about the strongest contrast that is in good taste on lawns. Perhaps the strongest contrast furnished by nature in the North is hemlock and canoe birch.

Winter walks.—The cheapest and most practical winter-garden for the largest number, may be a simple walk leading to the front, back, or side door, bordered by shrubs and trees, of which half or more have winter attractions. Brick set on concrete is considered pleasanter to the eye and foot than concrete, and is drier than grass. The tapestry type of brick set on edge is expensive, but gives a rich texture.

Materials for Winter-gardening.
One hundred and twenty-eight trees and shrubs that have pronounced winter beauty were listed by John Dunbar from the Rochester parks, not including the evergreens or plants that lose their vivid color before the end of the holidays. With such a wealth of material there should be little excuse for bare and ugly surroundings. Only the classes of materials may be mentioned and exemplified here.

Broad-leaved evergreens.—These are often more expensive than the narrow-leaved evergreens, and of smaller stature, but they have more ample foliage and frequently showier flowers or fruits. All require special care. Examples are American holly, mountain laurel, Rhododendron catawbiense and R. maaeimum, evergreen thorn, trailing myrtle, evergreen bitter-sweet, box.and its substitute, Ileae crenata var. microphylla. The English standard of beauty is European holly, laurel, and hybrid rhododendrons, because the darkest and shiniest foliage is commonly thought to be more beautiful than the duller and yellow-green type. A more practical standard for our climate is furnished by American holly, laurel, and rhododendron. In nurseries where both classes of plants may be observed, the European kinds are unquestionably rich and aristocratic, but sound a foreign note, while the native kinds have a cheery, sunny color that is eloquent of adaptation to our climate and scenery. The same principle applies to the narrow-leaved evergreens, Irish yew being commonly but mistakenly preferred to Canadian or Japanese yew. Semi-evergreens, like Hall's honeysuckle, are listed in this work under Autumn-Gardening.

Narrow-leaved evergreens.—The European standards are Scotch and Austrian pine, Norway spruce, silver fir, Irish juniper, and Irish yew. These are climatic misfits in America and constitute the bulk of the evergreen planting east of the Rockies that proves unsatisfactory. The American standards are white pine, hemlock, Douglas spruce, concolor fir, red cedar, and Canadian yew. The types of beauty represented in the two lists are not closely comparable.

Deciduous trees and shrubs.—Though lacking in brilliant color, the following are standards of quiet beauty. Marked for their outline or habit are pin oak, sweet gum, white birch, pepperidge, sassafras, tulip tree, white oak, and sycamore. Noted for their winter buds are flowering dogwood, beech, shagbark, balm of Gilead, honey locust, swamp bay, sassafras, and pussy willow. Familiar by their trunks are beech, birch, shagbark, sycamore, white oak, tulip tree, sweet gum, flowering dogwood, and mountain-ash.
Shrubs with brightly colored berries.—These materials do more to transform ordinary city lots than any others here mentioned. Shrubs cost less than evergreens mature more quickly than trees, are fairly permanent, and are cheap. Of the shrubs with decorative fruits, there are two main groups based on duration. Those which are attractive all winter, like barberries, must be reckoned more valuable than those which drop by New Year's or cease to be attractive then, like snow- berry and Indian currant. Each of these groups may be divided again on a basis of color. Red is the favorite color, because it seems to give the most warmth at the time it is most needed. Consequently the most popular shrubs for winter berries are the common and Japanese barberries, the multiflora and prairie roses, and the high-bush cranberry, all of which retain their red berries until spring. Of the other red berries, Viburnum dilatatum lasts until April; Japanese bitter-sweet until March; Viburnum Sargentii until February; while the following are attractive until February: Most species of Evonymus and Cotoneaster, Ilex verticillata, and red chokeberry (Aronia arbulifolia). The red-berried species tend to produce yellow varieties, but they have less popular appeal. Blue berries of great beauty are borne by the familiar white fringe and the little known symplocos. Theoretically black is an unattractive color, yet practically the black fruits appear well, especially against the snow, the most familiar example being the massive cluster of California privet, while the open cluster of Regel's privet has more grace. Viburnums furnish many dark berries, as do the following choice plants: Acanthopanae sessiliflorus, Rhamnus carthartica, rhodotypos, PhellUodendron amurense, Rhamnus dahu- rica, and Aronia mclanocarpa. Theoretically white should be the chilliest and least attractive color in winter, yet the snowberry is probably the only bush that is planted almost wholly for its winter berries, and its popularity continues although it often loses its attractiveness before Thanksgiving. The small waxy berries of candleberry (Myrica) are an agreeable sight till January, but this plant is more famous for its fragrance.
Shrubs with brightly colored twigs.—These materials are even more brilliant than shrubs with brightly colored berries. The ordinary 2- to 3-foot bush of barberry has few berries, when planted in the fall, while a Siberian dogwood of the same size is a consistent mass of red from planting day in October until April. These materials are showier on sunny days than clouded ones, and look best when the sun is at one's back. They do tolerably in the smallest yards of large and smoky cities but do not develop the brightest colors in dense shade.
In this group, also, red is the favorite color, the most popular being Siberian dogwood, with the Britzensis willow a fair second, the latter being unsuitable for foundation planting. Vivid color is often confined to twigs or wood a year or two old, as in the Lindens, but a four-year-old Siberian dogwood is showy from the ground up. Those who like a change from the Siberian sometimes plant the silky dogwood, which has purplish red wood, or the quieter-toned stolonifera, but the latter needs a moist situation and is too scaly for foundation planting. Yellow branches are more popular than yellow berries. Willows furnish half a dozen yellow kinds, dogwood two good ones, and yellow poplar one. Vivid green wood is furnished by kerria, Forsythia viridissima, sassafras, Colutea arborescens, and a variety of Cornus sanguínea.
Winter flowers.—The only hardy winter flower of importance is the Christmas rose (Helleborus niger), which blossoms in the North amid or under the snow any time from November to March. Winter crocuses are merely a coldframe hobby for enthusiasts. Scillas and the other March-blooming bulbs are often seen blooming in the snow, but they are essentially spring flowers. A unique and wonderful winter beauty is Pieris floribunda, which seems to be crowned by white flowers, but these are really buds. They are all the more wonderful because naked, and all the more beautiful because set off by evergreen foliage.
Wilhelm Miller.

Planting on walls. (Fig. 3030.)
Wall-gardening and walled gardens are two different departments of horticulture. The walled garden is an old English development based on the need of protecting fruit from thieves and on the fact that grapes and peaches do not ripen in the cool summers of England without extra heat, such as a south wall gathers. Out of these conditions have grown high brick and stone walls aggregating hundreds of miles in extent and forming a familiar sight in the English landscape. The walls have come to be covered with all sorts of fancy fruitS trained like vines. They also shelter many subtropical shrubs trained as climbers, which otherwise could be grown only under glass. Although these walls are often crowned with broken glass or spikes, they are generally beautiful in themselves, or are made so by a clothing of vines. Moreover, earth-filled holes are often purposely left on top for the growing of rock-loving flowers, such as wallflowers, snapdragons, wall pepper, Kenilworth ivy, houseleeks, and wild pinks. Time adds the crowning touch of loveliness by encouraging mosses on the shady side and lichens on the sunny. This type of garden is not common in America because it is very costly to make and also to maintain, owing to the higher cost of skilled labor for training fruits. Moreover, a wall is not necessary in our own hot summer climate for the ripening of grapes and peaches. However, the walled garden will gradually increase in numbers, for several reasons: It offers better protection from thieves than hedges or shrubbery; it makes a kitchen-garden yield from one to three months longer by giving protection from cutting winds and frost; it makes a sheltered outdoor playground for children in winter; it makes an effective background for hardy perennial flowers; and it gives privacy and charm, which gardens open to every eye do not possess.
Wall-gardening, on the other hand, is a modern application, growing out of the English passion for alpine flowers and based largely upon the fact that many of these exquisite flowers perish in the hardy borders, because of the wet English winters, but flourish permanently in the chinks of a wall, where they get better drainage. This is true of wallflowers and snapdragons, which have glorified many ruins for centuries, while on the level ground they are short-lived. Thus, dry-walling became fashionable at the beginning of the twentieth century. It was customary, whenever grading operations left a bank of earth, to put in a retaining wall, avoiding cement, and laying alpine plants between the stones. The popularity of this type of garden is attested by Gertrude Jekylls "Wall- and Water-Gardens," which has thirty-three plates illustrating the construction and main floral effects. Steps are commonly made in such a way that nearly all parts not actually needed for treading are filled with carpets and cushions of rock-loving flowers.
In America, wall-gardening was welcomed as an opportunity to replace some of the artificial, monotonous, and ill-kept grass-banks by retaining-walls clothed with the natural and varied beauty of flowers. Unfortunately, much of the most refined beauty of English wall-gardens, such as the mossy saxifrages give, is impossible here, because the hot summers are unfavorable to the choicer alpines. Analysis of the four largest and most successful examples of wall-gardening known in America in 1914 shows that great and new beauty has been achieved in this way, but that the largest floral effects are made by plants that are not particularly associated with mountains or rocks and which are easy to grow in ordinary gardens without the expense of dry-walling. Such desert plants as the houseleeks and stonecrops spread over large areas. Other successes are rock cress (Arabis albida), woolly chickweed (Cerastium tomentosum), snow-in-summer, woodruff, wild pinks, alpine forget-me-nots, Kenilworth ivy, and veronicas. Such carpets, however, do not have the charm of the dainty rosettes and mossy cushions of the high-altitude alpines, such as saxifrages, primroses, gentians, and edelweiss.
It is possible to have some of these finer things, if one does not stuff the walls with too much earth. This practice, which seems reasonable to every beginner, encourages the plants to make roots within the walls, and such roots are naturally destroyed by the first hot weather. It is better to give them a little grit and only a pinch of earth, so as to force the plants to send long roots through the walls into the earth banks where they will find the moisture, coolness, and drainage that are demanded by high alpines.
Steps have been successfully filled in America with chink-loving flowers, but- most gardeners are conservative about experimenting, declaring that the colder winters of America will cause damage to stone and flowers by the heaving action of frost. It is certainly unwise to have wide spaces between stones filled with material that will expand too much, but the aim should
be to give the plants as little root-room and food as possible in order to encourage their rooting outside the stonework. Wilhelm Miller.

Screen-planting.
From the landscape architect's point of view; screen- planting may be used to hide unsightly objects, to afford protection from prevalent winds, to give a background to the house, to lend an air of privacy and seclusion, or sometimes to add an ornamental feature. It may take the form of deep border planting, narrow hedge lines or mere vine-covered screens. Trees, shrubs, and vines are all available; but, whatever is used, the denser its habit of growth, the better screen it will make. Other things being equal, evergreens are better than deciduous plants, for the latter lose their leaves in winter. However, if evergreens are not available, there are still many deciduous plants whose dense habit of growth make a good screen even after the leaves are gone. A border planting, as in Fig. 2999, is really a screen against objects beyond; so also are such cover-plantings as those in Figs. 3000, 3001, 3031 and others. The real screens, however, are those plantings made for this particular purpose, mostly narrow in form but dense.

Vines for screen-planting.
For brick, stone, tree-trunks, or other solid surface.

Deciduous:

Hydrangea petiolaris (climbs by root-like holdfaste).
Parthenoeissus quinquefolia var. Engelmannii. A variety of Virginia creeper with disks, or suckers, on the ends of the ten- drils, which enable the plant to fasten itself to a surface.
Parthenocissus triouspidata var. Veitchii.

Evergreen:
Evonymus radicans var. vegeta (climbs by root-like holdfasts).
Hedera helix. Somewhat tender; in the N. should be planted where it will be shaded from winter sun or at least have its roots thoroughly mulched and the ground shaded by low growth about its base; climbs by root-like holdfasts.

Rapid-growing vines for banks or unsightly objects. Annuals;

Boussingaultia baselloides. Twining tender perennial treated as an annual, growing from 10 to 15 feet a season; roots must be taken up and stored away from frost.

Calonyction aculeatum (twining).
Echinocystis lobata (self-seeding; tendrils).
Humulus japonicus (twining).
Ipomoea purpurea (twining).
Phaseolus multiflorus (tendrils).
Herbaceous perennials (dying down to the ground but springing up again from the root):
Ipomoea pandurata (twining). This and next have fleshy roots and may become a nuisance if allowed to spread.
Pueraria hirsuta. This is known also in commerce as Dolichos japonicus; grows 40 feet in a season; twining.
Woody perennials (woody stem persisting above ground).
Actinidia arguta (twining).
Aristolochia macrophylla (A. Sipho) (twining).
Celastrus scandens (twining).
Lonicera japónica var. Halliana (twining).
Lycium chínense and L . halimifolium. Both are shrubs with recurving trailing stems which do not twine. Plant must be fastened to its support. Excellent to hold banks, but very vigorous and may become a nuisance.
Tall-growing vines reaching eaves of the house.
Actinidia arguta (vigorous; dark glossy foliage, twining).
Aristolochia macrophylla. Twining; large Heavy foliage; should not be used unless dense shadeis desired.
Campsis radicans. This is a heavy vine climbing by root-like holdfasts which are too weak to hold it in storm or wind; must be fastened to its support. Somewhat tender in the N. and usually has more or less dead wood. Better when used as porch or pillar vine where it can be reached and pruned easily.
Celaatrus scandens (twining).Parthenocissus. All kinds; tendrils with or without disks.
Wisteria chinensis. The finest of tall-growing vines; vigorous and hardy at all times.Vines for foliage only. All in the following list are deciduous, i. e., drop their leaves in winter. The only evergreen vines which can be used in the North are Evonymus radicans and Hedera helix. Even the foliage of Evonymus radicans will occasionally burn in winter although it is hardier than English ivy in this respect. Vinca minor and Pachysandra terminalis are good creeping plants for evergreen ground-cover and Hall's honeysuckle is semi-evergreen, holding good foliage until Christmas. Other flowering vines also good in foliage arc Clematis paniculata, Forsythia suspensa, which is a shrub with recurving and trailing stems excellentfor running over a bank or hanging down a wall, Rosa Wichuraiana and some of its many hybrids,and Wisteria chinensis.
Actinidia arguta.
Akebia quinata. Very graceful vine with delicate five-parted foliage.
semi-evergreen, remaining until January; twining. Aristolochia macrophylla.
Celastrus scandens (berries red and orange all winter; twining).
Lycium halimifolium.
Parthenocissus quinquefolia. Beautiful red autumn color; first vine
to color in the fall; climbs by tendrils usually without disks
except in var. Engelmannii. Parthenocissus tricuspidata var. Veitchii (beautiful autumn color;
climbs by tendrils ending in disks). Smilax rotundifolia. A vigorous wild vine with thick

glossy foliage
enduring both shade and wet soil. Vitis Coignetiae. From Japan; a vigorous grower with immense
leathery leaves usually brown felty beneath; the foliage is
especially strong and bold and turns a rich red color in fall.

Vines for flower. Plants marked with an asterisk(*) have attractive foliage as well as bloom
Campsis radicans. A heavy vine.
Clematis Jackmanii. Climbs by twisting leaf-stems. Flowers large and purple. C. Jackmanii var.alba is similar, but the flowers are creamy white. Both of these are good vines for bloom in July and August.
Clematis paniculata. Climbs as does the preceding species. Flowers small and white, covering

plant with a mass of bloom in September and October. Foliage remains glossy green, good until

December. The best fall-blooming vine.
Forsythia suspensa. Flowers yellow, appearing before the leaves covering the plant with a mass of bloom in April. Flower- buds of ten killed by cold in the northern tier of states.
Lonicera Heckrottii. Climbs by twining. This is a hybrid which blooms continuously during July,August, and September. The flowers are rose outside and yellow inside, and as open and closed flowers are present at the same time they make a very handsome showing. The only objection to the plant is that it is badly infested with aphids or green-flies.
Lonicera japonica var. Halliana. Bloom profuse and fragrant; flowers white, fading yellow in June and July.
Rambler roses, in order of bloom, June and July. These must be tied up. but are hardy without protection except possibly in the northern tier of states. In such cold places one must be content with the upright shrubby Rosa rugosa in white, and red varieties, both single and double, beginning in early June; with the white Rosa multiflora, beginning from middle to late June; and with the pink Prairie, or Michigan, rose (Rosa setigera) which does not begin until the second week in July. R. multiflora and R. setigera are both shrubs with arching habit and have produced many Rambler roses.Of the varieties following ,those marked with the a dagger(+) are the best: + Tausendscbon middle June,double,delicate pink,larger than Dorothy Perkins; Lady Duncan, single, rich salmon-pink; +Excelsa, late June, or early July, a long-season rose,double, rich crimson, a new variety, blooming at the same season as the old Crimson Rambler, but a better color; Dorothy Perkins, early July, double pink; white Dorothy Perkins, a white variety of the preceding; Alberic Barbier, middle July, semi-double or double creamy white, yellow in center, dark yellow in bud, excellent glossy foliage; Aviator Bleriot is a new variety, very similar to Alberic Barbier; +Hiawatha. middle July, a long-season rose, single, bright red with white center and yellow stamens; +Mrs. H. M.Walsh, middle July, double, white,same long season and good foliage as Rosa Wichuraiana, the Memorial rose of which it is practically a
double form; +R.Wichuraiana, which is blooming at this time, is the parent of many of the varieties named above, and is itself a very attractive rose.
Wisteria chinensis. A strong, twining vine, with long, hanging clusters of white or purple

flowers, according to variety, in middle and late May. Leaves alternate, compound, large, loose, and feathery. Beautiful in flower, graceful in habit, satisfactory in foliage, and vigorous and hardy at all times.
Large trees for wind protection and for background setting to the house.
Deciduous: These deciduous types are dense and compact in habit and make a good screen or background even after the leaves are gone in winter.
Acer platanoides.
Acer saccharum.
Esculus Hippocastanum.
Fagus sylvatica.
Quercus alba.
Tilia europaea.
Evergreen: The Scotch pine (Pinus sylvestris), Norway spruce (Picea excelsa), and Colorado blue spruce (Picea pungens) are probably the three most commonly planted evergreen trees. The Scotch pine is the best of the three for neutral mass planting but none is so satisfactory as the hemlock or the pines listed below. The Scotch pine has an irregular spreading habit with bluish green foliage, salmon-colored limbs and trunk and picturesque habit when old. It grows rapidly but is shortlived in America. The Norway spruce and Colorado blue spruce are both conical
evergreens and for this reason alone they are always emphatic and conspicuous. Even when planted in mass the individuals are so distinct that it requires years for them to merge into a uniform solid mass. Comparing a solid planting of Norway spruce with a similar planting of
hemlock, it is seen that in fhe former every individual spruce is stiff and conical and remains so for years, while the hemlocks with their graceful form and habit have lost their individuality and merged into one indefinite mass. The Norway spruce is also too somber and
funereal for cheerful home-ground planting. It is also short-lived in America and while hardy and rapid-growing it begins to go back and die at the top after forty or fifty years except in very favorable locations. The Colorado blue spruce is also short-lived in the eastern states and is altogether too conspicuous and emphatic both in form and color for neutral background planting.
Pinus austriaca.
Pinus resinosa.
Pinus Strobus,
Pseudotsuga taxifolia. This is a large conical tree like Norway spruce and therefore not so good for neutral background planting as either the pines or the hemlock mentioned in this same list. But it is the best of the conical spruce or fir type because more graceful in habit, with
soft more flexible foliage which is green or gray-green in color. It is a vigorous grower and though little known it is a very promising evergreen tree. Only the Rocky Mountain form is hardy in tne East.
Tsuga canadensis, the common hemlock.
Rapid-growing trees for screens. As a class, the rapid- growing trees are weak-wooded and transient. They are cheap and are usually thought of as fillers for temporary or quick effects until more permanent trees can be established.
Deciduous:
Acer Negundo.
Acer saccharinum.
Populus, Carolina poplar.
Evergreen:
Picea excelsa.
Pinus sylvestris. These are probably the fastest growing evergreen trees but they are not so long-lived as white pine, nor do they make either as graceful or as effective screen.
Screens tall and narrow (10 to 15 feet). Space the plants 2-3 feet apart in single row. For taller and more rapid-growing material, use Lombardy poplar (Populus nigra var. italica), or
upright sugar maple (Acer saccharum var. monumentale), 6 feet apart in the row. This latter is a new and very desirable form. It is durable and slower-growing like the sugar maple but narrow and upright like the Lombardy poplar. Bolle's poplar (Populus alba var. pyramidalis) is a
narrow upright form of the European white poplar and is just as undesirable as that tree. Moreover, the white woolly coating on the under side of the leaves makes the tree very conspicuous and when pronounced color is thus added to narrow upright form the tree becomes too emphatic for ordinary use. The Lombardy poplar with its normal green foliage is much safer to use when either vertical emphasis or a tall narrow screen is needed.
Deciduous:
Carpinus Betulus var. globosa. This is a compact upright variety of the European hornbeam. Excellent hedge-plant but very slow- growing. A plant standing in the open at Arnold Arboretum, Boston, has grown 6 feet wide and 12 feet high in 25 years. Perfectly hardy and,like Berberis Thunbergii, so dense that it makes a definite screen even after the leaves have fallen.
Quercus pedunculata var. fastigiata compacta (a compact upright form of the English oak).
Evergreen :Chamaecyparis nootkatensis. This is little known in the East as yet but has all the requirements for an ideal hedge-plant, tall and narrow. Plante observed in the open at Ithaca, New York, are perfectly hardy and have grown 5 feet wide and 7 feet high in twelve years. They
have not been protected nor trimmed nor specially cared for in any way. They are upright and oval in shape and very dense and compact. The foliage is thick and soft to the touch.
Juniperus chinensis. Resembles the native red cedar, J. vir- giniana, but is better because the foliage does not brown in winter. Also the leaves are more spreading and their bluish gray upper surfaces more noticeable which gives the spray a fuller and lighter-colored appearance.
Juniperus communis var. hibernica. This should be trained in the nursery to one central stem. When young the Irish juniper is a handsome narrow upright plant with bright gray-green foliage; but it grows much more rapidly than other cedars and soon looks miserable because, as now grown, its more or less equal upright parts become too heavy to support themselves and spread apart destroying the symmetry of the plant as well as revealing the dead and unsightly inner foliage.
Juniperus virginiana.
Taxus baccata var. hibernica (not quite hardy above N. Y. City).
Thuya occidentalis var. pyramidalis.
Thuya orientalis. This resembles the native arborvitae but is more handsome. Its branches and branchlets are also more distinctly vertical and the foliage smaller and brighter green.

Shrubs for screen border-planting.
Small (2 to 4 feet) (other native plants not so dense in
habit but with good foliage will make very effective screen-planting when massed together):
Deciduous :
Berberís Thunbergii (occasionally 6 feet).
Catalpa Bungei. This is the trade name for C. bignonioides var. nana. It is simply a dwarf variety of the southern catalpa and makes a dense round bush when growing on its own roots. It is often grafted high on upright stem and planted as a substitute for bay trees.
Chaenomeles japonica.
Deutxia gracílis (2 to 3 feet).
Deutxia Lemoinei (3 to 4 feet).
Dirca palustris. This has thornless flexible leathery twigs but is dense and symmetrical like Berberis Thunbergii. If allowed to grow naturally it will make good low hedge.
Hypericum aureum.
Hypericum prolificum.
Kerria japonica.
Ligustrum ibota var. Regelianum.
Ligustrum ovalifolium. This is not hardy north of Philadelphia and can be used only for low hedge in the North. May be cut to the ground and will spring up vigorously every year.
Lonicera thibetica.
Lycium chínense.
Lycium halimifolium.
Philadelphus coronarius var. nanus (2 to 3 feet).
Philadelphus Lemoinei (in variety, especially var. Avalanche Candelabre, and Gerbe de Neige).
Philadelphus microphyllus (this and P. coronarius are the original parents of the Lemoine hybrids).
Rhus canadensis.
Rosa rugosa (often 5 or 6 feet high but better if kept low and vigorous by frequent renewal from the base.
Rosa rugosa var. Blanche de Coubert (beautiful semi-double, white).
Rosa spinosíssima var. altaica (often 5 feet).
Spiraea Bumalda, Anthony Waterer variety (2 feet).
Spiraea japónica (3 feet).
Spiraea Thunbergii.
spiraea trilobata.
Symphoricarpos albus (often 5 feet).
Symphoricarpos orbiculatus (2 to 3 feet),
Vaccinium corymbosum (often 5 to 6 feet).
Viburnum Opulus var. nanum (2 to 3 feet. Seldom has flowers). Evergreen :
Buxus japonica. A new and hardy box; will probably reach 8 feet, but is slow-growing and easily
restrained by clipping.
Buxus sempervirens. Must be protected in the North but is hardy and tree-like in the South.
Chamaecyparis obtusa var. nana (6 to 8 feet, but very slow- growing and easily restrained).
Evonymus radicans var. vegeta (2 to 3 feet; with a little clipping can be brought into a low
natural hedge mass).
Ilex glabra.
Picea excelsa var. Clanbraziliana.
Pieris floribunda (2 to 3 feet).
Pinus densiflora var. pumila (often 6 feet).
Pinus montana var. Mughus (often 5 to 6 feet).
Rhododendron, Boule de Neige (white, blooming-period early).
Rhododendron carolinianum. Color lavender-pink, blooming- period very early. See note on page 2692.
Taxus cuspidata, var. brevifolia.
Thuya occidentalis var. nana. This may reach 3 to 4 feet but is very slow-growing and easily
restrained by clipping.
Thuya orientalis var. nana. This may reach 3 to 4 feet but is very slow-growing and is easily
restrained by clipping.
Medium (6 to 8 feet) (other native plants not so dense in habit but with good foliage will make
very effective screen-planting when massed together):
Deciduous:
Acanthopanax pentaphyllus.
Acer palmatum (often larger but slow-growing).
Berberis vulgaris.
Cornus paniculata.
Evonymus alata.
Forsythia suspensa. Good definite form and best for individual specimen planting.
Ilex verticillata.
Lonicera fragrantíssima.
Lonicera Morrowii.
Myrica carolinensis. Sometimes much larger than 6-8 ft. Can be kept lower very easily by thinning out and renewing from the base. Is still known in commerce as M. cerífera. Ranges
north to Nova Scotia near the coast. Is more shrubby, with blunt leaves which are broader and more oblong than those of M. cerífera.
Philadelphus inodorus. Has more definite and graceful form than P. coronarius and dark green almost glossy foliage.
Rhodotypos kerrioides.
Spiraea bracteata.
Spiraea gemmata.
Spiraea prunifolia yar. flore-pleno.
Spiraea Vanhouttei.
Evergreen:
Ilex crenata.
Kalmia latifolia (sometimes higher than 6 to 8 feet).
Picea orientalis. Large tree but adapted to small-scale planting because very alow-growing and also because easily restrained by pruning or pinching back.
Rhododendron, Caractacus (color bright red, blooming-period medium).
Rhododendron catawbiense var. album. Compact habit of R. catawbiense but flowers white,
blooming-period early.
Rhododendron delicatissimum (color blush-white, blooming- period late).
Rhododendron Everestianum (color lavender, blooming-period early).
Rhododendron, H. W. Sargent (color dark red, blooming- period late).
Rhododendron, Lady Armstrong (color pink, blooming-period early to medium).
Rhododendron purpureum elegans (color purple, blooming- period medium).
Taxus cuspidata.
Tsuga canadensis. The most graceful and effective large evergreen for screen-planting. Takes up lees room than white pine and is much slower-growing. Can be restrained easily and therefore is

adapted to small-scale planting. Large (10 to 15 feet) (other native plants not so dense in

habit but with good foliage will make very effective screen-planting when massed together):
Deciduous:
Acer campestre (small compact tree, dense foliage).
Acer ginnala (gorgeous autumn color).
Acer platanoides var. globosum (dwarf, dense, slow-growing).
Benzoin aestivale.
Berbería ariatata.
Carpinus Betulus. Much used for hedges. Better than our native hornbeam, Carpinua caroliniana.
Cornus mas (small compact tree, 15 to 20 feet).
Cotinus Coggygria.
Crataegus coccínea.
Crataegus Crus-galli.
Crataegus Oxyacantha var. Paulii.
Crataegus punctata. All these thorns are better as natural screens with room to spread at the

bottom than when confined in restricted hedge lines.
Hibiscus syriacus. Ten feet, dense and compact making good tall hedge, but thin at bottom.

Plant low dense shrubs in front. The white variety is the best.
Laburnum alpinum (compact large shrub or small tree 20 to 30 feet high).
Ligustrum Ibota.
Ligustrum vulgare.
Lonicera tatarica.
Philadelphus coronarius.
Pyrua coronaria (small tree).
Pyrus pulcherrima (small tree).
Rhamnus cathartica.
Rhamnua Frangula.
Syringa chinensis var. alba.
Syringa chinensis var. Sougeana (var. rubra).
Syringa vulgaris.
Viburnum dentatum. Will reach 10 to 12 feet, but may be restrained easily by gradual renewal

from the base.
Viburnum Lantana.
Viburnum prunifolíum (small tree).
Evergreen:
Ilex opaca.
Pinus montana a low, bushy tree, 20 feet high and 20 feet broad; very slow-growing.
Pinus Strobus. Excellent for screen-planting. More graceful,effective, and permanent than

Norway spruce or Scotch pine.
Pseudotsuga taxifolia.
Rhododendron album elegans (color white, blooming-period medium).
Tsuga canadensis. The most graceful and effective large evergreen for screen-planting. Takes up

less room than . white pine and is much slower-growing. Can be restrained easily and therefore is adapted to small-scale planting.
Ralph W. Curtis.

Winter protection of planting.

Winter protection is the preparing of plants to withstand the winter (Figs. 3032-3047). All plants are usually hardy in their own habitat, but many become tender when removed to a colder climate, requiring artificial protection. A permanent covering of snow furnishes ideal
protection, but unfortunately the American winters are very changeable. Continued steady cold is seldom injurious, but the alternate freezing and thawing toward spring are often fatal, the damage varying according as the situation is wet or dry and the soil light or heavy. For example, shallow- rooted plants, as Lobelia cardinalis, will often be thrown out of the ground in clayey soil. Such damage may be prevented by placing sods over the plants. Gail- lardias will winter safely in light well-drained soils with ordinary protection, but perish if wet and
heavy. The remarks in this article are meant to apply in the vicinity of Chicago.
Winter-covering intercepts the sun's rays and retards premature activity. It is as essential "to keep in the cold" during temporary warm spells as it is to retard excessive depth of frost. More damage is generally done in February and March than earlier. Roses and other shrubs may be prepared for the winter any time from the last half of November until well into December, but any plants of an herbaceous nature may be covered much earlier. Where field-mice are troublesome it is well to defer covering until after a good freeze, so that these nibblers may seek other winter quarters. Rabbits are fond of the Japan quince, Spiraea Van- houttei, Evonymus alata, and some others, and often damage newly planted material the first winter. When the branches are beyond their reach, protect the trunk with straw, tar paper, or burlaps, which will also prevent sun-blistering. If the shrubs are in groups or low- branched, run wire netting around them. Fall-planted material should be better protected against frost than established plants of the same species. All the Japanese flowering forms of the plum, peach,
and cherry tribes should have their roots mulched 4 or more inches deep. The fatal damage in the winter of 1898-1899 was at the roots, not overhead. Figs. 3032, 3033 show protection by means of straw and boughs; Figs. 3034-3036, protection inside of boxes, barrels, and wire netting.
Plants with evergreen foliage, like Heuchera sanguinea, are safer with a covering that will not mat down and rot the foliage or injure the crown. The danger is in open, wet seasons. Forest leaves are excellent for winter covering, provided they do not mat down. Oak leaves are good,
but those of elm, maple, and other trees that shed their foliage early are soft and mat too much. Leaves may be held in place by evergreen boughs, brush, or tops of bushy perennials like the native asters, or coarse strawy material. When leaves are used in barrels or boxes, the top of the package should be water-tight, and the leaves dry when put in. This precaution is not essential in all cases, but it is a safe rule to follow. Tar paper is comparatively cheap and comes handy in many phases of winter-covering. Gather the leaves when they are dry, and store under shelter until wanted. Save vines like those of Clematis paniculata and pole limas; they are good for covering climbing roses that are almost hardy. These keep off the bright sun when the plants are in a semi-frozen condition, shield them from the drying winds, and retard premature starting of the flower-buds. Forsythia suspensa trained as a climber on a south wall is benefited by such covering, or by burlaps, as its sheltered position induces activity too early and its flowering buds become a victim to late frosts. Any rhizomatous iris, such as the German iris, should be planted where surface drainage is ample, and in the case of young plants, or those recently divided, not covered with heavy manure or they are likely to decay in wet weather. Cover such plants with light material. Old established plants seldom need protection. Chrysanthemum coccineum requires similar conditions and treatment. All lilies except the hardiest, such as L. tigrinum, L. elegans, L. canadense, L. superbum, L.philadelphicum, L. spe- ciosum, L. tenuifolium, and so on, are best covered by a mound of ashes—wood or coal—which retains an even temperature. The other lilies may be mulched with manure and L. candidum with leaves. Eremurus in all its species, and Alstraemeria aurantiaca, require a deep box of leaves and the surrounding soil well mulched. An inverted V-shaped trough placed over such low edging plants as Veronica circae- oides and Thymus Serpyllum var. montanus, is beneficial. It is well to take up a few plants of Monarda did- yma, the double perennial sunflower, and Thymus Serpyllum, and winter them in a frame, over which place a wooden shutter to shed rain,placing leaves or manure on those that remain.
Where permanent windbreaks, such as plantations of evergreens, buildings or solid fences, do not exist, temporary ones should be made of boards, evergreen boughs, corn-stalks, and the like, to protect arboreal plants that are not quite hardy, e. g., in this climate Halesia Carolina, and in the eastern states Magnolia grandiflora, hollies, and the like. Place the windbreak at the sides toward the prevailing winds, generally north and west, and at the sunny side of any evergreen that browns. The boughs or stalks may be attached to wire netting or to cords fastened to stakes.
The so-called retinisporas may have placed over them an empty box open at the top. Shrubs that are still more tender should be boxed, the box having a tight top and ventilation at the sides. In all cases mulch well at the roots. Magnolia Soulangeana, M. speciosa, and plants of similar
degrees of hardiness may have their branches tied in and empty casks placed over them, one sitting partially inside the other, and held in place by stakes. Put a cone-shaped covering over the top to shed the snow. Or poles may be set close to the tree, wigwam fashion. Wrap these with burlaps, or wind string around them for the straw to lean against, and in both instances wrap with straw. The so-called hardy climbing roses, such as the Seven Sisters and Prairie Queen, which are hardy without protection, but are benefited by it, Wichuraiana and its hybrids, Paul Carmine Pillar, Russell Cottage, Crimson Rambler, Thalia, and Lord Penzance Sweetbrier hybrids, if against a wall, may have clematis or other vines placed thickly over them; or if in an open exposed situation, they may be wrapped in straw. (Fig. 3033.) Better
still, hill up the soil rather high at the roots, —to prevent breaking and to afford protection and drainage,— and then take the trouble to extend the mound in the form of a gradually diminishing ridge. Bend the canes along the ridge, choosing a time when there is no frost in them; then cover the canes with tar paper, over which place soil, strawy manure, or any warm covering. If the presence of a lawn prevents this method, lay on the grass and cover with a water-tight box filled with leaves. Canes will rot directly under an open knothole.In the
spring allow them to remain prostrate some time after uncovering to inure them gradually to the change and to induce the lower buds to strengthen. Hybrid Perpetuáls, the tender forms of Moss roses, Hermosa, Clothilde Sou- pert, and the Dwarf Polyan-thas, may be wrapped, boxed,or bent over and covered with soil. Those in beds may be bent over, the tops tied to the base of their neighbors, lead tags bearing numbers fastened to each plant, and a record taken of their names, and all summer labels stored to prevent loss when removing the leaves in the spring. Make a solid frame around them, higher at one end. and fill with leaves so as to cover the plants. Lap the roof-boards; they will shed water and allow ventilation. In the spring remove the leaves, replace the top for a few days, but let the sides remain for a week or so to shield from cold winds. Keep the plants prostrate until cut back.The tender Hybrid Teas require special attention. Cultivation and watering should be discontinued in September in order to retard a late growth, but if the fall is a dry one, they should receive a thorough soaking late in October. Early in November hill up the soil around the plants to a Height of 6 to 8 inches. After there is a crust of frozen soil a few inches thick, fill up with dry leaves to a little over the height of the hills or higher. Then board up the bed some 21/2 feet high at one side
and 2 feet at the other, and cover top with boards or tar paper, the object being to keep the leaves dry. Hybrid Perpétuais, or in fact any semi-hardy rose of low growth, may be protected as above. In most winters the Hybrid Teas can be safely carried over by hilling up the soil as described and covering with hardwood leaves 18 to 24 inches deep, held down by evergreen boughs, brush, or corn-stalks.
Field-mice or the smaller moles are troublesome sometimes where any open or loose material like leaves or straw is used for winter protection. Plants in cold- frames are often destroyed. This may be prevented by the following method: Procure some poisoned wheat and place in the interior
of a 4- or 5-inch common drain-tile. Place these tiles in the frames or among the roses, using ten grains of wheat to a tile. When spring comes lift up the tile carefully, so as not to spill the wheat and count the grains; by the use of the tiles one keeps track of the wheat and does
not endanger the birds.
Tree peonies and yuccas should have an empty box placed over them, large enough to prevent the plant from touching the wood. Hibiscus syriacus, diervillas, deutzias—except D. Lemoinei and D. parviflora which are hardy—ltea virginica, Cornus mas, and the like, are wrapped in straw, and when the wrappings exceed 4 feet in height they should be staked to prevent high winds from toppling them over. Rhododendrons when planted out are taken up, the roots given a good soaking in a tub, and replanted in cold pits, or in boxes placed in a coldhouse or pits. In the spring,
another bath is given them and the soil firmly pounded around them before replanting. This is essential for continued vigor. Cut all vines of the clematis to within 1 or 2 feet of the ground and lay them down, first mounding the soil a few inches if surface drainage is not good
and cover with ashes, boxed leaves, or soil, or mulch well and wrap the canes with straw. If close to a porch or steps, do not let the swept snow stay over them, unless well protected, as this snow solidifies and excludes air. If. as some now think, the broken outer skin of the
hybrid forms subjects them to disease, then these varieties should not be bent over, but staked and wrapped. It is best not to cut the foliage of the eulalias or the Japan iris, as it, of itself, is a good protection, but manure at the base is essential. Cut down Arundo Donax, cover heavily with any material, and cover all with tar paper or water-tight shutters. Place half-rotted leaf-mold over fern-beds, narcissi, English and Spanish iris or any early-blooming bulbous plant, or a light strawy covering that is easily removed. Fine old manure a few inches thick is good and can remain. Place a good coating of stable manure around the trees on the lawn, and when they have been established any length of time bear in mind that the feeding-roots extend out as far as the branches do. The soil under them has a double duty to perform—to sustain both the tree and the grass. Place short stakes around groups of
platycodons, Asclepiae tuberosa, or any other plants that are late to appear in the spring. Otherwise they may be overlooked in the spring and injured by digging. Examine all labels and see that none is cutting into the limbs of trees. Replace all rotten or defaced ones in the borders, using heavy labels, as thin ones often break off and are carried away when the surplus manure is removed. Cypress is a good material for labels. A. good label for young trees and shrubs is made of a thin sheet of copper. The name is written with, a stylus and a thin white paint rubbed on so as to fill in the depression. The label is fastened to a copper wire ring 3 or 4 inches in diameter, placed around the trunk and allowed to lie on the ground. Such a label is durable, unobtrusive and requires no attention for fear of cutting the wood, nor can it be lost.
W. C. Egan.
Structures for the winter protection of plants.
Pits, cold pits, storage-pits and plant-cellars (Figs. 3038-3047) are structures, with the greater part sunk beneath the surface of the ground, built for the purpose of protecting plants in winter without continued fire- heat. They are employed almost exclusively for storing
dormant plants. They are not suitable for storing growing plants any length of time, neither are they houses in which to grow plants. They should face the south and be sheltered against north winds by buildings or other windbreaks. Owing to their position they should be put in
well-drained ground only and well protected against surface water. A well-designed frame- yard is the best possible place for small pits.
The coldframe used by market-gardeners for wintering cabbage and lettuce for spring plantings, or by the florists for pansies, primroses, forget-me-nots, and the like, is really a simple pit. Such shallow pits, with proper protection, are useful for many other small plants which
would be injured by severe weather. A deep pit, like a coldframe, is shown in Fig. 3037. A pit built on the plan of the old-fashioned "outside cellar" (Fig. 3038) is useful for storing tubers and roots. See that it is well ventilated. A section of another pit is shown in Fig.
3039. More elaborate pits, for accommodating large plants, are illustrated in Figs. 3040-3047.
Double glazed hotbed sashes are now used and can be employed for the pits shown in Figs. 3043-3046, or wherever winter protection is required, as it takes too much time to cover the ordinary sash with mats and shutters. These sashes cost a little more and they are heavier; it
may be well to employ, therefore, a method for ventilation which obviates the necessity of lifting. They lessen the labor and let in sunlight all day. A thin layer of air is shut in by glass; the depth of this layer is the thickness of the sash bar; it keeps in heat and so keeps out frost. It is possible that some dust and perhaps fungous growth may accumulate or form within the layers. The glazing can be done at home, the lower glass being put in without putty and held in grooves on sides and ends and on the sash-bars by thin strips of wood.
For forms of pits, consult Figs. 3043-3046. Figs. 3043-3045 show inexpensive and convenient pits for small and medium-sized plants. They may be built 4 feet or less below the level of the ground, the height and width as shown in the diagrams; the length should be some multiple of 3,any thing between 9 and 30 feet, so that the glass roof may be made of hotbed sash and also protected by the straw mats and wooden shutters in common use. See Hotbeds. These pits are useful for storage in winter and also for carrying some of the hardier greenhouse plants in autumn until the houses are relieved of the chrysanthemum crop. Figs. 3043, 3044 make light hotbeds in spring, if filled with the leaves which formed their winter protection, and are also available for growing such plants as euphorbia during the summer. They are generally too deep
for dung hotbeds. These pits are planned to run east and west. If Fig. 3045 is thus placed, the roof on the north side may be made of plank instead of glass, but if it runs north and south it should have a glass roof on both sides. Easy access to all is obtained through the roof by
removing a sash. Sometimes a door can be built at one end. Fig. 3043 does not cost much more than Fig. 3044, and furnishes more room. By putting a few doors in the board roof, excellent ventilation and access is provided. Fig. 3045 gives the best head-room, but is rather dark for
evergreens with soft foliage, e.g., Cytisus canariensis, unless the whole roof is glass. A pit like this has always been used in the Arnold Arboretum for wintering seedlings, rooted cuttings and grafts,—young stock grown in flats but too delicate for the open ground. The arrangement of shelves shown in the diagram gives storage to large numbers of these small plants. In Fig. 3046 is shown a small plant-cellar, more expensive but with better capacity for large plants. It
should run north and south, and, excepting the glass roof, is wholly below ground, and consequently extremely well protected against frost. The door is at either end or side. By taking advantage of sloping ground it ia possible to enter on the ground-floor level, which is important when large plants in tubs must be handled. In such cases a concrete floor may be built. The monitor roof provides plenty of light and ventilation; wooden shutters cover the glass in cold weather. This form of pit is not only well adapted to plants, but also is excellent for storing fruits and also brussels sprouts, celery, and cauliflower until
Christmas. The forms of buildings larger than those above described vary much with different circumstances. Sometimes the cellar of a stable, tool-house, or other outbuilding can be utilized. The chief consideration is protection against frost, but provision must be made for thorough ventilation, and against a too high temperature in the autumn and early spring. It is because it is hardly possible to provide for these matters that dwelling-house cellars do not make good pits; they cannot be sufficiently ventilated to keep the temperature low enough except in the middle of winter. Growth is incited and cannot be maintained owing to lack of light.
Owing to their position, pits cannot well be made of wood, plank and cedar posts lasting from 4 to 6 years only. For large pits, stone and brick are most economical for walls and ceilings; for small ones concrete probably makes the cheapest and best wall; hollow tile might be used.
At the Bussey Institution the concrete walls of several small pits have stood 15 to 20 years without showing any sign of deterioration.
An excavation of the required dimensions is made, with due allowance for the walls. Inside the excavation a plank molding-frame is built at the proper distance; viz., the thickness of the walls, from the walls of earth which should have been cut as true as possible. This frame,
which should also be true and plumb, is carried to the required height for the inside face of wall and another frame is made at the proper distance on the surface of the ground, the inner face of which will be the outside face of the completed wall. These frames must be well braced; they carry a heavy load until the cement hardens. It is not necessary to make a complete frame for the whole pit at once; one end and a half of both sides can be built first, and the same frame reversed will serve for the remainder. Use a good quality Portland cement mixed one part of cement to two of sand with four or five parts broken stone or gravel which should not be larger than an egg; for floors the broken stone or gravel may be increased to seven or eight parts. The whole should be completely and quite carefully blended with hoe or shovel until each stone is coated. Throw this mass into the space between the
molding-frame and earth wall and settle compactly with a rammer. It is not advisable to mix more than a barrel at once, nor so much as this unless at least six men are employed.
Continuous batches are made until the work is finished. When the top layers are going in, insert 3/4-inch iron bolts 6 to 8 inches long at intervals of 6 feet. These secure the wooden
sills. In warm dry weather the frames can be removed within twenty- four hours or less, but first examine carefully the condition of the concrete. After removal, smooth off any roughness and grout in with a whitewash brush a coat of portland cement mixed with water, but without
sand, thus obtaining a good color and a more homogeneous surface. For several days the work should be shaded and occasionally sprinkled with the hose. Do not attach the woodwork until the concrete is fully hardened. One and one-half barrels of cement make about 1 cubic yard of
concrete, that costs, in place, between five and six dollars, somewhat less if the cost of labor, sand, and gravel is moderate. Build in June or July, so that the concrete will be thoroughly dry before frost.
The construction of a brick roof is shown in Fig. 3046. Concrete could also be used. A good grade hotbed sash make the best glass roof. All sills, cross-bars, and the like, should be made of cypress and painted. The woodwork must be made strong to endure the continual exposures. It
is false economy to stint in quantity or quality. In cellars for nursery stock, a comparatively small amount of light is required, and the low roof is boarded in and shingled, building-paper being used. Planks may be substituted for boards, or the roof may be double.
Sand or gravel, 1 foot deep, makes the best floor, or half sand and half loam where plants are to be heeled-in. A concrete floor should be used only where the drainage is absolutely perfect.
The sides and ends should be banked with leaves or other material. (See Fig. 3039). In the vicinity of Boston this should be done about November 15. The same covering can also be given to low roofs. The glass is protected by mats and shutters, much as in ordinary hotbeds. It is a
good plan to have on hand an extra supply of dry meadow hay to give additional shelter in zero
weather. Pits like those shown in Figs. 3043 and 3045, like greenhouses, should carry more than
one "crop". In early autumn they hold chrysanthemums, carnations, stevias, and the like; next
Rhododendron (Azalea) indica, Cytisus canariensis, heaths, and the like, some of which remain for the winter, while others are replaced by hardy shrubs, bulbs, and other plants for forcing.
For spring and summer use, see above. In eastern Massachusetts gardeners begin to use them in
September, but the final storage sometimes is not finished until Christmas. The longer the
plants can be kept in the open air the better fitted they are for their winter quarters.
In the care of pits, watering and ventilation are of prime importance. When first housed the
plants should be well watered, and, if this is carefully done, it will often be found that no further water is required for plants in tubs and large pots (10 inches or more). This also is true of heeled-in stock. Everything, however, should be so arranged that inspection is easy,
and water should be given when necessary. Plants on the shelves, particularly in small pots
(4-inch), will go dry oftener than those placed on the gravel floor. It is best to water on bright days, when the sashes can be removed. The great difficulty in keeping plants in good condition is owing to the condensation of moisture within the pits at times when it is impossible to open them on account of severe weather; therefore no more water should be given than is absolutely needed. As long as the weather permits, keep the sashes off or the windows
open night and day, and afterward open up whenever possible. On sunny days ventilate whenever the thermometer registers over 20 F., but do not begin until the sun strikes the frames, and shut off early in the afternoon. On mild days, with the mercury above freezing, remove the sashes entirely. This is the best way to get rid of the moisture-laden air, and is essential for keeping evergreen plants with soft foliage in good condition. To change the air in large cellars is more troublesome; here it is advisable to build an open fireplace in which a brisk fire may be kindled on mild days when all win-dows can , be unclosed, thus obtaining a better
circulation than is otherwise possible. Sometimes these large cellars have a line of hot-water pipes or other means of heating, by which not only is better ventilation secured but also additional protection in severe weather.
An unheated greenhouse (Fig. 3042) can sometimes be used advantageously, not only for protection but, if it is warm enough, for growing plants in spring and autumn, and to a certain extent in winter. It is really a pit 5 or 6 feet deep built below ground and attached on the south side to some building already on the place. It might not be satisfactory for the extreme
North but in southern New England and the middle states it is a great help: in European gardens it is sometimes called an alpine house, or, if it is larger and better built, a winter-garden.
Give a southern exposure and have it so arranged that the floor is on the same or nearly the same level as the cellar floor; if this cellar is heated, so much the better. The cellar will be convenient for various operations, also for storing soil and tools; water should be handy. A
door between it and the cellar is a necessity, but there need be none on the outside. The form of roof can be either lean-to or three-quarters span; in the latter form boarding, double if possible, can cover the roof next the house. Use double glazed glass and provide plenty of
ventilation by glass or board shutters: this last is most important. The dimensions should not be less than 10 feet in width and may be more; the length can be any multiple of three so that hotbed sash can be used for the roof. The interior layout should be a walk, not over 2 feet
wide, so placed that convenient and economical access is given the plants. These may be grown on benches, either solid or of boards, or planted in the earth. The great advantage of such a structure is that the plants can be handled from the inside in all weathers. The hardier
plants, like wallflowers and violets, bloom all winter; in autumn it can be used to prolong the chrysanthemum season, in spring it is a good place for starting seedlings, e. g., lettuce, cauliflower, and cabbage, and, if warm enough, an inside hotbed can be made to start tomatoes,
peppers and eggplant also; in it most of the plants named below can be stored or grown. Many plants of doubtful hardiness or of small size can be wintered and tried out. It is much simpler to handle than pits or frames, largely on account of easy access and the storage capabilities
of the cellar. It makes a good place to store plants for forcing and will even flower well tulips, hyacinths, and narcissi. A three-quarters span 12 by 15 feet with 8 feet of glass roof,in southern Massachusetts, well protected in all ways, has recorded on a self-registering thermometer only 24° F. in the last three years, outside temperature going as low as—10°F.Following is a list of plants that may be wintered in pits and frames with satisfactory

results. The list is made for the neighborhood of Boston.
1. Nursery stock of every description.
2. Stocks, cions, and cuttings for winter work.
3. Young nursery stock,—seedlings, cuttings, or grafts too delicate for planting in autumn.
4. Hardy plants for forcing or winter decoration. The temperature of pit or cellar for the above plants should be 35°F. or even lower occasionally. The larger plants should be heeled-in on the floor in sandy loam or in bunk-like shelves along the sides. Instead of loam, sphagnum can be used and is particularly good for cuttings and grafting stock. The very young stock is stored in flats or pans in which it has been grown. For forcing stock, see Farcing, pages 1265-1267.
Those marked with a star (*) are more tender and should not be exposed to frost. They should also be kept in the driest part of the pit.
1. Alstroemeria, canna, dahlia, gladiolus, Milla biflora, montbretia, oxalis for summer bedding, tuberose, tigridia, Zephyranthes Atamasco, Z. candida. Keep the above in dry house-cellars, where no frost penetrates, temperature 35° to 40° F. Dahlias and cannas can be covered with dry sand if prone to wilt. Tigridias should be hung up in bags to avoid mice.
2. Agave, aloe, Lippia citriodora, Datura suaveolens, some of the hardier cacti, e. g., Selenicereus grandiflorus and Opuntia Ficus-indica, Cordyline indivisa, fuchsia, Yucca gloriosa and probably other genera and species of succulent plants. Keep at temperature 35° to 43° F. in a very dry house-cellar, with as much light as possible; too much moisture is destructive.
3. Abelia in variety, *abutilon, *acacia, Acanthus mollis, *Agapanthus umbellatus, Araucaria imbrícala and A. excelsia, Aucuba japonica, bamboos, Buxus sempervirens, 'Callistemon sorts, Calluna vulgaris, 'Camellia (different species, including the tea plant), Ceanothus azureus, Cedrus Libani and C. Deodara, Cephalotaxus drupacea, 'citrus in variety, cistus (different species), cotoneaster (tender sorte), Cryp- tomeria japonica, cupressus (tender sorts),
"Cytisus canariensis and *C. racemosus, * Daphne odora, 'erica (hardier sorts), Eriobotrya japonica, Erythrina Crisla- galli, "Eugenia. Jambos, Evonymus japonica (tender varieties), Ficus Carica, Gelsemium sempervirens, Gordonia alatamaha, grapes (tender kinds), Hedera helix,
"Hibiscus Rosa-sinensis, Hydrangea hortensia, Ilex Aquifolium, kniphofia, laurestinus, Laurus nobilis, lagerstrcemia, Magnolia grandiflora, *Meratia praecox Myrtus communie, "Nerium Oleander, Olea europaea, "Osmanthus fragrans and O. Aquifolium, Passiflora caerulea, pernettya, Phormium tenax, *Pittosporum Tobira and others, Plumbago capensis, Podocarpus macrophylla var. Maki, Prunus Laurocerasus and others, "Psidium Guajava, "Punica Granatum, retinis-The above plants are commonly handled in pits for various reasons. In eastern Massachusetts, with the possible exception of those marked thus (*), they will bear a few degrees of frost, if not too long continued, without harm. The average temperatures of the pit should be just above freezing, say 35° F. The value of these plants depends upon not only carrying them through the winter in good condition, but also in giving them a good start in the spring. For this purpose a cool greenhouse must be provided; a cold grapery or a house constructed from the sashes used on the pits is equally good, in which the plants can be properly grown until it is warm enough to put them out-of-doors.
4. Anemone japonica and A. coronaira, Bellis perennis, Dianthus Caryophyllus (clove pinks and European carnations from seeds), Galax aphylla, myosotis, primula in variety, including auricula, Persian ranunculus, Viola odorata (tender sorts), pansies. wall-flowers, ettuce,
cabbage, cauliflower and parsley. These planta are wintered in coldframes, which should vary in depth with the size of the plant; sometimes the plants are grown and flowered in the frame, at others they are bedded put when the season permits.
5. Arisaema; arum, calochortus (different species), freesia in variety, iris (tender species), ixia, sparaxis. The above plants can be potted and carried in a pit or frame until wanted in the greenhouse.
B. M. Watson.

Shrubs for the Middle West.

The most popular shrubs in the Middle West, as in any new country, are usually of foreign origin. However, the native shrubs are beginning to play a great part in restoring and intensifying the characteristic beauty of this region. The dominant feature of middle western shrubbery is not apparent to all. This is largely due to the fact that the Middle West contains no unique species that compel universal admiration like the mountain laurel and rhododendrons, which are the crowning glory of the East. Every shrub of importance native to the Middle West is also native to the East. While the Middle West may rival the East in the luxuriance of its shrubbery, it is poorer in species, both native and foreign. About two-fifths of the middle western shrubs that are in general cultivation bear their flowers in flat clusters. These have
been called "symbols of the prairie" since they repeat many times on a small scale the great line of the horizon, which is the strongest feature of the middle western scenery, whether wild or cultivated, treeless or forested. Repetition of the horizontal is conspicuous enough
wherever hawthorns and prairie crab-apples (Pyrus ioensis) are abundant, owing to their strong horizontal branching. Few shrubs, however, have stratified branches. Their suggestion of the prairie is subtler and less insistent, because it appears only in the bloom. The boldest repeater of the prairie among the shrubs is the American black elder, with clusters 6 to 8 inches across. The viburnums and dogwoods have smaller clusters, ranging from 5 inches in diameter down to 2 inches. When wood and prairie meet, the prairie note is sounded more strongly by shrubs with horizontal branches, especially witch-hazel, and by juneherry and gray dogwood which, though erect when young, become intensely stratified when old. This is an important part of the prairie style of landscape gardening. The following lists are therefore classified according to this idea.Stratified shrubs. (Those marked * have horizontal branches, at least when old. The others have flat clusters of flowers.) Low shrubs, suitable for foundation planting and edging borders: Ceanothus americanus and C. ovatus; Hydrangea arborescens; Viburnum acerifolium and V. pubescens.Medium-high shrubs, ordinarily 5 to 6 feet: Cornus Amomum, C. racemosa* (or C. paniculata), and C. stolonifera; Sambucus pubens, S. canadensis, and its var. acutüoba; Viburnum cassinoides, V. dentatum, V. molle, and V. americanum. The last-named is considered by botanists to be the same as the European V. Opulus, but the American form is considered to be freer from plant-lice and is superior in other ways.Tall shrubs, suitable for the back of a border, corner of a house, or high foundation: Aralia spinosa*; Cornus alternifolia* and C. rugosa* (or C. circinata); Hamamelis virginiana*; Physocarpus opulifolius; Viburnum Lentago and V. prunifolium.Non-stratified shrubs.Low shrubs: Amelanchier alnifolia and var. pumila; Diervilla triflda; Evonymus obovata; Prunus pumila; Rhus canadensis (or R. aromatica); Ribes americanum; Rosa virginiana (or R. blanda), R. Carolina, R. humilis, and R. setigera; Rubus hispidus; Symphoricarpos occidentalis and S. orbiculatus.Medium-high shrubs: Corylus americana; Evonymus americana; Ilex verticillata; Rhus copallina, R. glabra, and R. typhina; Ribes aureum and R. Cynosbati; Spiraea alba; Symphoricarpos albus.
Tall shrubs: Aronia arbutifolia and A. melanocarpa; Benzoin aestivale; Cephalanthus

occidentalis; Staphylea trifolia; Zanthoxylum americanum.
The most significant plants in the above list, probably, are sumac and prairie rose. The sumac (Rhys glabra) was undoubtedly the most virile note on the wild prairie, where the summer foliage took on a wonderful gloss. It is still the most gorgeous color in the corn-belt, where brilliant reds are not commonly developed in autumn. The prairie rose, also known as the Michigan or Illinois rose (Rosa setigera), is now much planted beside front doors. The common wild rose of the open prairie is Rosa humilis, which, however, is familiar in the East, while Rosa setigera is decidedly more western in its range. The middle western point of view may be indicated by brief notes on a few other species.
Ceanothus ovatus is thought to be more refined in cultivation than New Jersey tea and has more, "western color;" should combine well with Lilium canadense or L. superbum. Cornus racemosa has been called "sunset dogwood" because in autumn its countless red pedicels make a glow like the characteristic prairie sunset; this and
sumac are prominent in "sunset gardens." Cornus rugosa is a magnificent species, but must have shade. Although hazel (Corylus) may be considered "coarse" in the East, its rugged character pleases the Middle West and its autumn color is unique. Hamamelis virginiana is very popular
because its yellow foliage lights up the autumn woods and because its stratified branches carry the prairie spirit into the woodland. Sambucus pubera, the red elder, will not thrive on clay or in full sun; it wants shade and prefers sandy soil. Symphori-carpos orbiculatus is commonly called "buckbush," and is a familiar sight in pastures. Viburnum
acerifolium is useful for the shady side of the house. Viburnum pubescens is the most floriferous of the viburnums and formerly common near Chicago. Zanthoxylum ameri- canum is almost as common in woodlots as buckbush; the scent of the foliage generally pleases.
Wilhelm Miller.

Shrubs for street and park planting.

Eastern United States, northern section.

Berberis Thunbergii.
Ceanothus americana.
Cercis canadensis.
Cercis japonica.
Chaenomeles japonica (subject to San Jose acale).
Clethra alnifolia.
Cornus in variety (these are subject to scale insecta).
Forsythia Fortunei.
Forsythia viridissima.
Hydrangea arborescens.
Hydrangea paniculata.
Kerria japonica.
Ligustrum Ibota.
Ligustrum Ibota var. Regelianum.
Lonicera Morrowii.
Lonicera tatarica.
Philadelphus in variety.
Physocarpus opulifolius.
Rhodotypos kerrioides.
Ribes in variety.
Rosa rugosa and other species.
Spiraea Billardii.
Spiraea Bumalda, including var. Anthony Waterer.
Spiraea japonica.
Spiraea japonica var. alba.
Spiraea carpinifolia.
Spiraea Van Houttei.
Symphoricarpos albus.
Symphoricarpos orbiculatus.
Syringa in variety.
Tamarix in variety (may be killed to the ground in the extreme
North but will come again from the root).
Viburnum dentatum.
Viburnum Opulus.

Eastern United States, central section. (From Philadelphia and St. Louis southward, in addition to the shrubs for the northern section.)

Abelia grandiflora. Jasminum in variety.
Buddleia variabilis varieties Ligustrum in variety.
Callicarpa purpurea. Mahonia Aquifolium.
Caryopteris incana. Spiraea in variety.
Deutzia in variety. Staphylea pinnata.
Evonymus in variety. Staphylea trifolia.
Forsythia suspensa. Stephanandra incisa.
Hypericum Moserianum. Styrax japonica.
Hex in variety.

Eastern United Slates, southern section. (For use in addidition to the two foregoing lists for

points south of Wilmington, North Carolina, and Charleston, South Carolina, and westward in the

southern half of the states on the Gulf of Mexico.)

Aucuba japonica. Pittosporum Tobira.
Gardenia in variety. Prunus caroliniana.
Nerium Oleander. Prunus Laurocerasus.
Osmanthus Aquifolium. Viburnum Tinus.

Shrubs for the seashore.

Berberis Thunbergii. Rosa nitida.
Hibiscus syriacus. Rosa rugosa.
Hydrangea, both woody and Rosa Wichuraiana.
semi-herbaceous. Spiraea in variety.
Hex opaca. Symphoricarpos albus.
Juniperus virginiana. Symphoricarpos orbiculatus.
Ligustrum in variety. Tamarix in variety.
Myrica cerífera.

The ilex, the hibiscus, and some of the ligustrums will not be hardy on the extreme northern Atlantic seacoast but will be hardy much farther north on the shore than in the regions adjoining.

Shrubs for regions of little rainfall.

Berberis Thunbergii.
Elaeagnus, especially E. angustifolia.
Lonicera, especially L. Morrowii and L. tatarica.
Philadelphus Lewisii.
Prunus serotina.
Ribes, especially R. aureum.
Rosa arkansana of cult.
Rosa caroliniana var. lucida.
Rosa nitida.
Rosa rugosa.
Rosa setigera.
Spiraea in variety.
Symphoricarpos in variety.
Syringa, especially S. chinensis.
Tamarix in variety.
In the northern sections the tamarix will kill to the ground every winter but will come from

the root. The tender spireas should not be used north of Denver, Colorado.
Shrubs for the Pacific slope. (In. addition to the plants suggested for the eastern United States. The lists for both the northern and central sections of the eastern states may be used on the North Pacific slope and all the eastern lists for the southern sections.)
Arbutus Unedo.
Ceanothus thyrsiflorus and other native species.
Cotoneaster in variety.
Crataegus in variety, especially C. Pyracantha (Pyracantha coccinea).
Elaeagnus in variety.
Evonymus in variety.
Sambucus racemosa.
Spartium junceum.
Spiraea ariaefolia and others.
Veronica in variety.

Shrubs for the Southern section. (In addition to all these listed for the eastern United States

and the above.)

Escallonia in variety. Prunus ilicifolia
Photinia arbutifolia. Prunus integrifolia.
Pittosporum in variety.

F L Mulford.

Shrubs for midcontinental region.
The following list of shrubs for the most part consists of kinds known to be perfectly hardy and to succeed in the region of St. Louis if planted with usual care and subsequently given reasonably good treatment. Many choice sorts which are not likely to be hardy much north of central Missouri without some protection are indicated by an asterisk (*). A few may not be generally known to the trade and hence procured with some difficulty at present but their value for this region was demonstrated by being grown several years at the Missouri Botanical Gerden.
Azalea and certain other Ericaceae, together with some allied genera like Kalmia that have formed attractive features in many plantations, are not included because they are generally shortlived and require more than ordinary care in planting and subsequent handling.

*Acanthopanax pentaphyllus. *Itea virginica.
Aesculus parviflora. *Kerria japonica.
Alnus Mitchelliana. *Kerria japonica argenteo-var-
Alnus serrulata. iegata.
Amelanchier canadensis. *Laburnum anagyroides.
*Amorpha canescens. *Lespedeza bicolor.
Amorpha fruticosa. *Lespedeza Sieboldii.
Aronia arbutifolia. Ligustrum amurense.
*Baccharis halimifolia. Ligustrum Ibota var. Regel-
*Benzoin aestivale. ianum.
Berberis Thunbergii. *Ligustrum ovalifolium.
Berberis vulgaris. *Lonicera fragrantissima.
Berberis vulgaris var. atro Lonicera involucrata.
purpurea. Lonicera Ledebourii.
Betula nana. Lonicera Morrowii.
Betuta pumila. Lonicera Ruprechtiana.
*Buddleia Davidii. Lonicera Standishii.
*Buddleia Lindleyana. Lonicera tatarica.
Calycanthus fertilis. Lonicera tatarica var. grandi
Calycanthus floridus. flora.
*Calycanthus occidentalis. Lonicera tatarica var. latifolia.
Caragana arborescens. Lonicera tatarica var. pu-
*Caryopteris incana. nicea.
*Ceanothus americanus. Lycium chinense,
Cephalanthus occidentalis. Lycium halimifolium.
Cercis canadensis. *Magnolia Soulangeana.
Chaenomeles japonica. *Magnolia Soulangeana var.
Clethra alnifolia. Lennei.
*Colutea arborescens. * Magnolia Soulangeana var.
*Comptonia asplenifolia. speciosa.
Cornus alba. *Magnolia stellata.
Cornus alba var. sibirica. Mahonia Aquifolium.
Cornus alternifolia. Philadelphus coronarius.
Cornus Amomum. Philadelphus coronariua var.
Cornue mas. flore-pleno.
Cornus racemosa. Philadelphus inodorus.
Cornus rugosa. Philadelphus laxus.
Cornus sanguinea. Philadelphus Lemoinei.
Cornus stolonifera. Philadelphus Lemoinei var.
Cornus stolonifera var. fla- erectus.
viramea. Philadelphus pubescens.
*Coronilla Emerus. Physocarpus opulifolius.
Corylus americana. Physocarpus opulifolius var.
Corylus Avellana var. atro lutea.
purpurea. Potentilla fruticosa.
Corylus Avellana var. lacini Prunus Amygdalus, and white
ata. variety.
Cotinus Coggygria. Ptelea trifoliata.
*Cotoneaster acuminata. *Rhamnus alnifolia.
*Cotoneaster racemiflora. Rhamnus caroliniana.
Crataegus Crus-galli. Rhamnus cathartica.
Crataegus Oxyacantha. Rhamnus Frangula.
*Daphne Mezereum. *Rhodotypos kerrioides.
Deutzia gracilis. Rhus canadensis.
Deutzia Lemoinei. Rhus copallina.
Deutzia scabra. Rhus glabra.
Deutzia scabra, "Pride of Rhus glabra var. laciniata,
Rochester." Rhus typhina.
Deutzia scabra var. Watereri. Rhus typhina var. laciniata.
Diervilla floribunda. Ribes aureum.
Diervilla floribunda var. grand Ribes Gordonianum.
iflora. Ribes sanguineum.
Diervila hybrids, "Eva Robinia hispida.
Rathke." Rubus odoratus.
Diervilla hybrids Kosteriana Salix discolor.
variegata. Salix humilis.
Diervilla Lonicera. Salix pentandra.
Dirca palustris. Salix petiolaris.
Elaeagnus angustifolia. Salix purpurea.
Elaeagnus argentea. Salix rostrata.
Elaeagnus multiflora. Salix sericea.
Elaeagnus umbellata, Salix tristis
*Evonymus alata. Sambucus canadensis.
Evonymus americana. Sambucus nigra.
Evonymus atropurpurea. Sambucus nigra var. aurea.
Evonymus Bungeana. Sambucus nigra var. laciniata.
Evonymus europaea. Sambucus racemosa.
Evonymus obovata. Shepherdia argentea.
*Evonymus radicans. Sorbus melanocarpa.
*Evonymus radicans var. ve Spiraea arguta.
geta. Spriaea Billardii.
*Exochorda racemosa. Spiraea Bumalda.
Forsythia intermedia. Spiraea Bumalda, "Anthony
Forsythia suspensa. Waterer."
Forsythia viridissima. Spiraea Menziesii.
Halimodendron halodendron. Spiraea prunifolia.
Hamamelis virginiana. Spiraea prunifolia var. flore-
Hibiscus syriacus, in variety. pleno.
Hibiscus syriacus var. Mee- Spiraea salicifolia.
hanii. Spiraea Thunbergii.
*Hippophae rhamnoides. Spiraea Van Houttei.
Hydrangea arborescens var. Staphylea colchica.
grandiflora. Staphylea trifolia
Hydrangea paniculate, *Stephandra incisa.
Hydrangea paniculata var. Syringa persica.
grandiflora. Syringa villosa.
*Hydrangea quercifolia. Syringa vulgaris, in variety.
*Hypericum Moserianum. Symphoricarpos albus.
*Ilex decidus. Symphoricarpos orbiculatus.
*Ilex serrata. Tamarix africana.
*Ilex verticillata. Tamarix gallica.

Tamarix gallica indica. Viburnum molle.
Tamarix hispida aestivalis. Viburnum Opulus.
Tamarix tetandra purpurea. Viburnum Opulua var.sterile
Viburnum acerifolium. Viburnum tomentosum.
Viburnum cassinoides. Viburnum prunifolium.
Viburnum dentatum. *Vitex Agnua-castus.
Viburnum Lantana. Xanthoceras sorbifolia.
Viburnum Lentago. *Xanthorrhiza apiifolia.

A few species commonly classed as woody are more herbaceous than most shrubs and hence more tender: top should be cut to the ground each spring and treated more as hardy perennials. Among these are the following :

Buddleia Davidii. Lespodeza bicolor.
Buddleia Lindleyana. Stephanandra incisa.
Caryopteris incana. Vitex Agnus-castus.
Coronilla Emerus.

Trailing and climbing vines.

*Actinidia arguta. Lonicera Caprifolíum.
*.Akebia quinata. 'Lonicera japonica.
*Ampelopsis heterophylla var. Lonicera japonica var. aureo-
amurensis. reticulata.
Aristolochia macrophylla. *Lonicera japonica var. Hal-
*Aristolochia tomentosa. liana.
*Bignonia capreolata. Lonicera Periclymenum var.
Campsis radicans belgica.
Celastrus orbiculatus. Lonicera sempervirens.
Celastrus scandens. Parthenocissus quinquefolia.
Clematis Flammula. Parthenocissus quinquefolia
Clematis lanuginosa var. var. Engelmannii.
Clematis Jackmanii. [Henryi. Parthenocissus tricuspidata.
Clematis paniculata. *Periploca graeca.
Clematis virginiana. Vitls, native species.
*Evonymus radicans. Wisteria chinensis.
*Evonymus radicans var. vegeta. Wisteria magnifica.
Forsythia suspensa. Wisteria speciosa.

Shrubs suitable for hedges.
Berberis Thunbergi . *Lonicera fragrantissima.
Berberis vulgaris Philadelphus, all species listed.
Berberis vulgaris var. atro Ribes Gordonianum.
purpurea. Ribes sanguineum.
Deutzia all species listed. Rhodotypos kerriodes
Elaeagnus multiflora. Shepherdia argentna.
Forsythia intermedia. Spiraea Billardii.
Hibiscus syriacus in variety. Spiraea Van Houttei.
*Hippophae rhamnoides. Tamarix, all species Usted.
Ligustrum, all listed species.

Shrubs for shady places.
Berberis Thunbergii. Hydrangea arborescens.
Berberis vulgaris. Hypericum Moserianum.
Berberia vulgaris var. atro- Ligustrum, all species.
purpurea. Lonicera Periclymenum.
Ceanothus americanus. Rhus canadensis.
Clethra alnifolia. Ribes sanguinea.
Cornus, all species. Rubus odoratus.
Deutzia gracilis. Viburnum acerifolium.
Deutzia Lemoinei. Viburnum dentatum.
Forsythia, al'species. Viburnum tomentosum.

Shrubs with twigs of striking color.

Cornus alba var. cerifera. Elaeagnus argentea.
Cornus sanguinea. Elaeagnus multiflora.
Cornus stolonifera. *Kerria japonica.
Cornus stolonifera var. flavi-
ramea.

Kinds with more or less conspicuous berries.

Berberis Thunbergii. *Evonymus alata.
Berberis vulgaris. Evonymus americana.
Evonymus Bungeana, Rhamnus cathartira
Evonymus radicans var. Rhamnus Frangula.
vegeta. Rhus glabra.
Ilex verticillata. Rhus typhina.
Ligustrum amurense. Sambucus, all species listed.
Ligustrum Ibota var. Regeli- Sorbus arbutifoha.
anum. Sorbus melanocarpa.
*Ligustrum ovalifolium. Staphylea trifolia.
Lonicera Ledebourii. Symphoricarpoa albus.
Lonicera Morrowi. Symphoricarpos orbiculatus
Lonicera Ruprechtianum. Viburnum.

H. C. Irish.

Shrubs and climbers for the South.

Owing to the great diversity of soil, elevation, and climatic conditions found in the Mountain, Piedmont, and Coastal zones of the South, it is impossible to make or to give an absolutely accurate list of deciduous and broad-leaved shrubs and climbers adapted to the three above-mentioned zones. The planter must, therefore, make due allowances for local conditions.

1. Piedmont Zone extends from the Mountain Zone to the Fall Lane, which follows approximately the following cities: Weldon and Raleigh. North Carolina, Camden, and Columbia, South Carolina; Augusta, Milledgeville, Macon, and Columbus, Georgia; Montgomery, Alabama; Columbus and Holly

Springs, Mississippi.

Deciduous shrubs for the Piedmont Zone.

Acanthopanax pentaphyllus. Colutea arborescens.
Acer japonicum Comptonia asplenifolia.
Aesculus octandra. Cornus alba.
Amelanchier atropurpurea. Cornus alba var. Spaethii.
Amelanchier canadeneis. Cornus Amomum.
Amelanchier rotundifolia. Cornus Mas.
Amorpha canescens. Cornus racemosa.
Amorpha fruticosa. Cornus rugosa.
Amorpha glabra. Cornus sanguínea.
Amorpha tenneesoensis. Cornue stolonifera,
Aralia chinensis var. mandshur Cornus stolonifera var. flavi-
ica. ramea.
Aronia arbutifolia. Coronilla Emerus.
Aronia melanocarpa. Corylopeis pauciflora.
Azalea arborescens. Corylus americana.
Azalea gandavensis. Corylue Avellana.
Azalea lutea. CoryluB Avellana var. laciniata.
Azalea mollis. Corylue máxima var. purpurea.
Azalea nudiflora. Corylue rostrata.
Azalea pontica. Cotoneaster acutifolia.
Azalea Vaseyi. Cotoneaster raultiflora.
Azalea viscosa. Cotoneaster racemiflora.
Baccharis halímifolia. Crataegus coccínea.
Benzoin aestivale. Crataegus Phaenopyrum,
Berberis aristata. Cratregüe Oxyacantha.
Berberis asiatica, Cratipgue uniflora.
Berberís canadensis. Cytisus praecox,
Berbcrie heteropoda. Cytisus acoparius.
Berberis Sieboldii. Daphne Genkwa.
Berberis sinensis. Daphne Mesereum.
Berberis Thunbergii. Deutzia gracilis.
Berberís vulgaris. Deutzia Lemoinei.
Berberís vulgaris var. atro Deutzia rosea
purpurea. Deutzia scabra.
Buckleya distichophylla. Deutzia scabra var. candidis-
Buddleia Davidii. sims.
Buddleia Davidii var. mag Deutzia scabra var. flore-pleno
nifica. roses.
Buddleia intermedia. Deutzia scabra var. Pride of
Buddleia japonica. Rochester.
Buddleia Lindteyana. Deutzia Sieboldiana.
Buddleia officinalis. Diervilla florida.
Caesalpinia Gilliesii. Diervilla hybrids.
Callicarpa americans.
Callicarpa purpures.
Calycanthus fertilis.
Calycanthus florida.
Calycanthus occiden-
talis.
Caragana arborescens.
Caragana Chamlagu.
Caryopteris incans.
Cassia macrantha.
Ceanothus americanus.
Ceanothus hybridus.
Cephalanthus occiden-
talis.
Cercis chinensis.
Cercis Siliquaetrum.
Chaenomeles japonica.
Chilopsis saligna.
Clerodendron trichoto-
mum.
Clethra alnifolia.

Diervilla'rivularis. Philadelphus gloriosus.
Diervilla sessilifolia. Philadelphus grandiflorus (cor-
Direa palustris. onariue var. ?)
Elaeagnus angustifolia. Philadelphus hirsutus.
Elaeagnus argentea Philadelphus inodorus.
Elaeagnus multiflora. Philadelphus laxus.
Elaeagnus parvifolia. Philadelphus Lemoinei.
EUcagnus umbellata. Philadelphus Lewísii.
Evonymus alata. Philadelphus pubescens.
Evonymus americana. Photinia villosa.
Evonymus Bungeana. Physocarpus opulifolius.
Evonymus europaea.
Evonymus nana.
Evonymus patens.
Exochorda Korolkowii.
Exochorda racemosa.
Fontanesia Fortunei.
Fontanesia phillyraeoides.
Forestiera acununata,
Forestiera ligustrina.
Forsythia intermedia.
Forsythia suspense.
Forsythia suspensa var. For-
tunei.
Forsythia viridissima.
Fothergilla Gardenii.
Fothergilla major.
Fothergilla parviflora.
Genista germanica.
Genista tinctoria.
Halimodendron halodendro.
Hamamelis virginiana,
Hibiscus syriacus.
Hippophae rhamnoides.
Hydrangea arborcscens.
Hydrangea arborcscens var.
sterilis.
Hydrangea Hortensia.
Hydrangea paniculata.
Hydrangea paniculata var.
grandiflora. Phyeocarpue opulifolius var.
Hydrangea paniculata var. prae aureus.
cox. Pieris mariana.
Hydrangea querqi folia. Poncirus trifoliata.
Hydrangea radiata. Potentilla fruticosa.
Hypericum aureum. Prunus japonica.
Hypericum calycinum. Prunus marítima.
Hypericum densiflorum. Prunus pumila.
Hypericum glomeratum. Prunus triloba.
Hypericum lobocarpum. Punica Granatum.
Hypericum Moserianum. Rhamnus cathartica.
Hypericum nudiflorum. Rhamnus Frangula.
Hypericum prolificum. Rhododendron canadenee.
Ilex decidus. Rhodotypos kerrioides.
Ilex verticillata. Rhus canadensis.
Indigofera Gerardiana. Rhus Michauxii.
Itea yirginica. Ribes curvatum.
Jasminum fruticans. Ribes nigrum.
Jasminum humile. Ribes sanguineum.
Jasminum nudiflorum. Robinia hispida.
Jasminum officinale, Rosa blanda.
Kerria japonica. Rosa Carolina.
Kerria japonica var. argentco- Rosa rubiginosa
variegata. Rosa rugosa.
Kerria japónica var. flore-plcno. Rosa setigera.
Lagerstroemia indica. Roses, Bourbon.
Lespedeza bicolor. Roses, Brier and Penzance
Leepedeza Sieboldii. Sweetbriers.
Ligustrum acuminatum. Roses, Hybrid Perpetual.
Ligustrum amurense. Roses, Hybrid Tea,
Ligustrum Ibota. Roses, Japanese.
Liguetrum Ibota var. Regel- Roses, Monthly or China.
ianum. Roses, Moes.
Ligustrum ovalifolium. Roses, Polyantha.
Ligustrum vulgare. Roses, Tea.
Lonicera bella. Rosmarinus officinalis.
Lonicera fragrantissima. Rubus laciniatus.
Lonicera Morrowii. Salvia Greggii.
Salix diecolor. Salvia Greggii var. alba.
Lonicera muscaviensis. Spartium junoeum.
Lonicera pyrenaica. Spiraea alba.
Lonicera Ruprechtiana. Spiraea albiflora.
Lonicera spinosa. Spiraea arguta.
Lonicera Standishii. Spiraea Billardii.
Lonicera tatarica. Spiraea Billardii var. longi*
Lonicera thibetica. pedunculata.
Lonicera Xylosteum. Spiraea blands.
Meratia praecox. Spiraea Bumalda.
Muehlenbeckia complexa. Spiraea cantoniensis.
Myrica carolinensis. Spiraea cantoniensis flore-pleno.
Myrica cerífera. Spiraea Douglasii.
Myriea Gale. Spiraea Fontenaysii.
Myricaria germanica. Spiraea Fortunei var. semper-
Neviusia alabamensis. florens.
Paliurus Spina-Chrieti. Spiraea Froebelii.
Philadelphus, Avalanche. Spiraea japonica.
Philadelphus, Mont Blanc. Spiraea macrophylla.
Philadelphus coronarius. Spiraea nipponica.
Philadelphus coronarius var. Spiraea prunifolia .
flore-pleno.
Philadelphus Falconeri.
Philadelphus floridus. Spiraea prunifolia flore-pleno.

Spiraea revirescens. Syringa villosa.
Spiraea Schinabeekii. Syringa vulgaris.
Spiraea Thunbergii. Tamarix gallica.
Spiraea tomentosa. Tamarix gallica var. indica.
Spiraea trilobate. Tamarix juniperina.
Spiraea Van Houttei. Tamarix odeseana.
Spiraea virginiana. Tamarix parviflora.
Staphylea Bumalda. Vaccinium arboreum.
Stuphylea colchica. Vaccinium corymbosum.
Staphylea pinnata. Viburnum dentatum.
Staphylea trifolia. Viburnum dilatatum.
Stephanandra incisa. Viburnum Lantana.
Stewartia pentagyna. Viburnum macrocephalum.
Styrax americana. Viburnum macrocephalum var.
Styrax japonica. sterile.
Styrax Obassia. Viburnum nudum.
Symphoricarpos albus. Viburnum Opulus.
Symphoricarpos microphyllus. Viburnum Opulus var. nanum.
Symphoricarpos occidentalis. Viburnum Opulus var. sterile.
Symphoricarpos orbiculatus. Vitex Agnus-castus.
Syringa chinensis. Vitex incisa.
Syringa Josikea. Xanthorrhiza apiifolia.
Syringa pekinensis. Zenobia speciosa.
Syringa persica.

Vines for the Piedmont Zone.

Actinidia arguta. Kadeura japonica.
Actinidia chinensis. Lonicera americana.
Actinidia Kolomitka. Lonicera chinensis.
Akebia lobata, Lonicera flava.
Akebia quinata. Lonicera glaucescens.
Ampelopsis arborea. Lonicera Heckrottii.
Antigonon leptopus. Lonicera japonica.
Aristolochia macrophylla. Lonicera japonica var. aureo-
Berchemia racemosa. reticulata.
Bignonia capreolata, Lonicera Periclymenum var
Campsis chinensis. belgica.
Campsis hybrida. Lonicera prolifera.
Campsis, Mme. Gallen. Lonicera sempervirens.
Campsís radicans. Lonicera Vilmorinii.
Celaetrus orbiculatue. Menispermum canadense,
Clematis apiifolia. Parthenocissus Henryana.
Clematis crispa. Parthenocissus quinquefolia.
Clematis Flammula. Parthenocissus quinquefolia
Clematis hybrida. var. Engelmannii.
Clematis texensis. Parthenocissus tricuspidata var.
Clematis Viorna. Veitchii.
Clematis virginiana. Passiflora caerulea.
Decumaria barbara. Periploca graeca.
Dioscorea Batatas. Polygonum baldschuanicum.
Elaeagnus reflxa. Pueraria hirsuta.
Evonymus radicans. Solanum jasminoides var. gran-
Evonymus radicans var. varie- diflorum.
gata. Trachelospermum jasminodes.
Evonymus radicans var. vegeta. Vitis aestivalis.
Ficus pumila. Vitis cordifolia.
Gclsemium sempervirens. Vitis Labrusca.
Gelsemium scmpervirens flore- Vitis rotundifolia.
pleno. Wisteria chinensis.
Hedera canariensis. Wisteria chinensis var. alba.
Hedera helix. Wisteria chinensis flore-pleno.
Humulus Lupulus. Wisteria multijuga.
Hydrangea petiolaris. Wisteria speciosa.

Broad-leaved evergreens for the Piedmont Zone.

Abelia floribunda. Cotoneaster rotundifolia var.
Abelia grandiflora. lanata.
Arbutus Unedo. Cotoneaster Simonsii.
Ardisia crenulata var. rubra. Cotoneaster thymifolia.
Aucuba japonica. Daphne Cneorum.
Aucuba japonica var. lati- Elaeagnus macrophylla.
maculata. Elaeagnus pungens.
Azalea amoena. Elaeagnus pungens var. Simoni.
Azalea indica. Elaeagnus variegata.
Azalea indica Kaempferi (Sar Eriobotrya japonica.
gent's hybrids). Escallonia montevidensis.
Azalea obtusa. Escallonia virgata.
Berberis buxifolia. Evonymus japonica.
Berberis Darwinii. Evonymue japonica var. aureo-
Berberis hakecides. variegata.
Berberis ilicifolia. Evonymus japonica var. micro
Berberis Neubertii. phylla.
Berberis Sargentiana. Fuchsia corallina.
Berberis stenophylla. Fuchsia gracilis.
Buxus japonica var. aurea. Gardenia josminoides.
Buxus sempervirens. Gardenia jasminoides var. For-
Buxus sempervirens var. Hand- tuniana.
worthii. Gardenia jasminoides var. radi
Buxus sempervirens var. suf- cans.
fruticosa. Gardenia jasminoides var.
Callistennon lanceolatus. Veitchii.
Calluna vulgaris. Ilex Aquifplium.
Calluna vulgaris var. alba. Ilex Aquifolium var. aureo-
Camellia japonica. regina.
Cleyera ochnacea. Ilex Aquifolium var. ferox.
Cotoneaster horizontalis. Ilex crenata
Cotoneaster microphylla. Ilex glabra.
Cotoneaster microphylla var. Ilex integra.
glacialis, Ilex latifolia.
Cotoneaster rotundifolia. Ilex vomitoria.

Illicium anisatum. Photinia serrulata.
Ixora chinensis. Pieris floribunda,
Kalmia angustifolia. Pieris japonica.
Kalmia latifolia. Pittosporum Tobira.
Laurus nobilis. Prunus caroliniana.
Leiophyllum buxifolium. Prunus Laurocerasus var. schip-
Leucothoe Catesbaei. kaensis.
Leucothoe populifolia. Prunus lusitanica.
Ligustrum coriaceum. Pyracantha coccinea.
Ligustrum excelsum superbum. Pyracantha coccinea var La-
Ligustrum japonicum. landii.
Ligustrum lucidum. Raphiolepsis indica.
Ligustrum macrophyllum. Rhododendron arboreum.
Ligustrum marginatum aureum. Rhododendron arbutifolium.
Liguetrum nepalense. Rhododendron catawbiense.
Ligustrum Quihoui. Rhododendron catawbiense hy-
Ligustrum sinense. bridum.
Mahonia Aquifolium. Rhododendron maximum.
Mahonia japonica. Rhododendron myrtifolium.
Mahonia repens. Rhododendron ponticum.
Mahonia pinnata. Rhododendron punctatum.
Michelia fuscata. Skimmia japonica.
Myrtus communis. Thea sinensis.
Nandina domestica. Veronica Traversii.
Nerium. Viburnum odoratissimum.
Osmanthus Aquifolium. Viburnum suspensum
Osmanthus fragrans. Viburnum Tinus.
Osmanthus Fortunei. Yucca filamentosa.
Pernettya mucronata. Yucca glauca.
Pernettya speciosa. Yucca gloriosa.
Phillyrea angustifolia. Yucca Treculeana.
Phillyrca decora.

2. Coastal Zone extends from the Fall Line, as outlined under the Piedmont Zone, to the Atlantic Ocean and Gulf of Mexico, but exclusive of that part of Florida south of a line drawn across the state to St. Augustine and Cedar Keys.

Deciduous shrubs for the Coastal Zone.

Acacia Farnesiana. Cornus Amomum.
Acanthopanax pentaphyllus. Cornus sanguinea.
Aesculus octanara. Coronilla Emerus.
Aesculus Pavia. Corylus americana.
Amelanchier rotundifolia. Cotoneaeter multiflora.
Amorpha canescens. Cotoneaster racemiflora.
Amorpha fruticosa. Deutzia rosea.
Aronia arbutifolia. Deutzia Lemoinei.
Azalea arborescens. Deutzia scabra var. candidis-
Azalea lutea. sima.
Azalea nudiflora. Deutzia scabra var. flore-pleno
Azalea viscosa. rosea.
Berberis aristata. Deutzia scabra. Pride of
Berberis sinensis. Rochester.
Berberis Thunbergii. Deutzia Sieboldiana.
Berberis vulgaris. Diervilla florida.
Berberis vulgaris var. atro- Diervilla hybrida.
purpurea. Dirca palustris.
Buddleia Davidii. Elaeagnus angustifolia.
Buddleia Davidii var. magnifica. Elaeagnus multiflora
Buddleia intermedia. Elaeagnus parvifolia.
Buddleia japonica. Elaeagnus umbellata.
Buddleia Lindleyana. Erythrina Crista-galli.
Buddleia officinalis. Evonymus alata.
Caesalpinia Pillesii. Evonymus americana.
Callicarpa americana. Evonymus europaea.
Callicarpa purpurea. Evonymus nana.
Calycanthus fertilis. Evonymue patens.
Calycanthus florida. Exochorda Korolkowii.
Calycanthus occidentalis. Exochorda racemosa.
Caryopteris incana Fontanesia Fortunei.
Cassia macrantha. Fontanesia phillyraeoides.
Ceanothus americanus. Forsythia intermedia.
Ceanothus hybridus, Forsythia suspensa.
Cephalanthus occidentalis. Forsythia suspensa var. For
Cercis japonica. tunei.
Cercis Siliquastrum. Forsythia viridissima.
Chaenomeles japonica. Halimodendron halodendron
Chilopsis saligna. Hamamelis virginiana.
Clerodendron trichotomum. Hibiscus syriacus.
Clethra alnifolia. Hippophae rhamnoides.
Cornus alba. Hydrangea arborescens.

Hydrangea arborescens var. Rhus Michauxii.
sterilis. Ribes curvatum.
Hydrangea Hortensia. Robinia hispida.
Hydrangea quercifolia. Rosmarinus officinalia.
Hypericum calycinum. Rosa Carolina.
Hypericum densiflorum. Rosa rugosa.
Hypericum glomeratum. Rosa setigera.
Hypericum lobocarpum. Roses, Bourbon.
Hypericum Moserianum. Roses, Brier and Penzance
Hypericum prolificum. Sweetbriers.
Ilex decidua. Roses, Hybrid Perpetual.
Ilex verticillata. Roses, Hybrid Tea.
Indigofera Gerardiana, Roses, Japanese.
Itea virginica. Roses, Monthly or China.
Jasminum fruticans. Roses, Polyantha.
Jaaminum humile. Roses, Tea.
Jaaminum nudiflorum. Rubus laciniatus.
Jasminum officinale. Salix incana.
Kerria japonica. Salix sericea
Kerria japonica var. argenteo- Salvia Greggii.
variegata. Salvia Greggii var
Kerria japonica var. flore-pleno. alba.
Lagerstroemia indica. Sambucus canodensis
Lespedeza bicolor. Sambucus nigra.
Leapedeza Sieboldii. Sambucus nigra var.
Ligustrum acuminatum. laciniata
Liguatrum amurense. Spartium junceum.
Liguatrum Ibota. Spiraea albiflora.
Ligustrum Ibota var. Regel- Spiriea arguta.
ianum. Spiriea Billardii.
Ligustrum ovalifolium. Spiriea blanda.
Ligustrum vulgare. Spiraea Bumalda.
Lonicera bella. Spiraea cantonensis.
Lonicera fragrantissima. Spiraea cantonensis
Lonicera gracilipes. flore-pleno.
Lonicera Morrowii. Spiraea Douglasii.
Lonicera Ruprechtiana. Spirwa Fontenaysii.
Lonicera Standishii. Spirwa Fortunei var.
Lonicera tatarica. semperflorens.
Lycium halimifolium. Spiraea Froebelii.
Meratia praecox. Spiraea japonica.
Myriea carolinensis. Spiraea macrophylla.
Myriea cerifera. Spiraea prunifolia.
Myriearia germanica. Spiraea prunifolia
Neviusia alabamensia. flore-pleno.
Paliurus Spina-Christi. Spiraea revirescens.
Philadelphus coronarius. Spiraea Thunbergii.
Philadelphus coronarius var. Spiraea Van Houttei.
flore-pleno. Stephanandra incisa.
Philadelphus grandiflorus (cor- Stewartia pentagyna.
onarius var.). Styrax americana.
Philadelphus inodorus, Styrax japonica.
Philadelphus pubescens. Symphoricarpos microphyllus.
Philadelphus laxus. Symphoricarpos orbiculatus.
Philadelphus Lemoinei. Syringa chinensis.
Philadelphus Lewisii. Syringa pekinensis.
Philadelphia pubescens. Syringa persica.
Philadelphus, Avalanche. Tamarix gallica.
Philadelphus, Mont Blanc. Tamarix gallica var.indica.
Physpcarpua opulifolius. Tamarix juniperina.
Poncirus trifoliata. Tamarix hispida var. GPstivalia.
Potentilla fruticosa. Tamarix odessana.
Prunua japonica. Tamarix parviflora.
Prunus maritima. Viburnum macrocephalum.
Prunus pumila. Viburnum nudum.
Prunus triloba. Viburnum Opulus var. sterile.
Punica granatum. Vitex Agnua-caatUB.
Hhamnus catbartica. Vitex incisa.
Rhodotypos kerrioides. Zenobia speciosa.
Rhus canadensis.

Vines for the Coastal Zone.

Akebia quinata. Kadsura japonica.
Akebia lobata. Lonicera amcricans.
Ampelopsis arborea. Lonicera chinensis.
Ampelopsis heterophylla var. Lonicera flava.
elegans. Lonicera glaucescens.
Antigonon leptopus. Lonicera Heckrottii.
Berchemia racemosa. Lonicera japonica.
Bignonia capreolata. Lonicera japonica var. aureo-
Campsis chineiisis. reticulata.
Campsis hybrida. Lonicera Periclymenum var.
Campsis. Mme. Gallen. belgica.'
Campsis radicans. Lonicera prolifera.
Clematis crispa. Lonicera sempervirens.
Clematis Flammula. Lonicera Vilmorinii.
Clematis paniculuta. Parthenocissus Henryana.
Clematis texenais. Parthenocissus quinquefolia.
Decumaria barbara. Parthenocissus quinquefolia
Dioscorea Batatas var. Engelmannii.
Elaeagnus reflexa. Parthenocissus tricuspidata var.
Evonymus radicans. Veitchii.
Evonymus radicana var. varie- Passiflora caerulea.
gata. Periploca gra?ca.
Ficus pumila. Polygonum baldschuanicum
Gelsemium sempervirena. Pueraria hirsuta.
Gelsemium sempervirens flore- Pyrostegia venusta.
pleno. Solanum jasminoides var. gran-
Hedera canariensis. diflorum.
Hedera helix. Trachelospermum jasminoides.
Jasminum primulinum. Vitis aestivalis.
Vitis cordifolia. Wisteria chinensis var. flore
Vitis rotundifolia. pleno.
Wisteria chinensis. Wisteria multijuga.
Wisteria chinensis var. alba. Wisteria speciosa.

Broad-leaved evergreens for the Coastal Zone.

Abelia floribunda. lex integra.
Abelia grandiflora. Ilex latifolia.
Arbutus Unedo. Ilex vomitoria.
Ardisia crenulata var.rubra. Illicium anisatum.
Azalea amoena. Ixora chinensis.
Azalea indica. Kalmia latifolia.
Azalea obtusa. Laurus nobilis.

Berbcns buxifolia. Leiophyllum buxifolium.
Berbcria Darwinii. Leucothoe Cateabffi.
Berberis ilicifolia. Leucothoe populifolia.
Berberis Neubertii. Leucothoe racemosa.
Berheria stenophylla. Ligustrum excelsum superbum.
Buxus japonica var. aurea. Ligustrum iaponicum.
Buxus sempervirens. Ligustrum lucidum.
Buxus sempervirens var. Hand- Ligustrum macrophyllum.
worthii. Ligustrum marginatum
Buxus sempervirens var. suf- aureum.
fruticosa. Liguatrum nepalense.
Callistemon lanceolatus. Ligustrum Quihoui.
Camellia japonica. Ligustrum sinense.
Cleyera ochnacea. Mahonia Aquifolium.
Cotoneaster horizontalis. Mahonia japonica.
Cotoneaster microphylla. Michelia fuscata.
Cotoneaster microphylla var. Myrtus communis.
glacialis. Nandina domestica.
Cotoneaater rotundifolia. Nerium.
Cotoneaster rotundifolia var. Osmanthus Aquifolium.
Janata. Osmanthua Fortunei.
Cotoneaster Simonsii. Osmnanthua fragrans.
Cotoneaster thymifolia. Pernettya mucronata.
Elaeagnus macrophylla. Pernettya speciosa.
Elaeagnus pungens. Phillyrea anguatifolia.
Elaeagnus pungens var. Simoni. Phillyrea decora.
Elaeagnus variegata. Photinia serrulata.
Eriobotrya japonica. Pieris floribunda.
Escallonia virgata. Pieris japonica.
Escallonia montevidensis. Pittosporum Tobira,
Evonymus japonica. Prunus caroliniana.
Evonymus japonica var. aureo- Prunus Laurocerasus.
variegata. Prunus Laurocerasus var.
Evonymus japonica var. micro schipkaenais.
phylla. Prunus lusitanica
Fuchsia corallina. Pyracantha coccinea.
Fuchsia gracilis. Pyracantha coccinea var. La-
Gardenia jasminoides. landii.
Gardenia jasminoides var. For- Raphiolepsis indica.
tuniana. Thea sinensis.
Gardenia jasminoides var. radi Viburnum odoratissimum.
cans. Viburnum suspensum.
Gardenia jaaminoides var. Viburnum Tinus.
Veitchii. Yucca aloifolia.
Ilex cornuta. Yucca filamentosa.
Ilex crenata. Yucca gloriosa.
Ilex glabra. Yucca Treculeana
3. Mountain or Upper Zone includes all that territory above Harper's Ferry, Maryland; Roanoke, Virginia; Winston-Salem, Morganton, and Rutherfordton, North Carolina; Spartanburg and Pendleton, South Carolina;
Gainesville and Cartersville, Georgia; Huntsville, Alabama; Murfreesboro, Tennessee, and thence north to the Kentucky line.

Deciduous shrubs for the Mountain or Upper Zone

Acanthopanax pentaphyllus. Elaeagnus angustifolía.
Acer japonica. Elaeagnua argentea.
Aesculus octandra Elaeagnus multiflora.
Aesculus Pavía. Elaeagnus parvifolia.
Amelanchier atropurpurea Elaeagnua umbellata.
Amelanchier canadensis. Evonymus alata.
Amelanchier rutundifolia. Evonymus americana.
Amorpha canescens. Evonymus Bungeana.
Amorpha fruticosa. Evonymus europaea.
Amorpha glabra. Evonymus Maackii.
Amorpha tennesseensis. Evonymus nana.
Aralia chinensis var. mand- Evonymus patens.
schurica. Exochorda Korolkowii.
Aronia arbutifolia. Exochorda racemosa.
Aronia melanocarpa. Fontanesia Fortunei.
Ascyrum hypericoides. Fontanesia phillyraeoides.
Baccharis halimifolia. Forestiera acuminata.
Bensoin aestivale. Foreatiera ligustrina.
Berberís asiatica. Forsythia intermedia.
Berberís canadensis. Forsythia suspensa.
Berberís heteropoda. Forsythia suspensa var. For
Berberís Sieboldii. tunei.
Berberís sinensis. Forsythia viridissima.
Berberís Thunbergii. Fothergilla Gardenii.
Berberís vulgaris. Fothergilla major.
Berberís vulgaris var. atro Fothergilla parviflora.
purpurea. Genista germanica.
Buckleya distichophylla. Genista tinctoria,
Buddleia Davidii var. magnifica Halimodendron halodendron.
Buddleia intermedia. Hamamelis virginiana.
Buddleia japonica. Hibiscus syriacus.
Buddleia Lindleyana. Hippophae rhamnoides.
Callicarpa americana. Holodiscus discolor.
Callicarpa purpurea, Hydrangea arborescens.
Calycanthus fertilis. Hydrangea arborescens var.
Calycanthus florida. sterilis.
Calycanthus occidentalis. Hydrangea Hortensia.
Caragana arborescens. Hydrangea paniculata.
Caragana Chamlagu. Hydrangea paniculata var.
Ceanothus americanus. grandiflora.
Ceanothus Fendleri. Hydrangea paniculata var. prae
Ceanothus hybridus. cox.
Cephalanthus occidentalis. Hydrangea quercifolia.
Cercis chinensis. Hydrangea radiata.
Cercis Siliquastrum. Hypericum aureum.
Chaenomeles japonica. Hypericum calycinum.
Chilopsis saligna. Hypericum densiflorum.
Clerodendron trichotomum. Hypericum glomeratum
Clethra alnifolia. Hypericum lobocarpum.
Colutea arborescens. Hypericum Moserianum.
Comptonia asplenifolia. Hypericum nudiflorum.
Cornus alba. Hypericum prolificum.
Cornus alba var. Spaethii. Ilex decidua.
Cornus Amomum. Ilex verticillata.
Cornus mas. Indigofera Gerardiana.
Cornus racemosa. Itea virginica.
Cornus rugosa. Jasminum fruticans.
Cornus sanguínea. Jasminum humile.
Cornus stolonifera. Jasminum nudiflorum.
Cornus stolonifera var. flavi Jasminum officinale.
ramea. Kerria japonica.
Coronilla Emerus. Kerria japonica var. argenteo
Corylopsis pauciflora. variegata.
Corylus americana. Kerria japonica flore-pleno.
Corylus Avellana. Lagerstroemeria indica.
Corylua Avellana var. laciniata.Lespedeza bicolor.
Corylus maxima var. purpurea. Leapedeza Sieboldii.
Corylus rostrata. Leucothoe racemosa.
Cotoneaster acutifolia. Leucothoe recurva.
Cotoneaster multiflora. Ligustrum acuminatum.
Cotoneaster racemiflora. Ligustrum amurense.
Cratffgus coccínea. Ligustrum Ibota,
Crataegus Oxyacantha. Ligustrum Ibota var. Regel
Crataegus Phaenopyrum. ianum.
Cytisus praecox. Ligustrum ovalifolium.
Cytisus scoparius. Ligustrum vulgare.
Daphne Mexereum vars, alba Lonicera bella.
and rubra. Lonicera fragrantissima.
Daphne Genkwa. Lonicera gracilipes.
Deutzia gracilis. Lonicera Morrowii.
Deutzia Lemoinei. Lonicera muscaviensis.
Deutzia rosea. Lonicera pyrenaica.
Deutzia scabra. Lonicera Ruprechtiana.
Deutzia scabra var. candidis Lonicera spinosa.
sima. Lonicera Standishii.
Deutzia scabra var. plena. Lonicera tatarica.
Deutzia scabra, Pride of Lonicera thibetica.
Rochester. Lonicera Xylosteum.
Deutzia Sieboldiana. Lycium vulgare.
Diervilla florida. Lyonia ligustrina.
Diervilla hybrida. Menziesia pilosa.
Diervilla rivularis. Meratia praecox.
Diervilla sessilifolia. Muehlenbeckia complexa.
Dirca palustris. Myrica carolinensis.
Myrica cerifera. Spiraea albiflora.
Myrica Gale. Spiraea arguta.
Myricaria germanica. Spiraea bethlehemensis var.
Neviusia alabamensis. rubra.
Paliurus Spina-Christi. Spiraea Billardii.
Philadelphus coronarius. Spiraea Billardii var. longi-
Philadelphus coronarius var. pedunculata.
flore-pleno. Spiraea blanda.
Philadelphus Falconeri. Spiraea Bumalda.
Philadelphus floridus. Spiraea californica.
Philadelphus gloriosus. Spiraea cantonenais.
Philadolphus grandiflorus (cor Spiraea cantonenais flore-
onarius var.). pleno.
Philadelphus hirsutus. Spiraea crenata.
Philadelphus inodorus. Spiraea Douglasii.
Philadelphus laxus. Spiraea eximia.
Philadelphus Lemoinei. Spiraea Fontenaysii.
Philadelphus Lewisii. Spiraea Fortuner var. semper-
Philadelphus pubescens. florens.
Philadelphus, Avalanche. Spiraea Froebelii.
Philadelphus, Mont Blanc. Spiraea japonica.
Photinia villosa. Spiraea Lenneana.
Physocarpus opulifoliua. Spiraea macrophylla.
Physocarpus opulifoliua var. Spiraea Margaritae.
aureus. Spiraea Menziesii.
Pieris mariana. Spiraea nipponica.
Poncirus trifoliata. Spiraea prunifolia.
Potentilla fruticosa. Spiraea prunifolia flore-pleno,
Prunus Besseyi. Spiraea Schinabeckii.
Prunus incana. Spiraea Thunbergii.
Prunus japonica. Spiraea trilobata.
Prunus marítima. Spiraea Van Houttei.
Prunus pumila. Spiraea revirescens.
Prunue triloba. Spiraea syringaeflora.
Punica Granatum. Spiraea tomentosa.
Rhamnus cathartica. Spiraea virginiana.
Rhamnus Frangula. Staphylea Bumalda.
Rhododendron arborescens. Staphylca colchica.
Rhododendron canadense. Staphylea pinnata.
Rhododendron gandavensis. Staphylea trifolia.
Rhododendron japonicum. Stephanandra incisa.
Rhododendron luteum. Stephanandra Tanakae.
Rhododendron nudiflorum. Stewartia pentagyna.
Rhododendron ponticum. Stewartia Pseudo-Camellia.
Rhododendron Vaseyi. Styrax americana.
Rhododendron viecosum. Styrax japonica.
Rhodotypos kerrioides. Styrax Obassia.
Rhus canadensis. Symphoricarpos albus.
Rhua Michauxii. Symphoricarpos microphyllus.
Ribes aureum. Symphoricarpos occidentalis.
Ribes curvatum. Symphoricarpos orbiculatus.
Ribes Cynosbatii. . Symphoricarpos ovatus.
Ríbes glandulosum. Syringa chinensis.
Ribes Gordonianum. Syringa Josikea.
Ribes nigrum. Syringa pekinensio.
Ribes rotundifolium. Syringa peraica.
Ribes sanguineum. Syringa villosa.
Robinia hispida. Syringa vulgaris.
Rosa alpina. Syringa vulgaris, named sorts.
Rosa blanda. Tamarix gallíca.
Rosa Carolina. Tamarix gallica var. indica.
Rosa rubiginosa. Tamarix hispida var. aestivalia.
Rosa rugosa. Tamarix juniperina.
Rosa setigera. Tamarix odessana.
Roses, Bourbon. Tamarix parviflora.
Roses Brier and Penzance Ulex europaeus.
Sweetbriers Ulex nanus.
Roses, Hybrid Perpetual. Vaccinium corymbosum.
Roses, Hybrid Tea. Vaccinium pallidum.
Roses, Japanese. Vaccinium pennsylvanicum.
Roses, Monthly or China, Viburnum acerifolium.
Roses, Moss. Viburnum alnifolium.
Roses, Polyantha Viburnum cassinoides.
Rosee, Tea. Viburnum dentatum.
Rosmarinus officinalis Viburnum dilatatum.
Rubus laciniatus. Viburnum Lantana.
Rubus odoratus. Viburnum macrocephalum.
Rubus parviflorus. Viburnum macroccphalum var.
Rubus rosoeflorus. sterile.
Salix discolor. Viburnum nudum.
Salix humilis. Viburnum Opulus.
Salix incana. Viburnum Opulus var.
Salix lucida. nanum.
Salix sericea. Viburnum Opulus var. sterile
Salix tristis. Viburnum Sieboldii.
Sambucus canadensis. Viburnum tomentosum.
Sambucus nigra. Viburnum tomentosum var.
Sambucus nigra var. laciniata. plenum.
Sambucus pubens. Vitex Agnus-castus.
Shepherdia argentea. Vitex incisa.
Spartium junceum. Xanthorrhiza apiifolia.
Spiraea alba. Zenobia speciosa.

Vines for the Mountain Zone.

Actinidia arguta. Ampelopsis heterophylla.
Actinidia Kolomitka. Ampelopsis heterophylla var
Akebia lobata. elegans.
Akebia quinata. Aristolochia macrophylla.
Ampelopsis arborea. Berchemia racemosa.
Ampelopsis cordata. Bignonia capreolata.

Brunnichia cirrhosa (a somewhat shrubby, tendril-climbing plant native in eastern United States ; allied to Polygonella).

Campsis chinensis,
Campsis hybridft.
Campsis, Mme. Gallen.
Campsis radicans.
Celastrus orbiculatus.
Celastrus scandens.
Clematis apiifolia.
Clematis crispa.
Clematis Flammula.
Clematis hybrida.
Clematis montana.
Clematis orientalis.
Clematis paniculata.
Clematis Viorna.
Clematis virginiana.
Clematis Vitalba.
Decumaria barbara.
Elaeagnus reflexa.
Evonymus radicans.
Evonymus radicans var. variegata.
Evonymus radicans yar. vegeta.
Gelaemium sempervirens.
Hedera helix.
Humulus Lupulus.
Hydrangea petiolaris.
Lonicera americana.
Lonicera chinensis.
Lonicera etrusca.
Lonicera flava.
Lonicera glaucescens.
Lonicera Heckrottii.
Lonicera japonica.
Lonicera japonica var. aureo-
reticulata.
Lonicera Periclymenum var.
belgica.
Lonicera prolifera.
Lonicera sempervirens.
Lonicera Vilmorinii.
Menispermum canadense.
Parthenocissus quinquefolia.
Parthenocissus quinquefolia
var. Engelmannii.
Parthenocissus tricuspidata var.
Veitchii.
Periploca graeca.
Polygonum cilinode.
Pueraria hirsuta.
Vitis aetivalia.
Vitis cordifolia.
Vitis Labrusca.
Vitis rotundifolia.
Wisteria chinensis.
Wisteria chinensis var. alba.
Wisteria chinensis flore-pleno.
Wisteria multijuga.
Wisteria speciosa.

Broad-leaved evergreens for the Mountain Zone.

Abelia grandiflora.
Andromeda polifolia.
Arctostaphylos Uva-ursi.
Azalea amoena.
Azalea indica (hardy sorts).
Azalea indica Kaempferi (Sargent's hybrids).
Azalea obtusa.
Berberis hakeoides.
Berberís ilicifolia.
Berberís Neubertii.
Berbería Sargentiana.
Buxus japonica var. aurea.
Buxus sempervirens.
Buxus sempervirens var. Hand- worthii.
Buxus sempervirena var suffru- ticosa.
Calluna vulgaris.
Calluna vulgaris var. alba.
Chamaedaphne calyculata.
Cotoneaster horizontalis.
Cotoneaster microphylla.
Cotoneaster microphylla var. glacialis.
Cotoneaster rotundifolia.
Cotoneaster rotundifolia var. lanata.
Cotoneaster Simonsii.
Cotoneaster thymifolia.
Daphne Blagayana.
Daphne Cneorum.
Elaeagnus macrophylla.
Elaeagnus variegata.
Ephedra distachya.
Erica carnea.
Erica stricta.
Erica Tetralix.
Erica vagans.
Evonymus japonica,
Evonymus japonica var. aureo- variegata.
Evonymus japonica var. microphylla.
Evonymus patens.
Ilex Aquifolium.
Ilex Aquifolium var. aureo-regina.
Ilex Aquifolium var. ferox.
Ilex Aquifolium var. ferox va- riega ta.
Ilex Aquifolium var. laurifolia.

Ilex cornuta.
Ilex glabra.
Ilex crenata.
Ilex vomitoria.
Kalmia angustifolia.
Kalmia glauca.
Kalmia latifolia.
Leiophyllum buxifolium.
Leiophyllum buxifolium var.
prostratum.
Leucothoe Catesbaei.
Leucothoe populifolia,
Ligustrum coriaceum.
Liguatrum japonicum.
Ligustrum lucidum.
Ligustrum macrophyllum.
Ligustrum nepalense.
Ligustrum Quihoui.
Liguatrum sinense.
Mahonia Aquifolium.
Mahonia japonica.
Mahonia pinnata.
Mahonia repens.
Nandina domestica.
Osmanthus Aquifolium.
Osmanthus Fortunei.
Phillyrea angustifolia.
Phillyrea decora.
Photinia serrulata.
Pieris floribunda.
Pieris japonica.
Prunus Laurocerasus.
Prunus Lnurocerasus var.
schipkaensis.
Prunus lusitanica.
Pyracantha coccinea.
Pyracantha coccinea var. La-
landii.
Rhododendron arboreum.
Rhododendron arbutifolium.
Rhododendron catawbiense.
Rhododendron catawbiense var.
hybridum.
Rhododendron maximum.
Rhododendron myrtifolium.
Rhododendron punctatum.
Rhododendron ponticum.
Rhododendron Wilsonii.
Skimmia japonica.
Veronica Traversii.
Yucca filamentosa.
Yucca glauca.
Yucca gloriosa.
Yucca Treculeana.

L. A. Berckmans.

Ornamental shrubs for California.

No pretensions have been made in compiling the following list to include every plant of desirable ornamental characteristics that will grow in California. Many exotics are being continually introduced, some of which have proved highly satisfactory, while others are little known. The effort has been rather to classify under various subheads those shrubs which are undoubtedly suited for the purpose indicated and which have proved themselves well adapted to the various sections of the state.
Many of the deciduous ornamental plants commonly employed in the eastern United States for landscape planting have purposely been omitted, as they fail to produce the same wonderful spring-flower effects under the different climatic conditions of California. Only such deciduous shrubs as bloom freely and seem to have become more or less adapted to the drier climate of this state are included.Because of the great variety of climatic and soil conditions throughout the state, it has become necessary to think of it as divided into three general regions,—the interior valleys, the San Francisco Bay district, and that part of southern California in the vicinity of the coast.
Those kinds marked with a dagger(+) will thrive only in southern California; those with a star (*) will grow in the South and as far north on the coast as the San Francisco Bay region, while such kinds as have no abbreviation attached will probably grow in all the cultivated areas of the state, including the large interior valleys. With one exception, the shrubs in the lists are arranged in the order of their desirability for the purposes described by the subhead. By cross-reference, the lists should prove helpful in selecting species of certain characteristics for given climatic and cultural conditions to produce the results desired.

Group I. Shrubs which are more or less resistant to conditions created by full shade.
While the larger number of these shrubs will produce the best results in half-shade, or even in full sun if -given sufficient water, they are more or less tolerant to conditions existing under live oak trees, in courts, or on the north sides of buildings.
Evergreen.
Vaccinium ovatum (3 feet).
* Tree ferns in variety (6 to 10 feet).
Aucuba japonica (4 feet).
* Coprosma Baueri (6 feet).
Evonymus in variety (6 to 8 feet).
Fatsia japonica (6 feet).
Mahonia in variety (4 feet).
Sollya heterophylla (3 feet).
Asystasia bella (3 feet).
Hypericum calycinum (1 foot).
Ligustrum in variety (6 to 10 feet).
Osmanthua in variety (3 to 10 feet).
Buxus sempervirens (2 to 8 feet).
* Abutilon striatum (8 feet).
Abelia grandiflora (6 feet).
Azalea indica (4 feet).
Hydrangea Hortensia (5 feet).
Nandina domestica (6 feet).
Berberis Darwinii (5 feet).
*Trachelospermum jaaminoides (3 feet).
Jasminum humile (6 feet).
*Fuchsia in variety (6 feet).
Myrtus communis (3 to 5 feet).
*Myrtus Ugni (4 feet).
Eugenia apiculata (8 feet).
*Philadelphus mexicanus (5 feet).
Cotoneaster horizontalis (2 to 3 feet).
*Reinwardtia trigyna (3 feet).

Deciduous.

Symphoricarpos racemosus (3 feet).
Ribes speciosum (3 feet).
Azalea sinense (3 feet).
Kerria japonica (6 feet).
Chaenomeles japonica (6 feet).

Group II. Shrubs which thrive most successfully in half- shades in California.
Many plants will produce the best results in full sun if favorable moisture conditions can be maintained throughout the summer, but the amount of sun exposure that plants in this list will withstand depends largelyon the section of the state in which they are located and on the amount of water they receive.Because of neglect aided by the long dry season, they often do better, however, in half-shade where the soil does
not dry out so rapidly.
Evergreen.

Daphne odora (3 feet).
Erica in variety (2 to 5 feet).
*Coprosma Baueri (6 feet).
Philadelphus mexicanus (5 feet).
Abelia grandiflora (6 feet).
Sollya heterophylla (3 feet).
*Fuchsia in variety (6 feet).
Azara microphylla (8 feet).
Hydrangea Hortensia (5 feet)
Cotoneaster horizontails (2 to 3 feet).
Camellia in variety(8 feet).
Hypericum calycinum (1 foot).
Hypericum Moserianum (3 feet).
Mahonia in variety (4 feet).
Fatsia japonica (6 feet).
*Abutilon striatum (8 feet).
*Trachelospermum jasminoides (3 feet).
Aucuba japonica (4 feet).
Nandina domestica (6 feet).
Escallonia rubra (6 feet).
Pittosporum Tobira(12 feet).
Pittoaporum heterophyllum (3 feet).
Cuphea in variety (2 feet).
Clerodendron in variety (6 feet).
Buxus in variety (2 to 8 feet).
*Cestrum in variety(8 feet).
Cornus capitata (10 feet).
Azalea in variety (4 feet).

Rhododendron in variety (5 feet).
Osmanthus in variety (3 to 10 feet).
Michelia fuscata (6 feet).
Pyracantha crenulata (6 feet).
Viburnum Tinus var. lucidum (10 feet).
Garrya elliptica (8 feet).
Arbutus Menziesii (25 feet).
* Myrtus Ugni (4 feet).
Ilex Aquifolium (6 to 10 feet).
Maytenue Boaria (10 to 20 feet).
* Heliotropium in variety (4 feet).
* Plumbago capensis (4 feet).
* Statice in variety (2 feet).
Chorisema ilicifolium (5 feet).
Ternstroemia japonica (8 feet).
Asystasia bella (3 feet).
* Tibouchina splendens (5 feet).
*Jacobinia in variety (3 feet).
Strobilanthes Dyerianus (5 feet).
Templetonia retusa (3 feet).
Thevetia nereifolia (8 feet).
* Melianthus major (4 feet).
* Tree ferns in variety (6 to 10 feet).
Prunus Laurocerasus (8 to 10 feet ).

Deciduous.

Chaenomeles japonica (6 feet).
Diervilla in variety (8 feet).
Kerria japonica (6 feet).
Deutzia in variety (4 feet).
Berberís Thunbergii (3 feet).
Paeonia suffruticosa (3 feet).
Rhododendron, Hinodigiri (3 feet).
Rhododendron sinense (3 feet).
Ribes in variety (6 to 8 feet).
Philadelphus in variety (6 feet).
spiraea Van Houttei (4 feet).
Spiraea cantoniensis (5 feet).
Viburnum Opulus var. sterile (8 feet).
Viburnum tomentosum var. plicatum (6 feet).
Syringa in variety (6 to 10 feet).
Magnolia in variety (6 to 10 feet).

Group III. Shrubs which thrive most successfully in protected sunny locations.
Many plants, native of countries warmer than California, require warm moist situations.
Evergreen.
Acacia in variety (5 to 20 feet).
Acocanthera spectabilis (6 feet).
Bauhinia in variety (8 to 10 feet).
Berberis Darwinii (6 to 8 feet ).
Bouvardia Humboldtii (5 feet).
* Buddleia Davidii var. Veitchiana (6 to 8 feet).
* Cantua buxifolia (8 feet).
* Carissa grandiflora (4 feet).
* Cassia in variety (4 to 10 feet).

Choisya ternata (6 feet).
Cistus in variety (2 to 4 feet ).
Cotoneaster in variety (2 to 8 feet).

Cytisus in variety (6 to 8 feet).
* Diosma ericoides (4 feet).
Dombeya natalensis (10 to 12 feet).
Dombeya spectabilis (8 to 10 feet).
* Duranta Plumieri (6 to 8 feet).

Escallonia montevidensis (8 feet).
Escallonia pulverulenta (8 to 10 feet).
Eecallonia rosea (8 feet).
Eugenia apiculata (8 feet).

Eugenia jambolana (10 to 15 feet).
* Eugenia myrtifolia (10 to 15 feet).
Eugenia uniflora (6 to 8 feet).
Euphorbia pulcherrima (6 to 8 feet).

Feijoa Sellowiana (8 feet).
* Genista monosperma (6 to 8 fret).
* Grevillea Thelemanniana (4 feet).
* Hardenbergia monophylla (5 feet).
Hibiscus heterophyllus (8 feet),
Hibiscus Rosa-sinensis (8 to 10 feet),
Iochroma in variety (8 to 10 feet).
Jasminum humile (6 feet).
* Lantana in variety (4 to 6 feet).
Leptospermum scoparium var. Chapmannii (8 feet).
Leptospermum scoparium var. Nichollii (4 to 6 feet).
Leptoepermum scoparium var. bullatum (4 feet).
Leptospermum laevigatum (6 to 10 feet).
Lonicera nitida (4 to 6 feet).
* Malvaviscus mollis (6 feet).
Melaleuca in variety (6 to 10 feet).
Metrosideros lucida (6 feet).
Metrosideros robusta (8 feet).
Myrtus communis (3 to 5 feet,).
Nerium Oleander (8 to 10 feet).
Oxera pulchella (2 to 4 feet).
Photinia scrrulata (10 to 12 feet).
Pimelea ferruginea (4 to 6 feet).

Pittosporum eugenioides (10 to 15 feet).
* Pittosporum rhombifolium (10 to 15 feet).
Pittosporum tenuifolium (10 to 15 feet).

*Pittosporum undulatum (10 to 15 feet).
*Pittosporum viridiflorum (8 to 10 feet).
Polygala Dalmaisiana (3 to 5 feet).
Prunus lusitanica (8 feet).
* Psidium Cattleianum (3 to 6 feet).
Pyracantha angustifolia (6 feet).
Pyracantha coccinea (6 to 8 feet).
Quillaja Saponaria (10 to 15 feet).
* Raphiolepis indica (6 to 8 feet).
Raphiolepia umbellata (4 to 6 feet).
*Rhodorhiza florida (6 feet).
* Salvia Sessei (6 feet).
* Sparmannia africana (8 feet).
Spartiurn junceum (6 to 8 feet).
+ Sphaeralcea umbellata (8 feet).
* Solanum Rantonnetii (6 feet).
* Streptosolen Jamesonii (3 to 6 feet).
* Tecoma capensis (8 feet).
* Tecoma Smithii (6 to 8 feet).
*Tithonia diversifolia (8 to 10 feet).
Veronica in variety (2 to 6 feet).
Viburnum suspensum (6 feet).
* Wigandia oaracasana (8 to 10 feet).

Group IV. Shrubs resistant to soil and climatic conditions along the California seacoast.The plants in this list are fairly resistant to the effects of strong prevailing winds and thrive in dry sandy soils containing more or less salt and are therefore valuable for windbreaks and shelter plantings. In general, the finer the foliage and the more willowy or wire-like the branches, the more easily do they withstand the trying conditions. A noticeable exception is some few kinds of hardy palms which thrive under such conditions because of the stiff character of their leaves and stems.

Evergreen.

Cupressus macrocarpa (10 to 20 feet).
Tamarix in variety (8 feet).
Myrica californica (8 to 10 feet).
Acacia longifolia (6 to 10 feet).
* Atriplex Breweri (6 feet).
Casuarina in variety (10 to 25 feet).
* Coproama Baucri (6 feet).
Rhus integrifolia (6 feet).

Leptospermum in variety (6 to 10 feet).
Melaleuca in variety (6 to 10 feet).
Callistemon in variety (4 to 8 feet).
Myoporum laetum (8 to 12 feet).
Veronica in variety (2 to 6 feet).
* Anthyllis Barba-Jovis (4 to 6 feet).

Juniperus in variety (2 to 8 feet).
Ulex europaeus (6 feet).
Rhamnus californica (8 to 10 feet).

Ceanothus thyrsiflorus (6 to 10 feet).
Acacia melanoxylon (10 to 25 feet).
Acacia Farnesiana (10 to 12 feet).
Acacia armata (6 to 8 feet).

Coronilla glauca (4 to 6 feet).
Pittosporum crassifolium (10 to 15 feet).
Pittoeporum phillyraeoidca (10 to 15 feet).
Pittosporum Tobira (8 to 10 feet).
Escallonia rubra (6 feet).
Dodonaea in variety (8 feet).
Spartium junceum (6 to 8 feet).
Lyonthamnus floribundus var. asplenifolius (15 to 20 feet).
Medicago arborea (6 feet).
Cytisus in variety (6 to 8 feet).
Metrosideros tomentosa (6 to 12 feet).
Phillyrea latifolia (10 feet).
Polygala Dalmaisiana (3 to 5 feet).
Maytenus Boaria (10 to 20 feet).
Hakea in variety (8 to 10 feet).
Lycium chinense (6 feet).
Ceratonia Siliqua (8 to 12 feet).
Elaeagnus pungens (6 feet).
Artemisia arborescens (6 feet).
* Statice in variety (1 foot).
* Fieus macrophylla (10 to 20 feet).
* Echium in variety (4 to 6 feet).

Palms.

Chamaerops humilis (6 feet).
Phoenix canariensis (15 feet).
Phoenix dactylifera (20 feet).
Trachycarpus excelsus (20 feet).
Sabal Palmetto (12 feet).
Erythea armata (15 feet).
Washingtonia filifera (20 feet).
Erythea edulis (15 feet).

Group V. Shrubs resistant to heat, drought, and neglect.
In some semi-arid sections of California, it is necessary to use plants that will grow more or

less success-
fully under conditions of severe heat, drought, and neglect. Plants in this list are especially useful in those situations where no attention can be given after the plant is once established.

Evergreen.

Casuarina in variety (10 to 25 feet).
Acacia in variety (5 to 20 feet).
* Atriplex Breweri (6 feet).
Pittosporum phillyraeoides (10 to 15 feet).
Olea europaea (10 to 15 feet).
Pittosporum crassifolium (10 to 15 feet).
Tristania conferta (10 to 20 feet).
Photinia arbutifolia (8 to 10 feet).
Spartium junceum (6 to 8 feet).
Rhamnus californica (8 to 10 feet).
Ceanothus in variety (6 to 10 feet).
Cytisus in variety (6 to 8 feet).
Hakea in variety (8 to 10 feet).
Ligustrum in variety (8 to 10 feet).
Callistemon in variety (4 to 8 feet).
Melaleucas in variety (6 to 10 feet).
Cistus in variety (2 to 4 feet).
Albizzia Iophantha (10 feet).
Parkinsonia aculeata (8 to 10 feet).
Nerium Oleander (8 to 10 feet).
Myoporum laetum (8 to 12 feet).
Raphiolepis umbellata (4 to 6 feet).
Carpenteria californica (6 to 8 feet).
Ceratonia Siliqua (8 to 12 feet).
Evonymus japonica (0 to 8 feet).
Arbutus Unedo (8 feet).
Cassia tomentosa (8 feet).
Cassia artemisioides (4 feet).
Leptospermum in variety (6 to 10 feet).
* Agonis flexuosa (8 to 10 feet).
* Calothamnus quadrifidus (5 feet).
Elaeagnus pungens (6 feet).
Romneya Coulteri (6 feet).
* Buddleia in variety (6 to 8 feet).
Coronilla glauca (4 to 6 feet).
Dodonaea cuneata (6 to 8 feet).
Dodonaea viscosa (8 feet).
* Echium in variety (4 to 6 feet).
Phillyrea latifolia (10 feet).
Metrosideros tomentosa (6 to 12 feet).
* Malvaviscus mollis (6 feet).
Prunus ilicifolia var. integrifolia (10 to 12 feet).
Prunus caroliniana (10 to 12 feet).
Pyracantha crenulata (G to 8 feet).

Deciduous.

Tamarix parviflora (6 to 8 feet).
Tamarix hispida var. aestivalis (6 to 8 feet).
Chaenomeles japonica (6 feet).
Punica Granatum (6 feet).
Berberis vulgaris var. atropurpurea (6 to 8 feet).
Evonymus europaea (8 feet).
Prunus cerasifera var. atropurpurea (10 to 12 feet).

Group VI. Shrubs which are especially free-flowering.

Many species of ornamental shrubs are particularly free-flowering in California, while others possess several flowering periods throughout the year. Because of their tendency to bloom in the fall and winter seasons, they are especially useful in the more intensively developed
gardens where all-the-year-round effects are desired.
Evergreen.
Choisya ternata (6 feet).
* Cestrum elegans (6 feet).
Veronica in variety (2 to 6 feet).
Polygala Dalmaisiana (3 to 5 feet).
* Grevillea Thelemanniana (4 feet).
* Rhodorhiza florida (6 feet).
* Lantana in variety (4 to 6 feet).
* Fuchsia in variety (6 feet).
Sollya heterophylla (3 feet).
Berberis Darwinii (6 to 8 feet).
Escallonia rubra (4 to 6 feet).
* Streptosolen Jamesonii (3 to 6 feet).
Spartium junceum (6 to 8 feet).
Abelia grandiflora (6 feet).
+ Heterocentron roseum (1 foot).
* Genista monosperma (6 to 8 feet).
Pimelea ferruginea (4 to 6 feet).
+ Bouvardia Humboldtii (5 feet).
Cistua ladaniferus var. maculatus (2 to 4 feet).
Statice in variety (1 foot).
* Anthyllia Barba-Jovis (4 to 6 feet).
* Reinwardtia trigyna (3 feet).
* Iochroma in variety (8 to 10feet).
Escallonia pulverulenta (8 to 10 feet)
* Jacobinia pauciflora (2 feet).
+ Daedalacanthus nervosus (2 feet).
Cytisus racemosus (2 to 3 feet).
* Duranta Plumieri (6 to 8 feet).
Coronilla glauca (4 to 6 feet).
Cassia artemisioides (4 feet}.
* Malvaviscus mollis (6 feet).
+ Cuphea in variety (2 feet).
* Philsdelphus mexicanus (5 feet).
* Tibouchina splendens (5 feet).
Eacallonia rosea (8 feet).
* Cestrum aurantiacum (6 to 8 feet).
Erica mediterranea (3 feet).
Erica melanthera (3 feet).
* Plumbago capensis (4 feet).
* Trachelospermum jasminoides (3 feet).
Cassia tomentosa (8 feet).
* Eugenia myrtifolia (10 to 15 feet).
Hibiscus in variety (8 to 10 feet).
* Tecoma capensis (8 feet).
* Swainsona galegifolia var. albiflora (6 feet).
* Calothamnus quadrifidus (5 feet).

Group VII. Shrubs bearing ornamental fruits and berries.
The berried and fruit-bearing ornamental trees and shrubs form one of the most interesting classes of decorative plants. Not only do they produce a flower display throughout the spring and summer months but also add flashes of color for long periods in the fall and winter by their clusters of bright berries or fruits. Only those kinds bearing persistent fruit and of a color contrasting well with green foliage are acceptable in California. Such deciduous berried shrubs as have proved themselves adaptable are included in the list.

Those producing berried effects.

Pyracantha coccinea (6 to 8 feet).
Pyracantha crenulata (6 feet).
Pyracantha angustifolia (6 feet).
Cotoneaster Franchetii (4 to ? feet).
Cotoneaeter Dielsiana (4 to 6 feet).
Cotoneaster horizontalis (2 to 3 feet).
Cotoneaster pannosa (6 to 8 feet).
Cotonraster acuminata (6 to 8 feet).
Cotoneaster buxifolia (2 to 3 feet).
Cotoneaster microphylla (2 to 3 feet).
Cotoneaster frigida (8 to 10 feet).
Photinia arbutifolia (8 to 10 feet).
* Myrtus Ugni (4 feet).
* Duranta Plumieri (6 to 8 feet).
Berberís Darwinii (6 to 8 feet).
Ilex Aquifolium (6 to 10 feet).
* Cestrum elegans (6 feet).
* Cestrum aurantiacum (6 to 8 feet).
* Pittosporum rhombifolium (10 to 15 feet).
* Pittosporum viridiflorum (10 feet).
Arbutus Menziesii (10 to 20 feet).
Lycium chínense (6 feet).
Rhamnus californica (8 to 10 feet).
Rhamnus crocea (4 feet).
Nandina domestica (6 feet).

Deciduous.

Elaeagnus umbellata (10 feet).
Symphoricarpos albus (3 leet).
Crataegus cordata (10 feet).
Berberís Thunbergii (3 feet).
Sorbus Aucuparia (10 to 15 feet).
Symphoricarpos vulgaris (3 feet),
Sambucus racemosa (10 feet).

Those producing fruit effects.

Arbutus Unedo (8 feet).
* Eugenia myrtifolia (10 to 15 feet)
+ Eugenia uniflora (6 to 8 feet).
Cornus capitata (10 feet).
* Psdium in variety (4 to 8 feet).
Aucuba japonica (4 feet).
Eriobotrya japonica (10 to 12 feet).
Feijoa Sellowiana (8 feet).

Deciduous.

Evonymus europaea (6 to 8 feet).
Eyonymus alata (6 to 8 feet).
Ribes speciosum (4 feet).
Punica Granatum (6 feet).
Diospyros in variety (6 to 8 feet).
Rosa rugosa (3 feet).
Chaenomeles japonica (6 feet).
Pyrus floribunda (10 to 12 feet)

Group VIII. Shrubs for hedges (California).
Many shrubs of a compact habit may be used as hedge-plants. There is, however, a fairly well-established group of desirable species that lend themselves more easily to training of this kind. Those listed below are used extensively for hedges and have been found to adapt themselves readily to the severe system of trimming and to produce the dense and compact form desired.
Low edgings or boxings (6 to 18 inches).
Berberis Darwinii.
Buxus sempervirens var. suffruticosa.
* Eugenia myrtifolia.
Lonicera nítida.
Veronica buxifolia.
Myrtus communis var. microphylla.
Myrtus Ugni.
Evonymus japonica var. microphylla.
Veronica Traversii.
Veronica carnea.
Cotoneaster microphylla.
Erica mediterranea.
* Diosma ericoides.
* Jacobinia pauciflora.
Cistus ladaniferus var. maculatus.
Small hedges (2 to 6 feet).
Berberis Darwinii.
* Eugenia myrtifolia.
Eugenia apiculata.
Buxus sempervirens.
Taxus baccata.
Lonicera nitida.
Osmanthus Aquifolium var. myrtifolius.
Prunus ilicifolia.
Pittosporum tenuifolium.
Pittosporum eugenioides.
Myrtus communis.
Escallonia rubra.
* Atriplex Breweri.
* Grevillea Thelemanniana.
Ligustrum sinense.
Ligustrum ovalifolium.
Choisya ternata.
Pyracantha crenulata.
* Aberia caffra.
Erica in variety.
Elaeagnus pungens.
Pyracantha angustifolia.
Veronica decussata.
Veronica imperialis.
Veronica elhptica.
Pimelea ferruginea.
Viburnum Tinus var. strictum.
Leptospermum laevigatum.
Evonymus japonica.
Acacia longifolia.
Acacia armata.
Ceanothus spinosus.
* Psidium Cattleianum.
* Lantana , dwarf hybrids.
High hedges (6 to 12 feet).
Pittosporum tenuifolium.
Pittosporum eugonioides.
* Pittosporum undulatum.
Pittosporum crassifolium.
Prunus ilicifolia var. integrifolia.
Ligustrum ovalifolium.
Ligustrum japonicum.
Prunus carolíniana.
Escallonia pulverulenta.
Cupressus macrocarpa.
Hakea suaveolens.
Hakea saligna.
Acacia longifolia.
Acacia melanoxylon.
Acacia retinodes.
Acacia verticillata.
Pyracantha coccinea.
Spartium junceum.

Group IX. Shrubs for ground-covers (California).

There are often banks and slopes where a lawn would be too expensive to maintain and unless covered with green foliage would remain unsightly. Other situations, especially under and between trees and large shrubs, would be materially improved if the ground-surface were covered with woody vines and trailing shrubs. It will be necessary to prune out the leader or upright stem of many of these shrubs to encourage their spreading or horizontal growth.
Juniperus chinensís var. procumbens (3 feet).
Juniperus Sabina var. tamariscifolia (3 feet).
Jasminum primulinum (6 feet).
Sollya heterophylla (3 feet)
Hypericum calycinum (1 foot),
Hypericum Moserianum (3 feet).
*Philadelphus mexicanus (5 feet).
Trachelospermum jasminoides (3 feet).
Cuphea micropetala (3 feet).
*Cuphea ignea (5 feet).
Clianthus puniceus (3 to 6 feet).
*Streptosolen Jamesonii (3 to ? feet).
*Plumbago capensis (4 feet).
Myrtus communis (3 to 5 feet).
Cotoneaster microphylla (2 to 3 feet).
Cotoneaster horizontalis (2 to 3 feet).
*Coprosma Baueri (6 feet).
Evonymus radicans (2 feet).
Fuchsia Riccartonii (6 feet).
Leptospermum laevigatum (6 to 10 feet).
*Tecoma capensis (8 feet).
*Reinwardtia trigyna (4 feet).
*Capparia spinosa (3 feet).
*Swainsona galegifolia var. albiflora (6 feet).
Teucrium fruticans (6 feet).
Coronilla glauca (4 to 6 feet).
Melaleuca decussata (5 feet).
Cistus ladaniferus var. maculatus (2 to 4 feet).
Evonymus japonica var. viridi-variegata (4 feet).
Lantana Sellowiana (4 feet).
*Lantana Camara (4 to 6 feet).
Chorizema ilicifolium (5 feet).
*Melianthus major (4 feet).
*Buddleia madagascariensis (6 to 10 feet).
Jasminum humile (6 feet).
*Solanum Rantonnetii (6 feet).
Artemisia arborescens (5 feet).
Pentstemon cordifolius (5 feet).
*Heliotropium in variety (3 feet).
Pittosporum heterophyllum (3 feet).
*Fuchsia fulgens (5 feet).
*Fuchsia corymbiflora (6 feet).

Group X. Shrubs for quick effects (California).
Many shrubs are of rapid growth and if given heat and moisture will produce very quick effects. They are. therefore, especially suitable for screens, barriers, and mature effects in recently created gardens.
Myoporum laetum (8 to 12 feet).
Albizzia lophantha (10 feet).
Leptospermum laevigatum (6 to 10 feet).
Acacia in variety (6 to 20 feet).
Melaleuca in variety Í6 to 10 feet).
Spartium junceum (6 to 8 feet).
Casuarina in variety (10 to 25 feet).
Tithonia diversifolia (8 to 10 feet).
*Wigandia caracasana (8 to 10 feet).
*Lantana in variety (4 to 6 feet).
Cytisus in variety (6 to 8 feet).
*Iochroma in variety (8 to 10 feet).
*Cassia in variety (4 to 10 feet).
Buddleia in variety (6 to 8 feet).
*Cestrum in variety (6 to 8 feet).
*Plumbago capensis (4 feet).
Solanum Warscewiczii (8 feet).
Dodonaea cuneata (6 to 8 feet).
Bocconia frutescens (8 feet).
*Pittosporum undulatum (10 to 15 feet).
Pittosporum eugenioides (10 to 15 feet).
Pittosporum crassifolium (10 to 15 feet).
*Coprosma Baueri (0 feet).
Veronica in variety (2 to 6 feet).
*Sparmannia africana (8 feet).
Coronilla glauca (4 to 6 feet).
*Anthyllia Barba-Jovis (4 to 6 feet).
*Agonis flexuosa (8 to 10 feet).
Fataia japonica (6 feet).
Ligustrum ovalifolium (6 to 8 feet).
Escallonia in variety (6 to 10 feet).
Pimelea ferruginca (4 to 6 feet).
Cuphea micropetals (2 feet).
*Streptosolen Jamesonii (3 to 6 feet).
*Grevillea Thelemanniana (4 feet).
*Atriplex Breweri (6 feet).
*Melianthus major (4 feet).
Parkinsonia aculeata (8 to 10 feet).
Ceanothus arborea (8 feet).
Muehlenbeckia platyclada (6 feet).
Clerodendron in variety (8 feet).
*Abutilon in variety (8 feet).
Carica quercifolta (6 to 8 feet).
Agonis flexuosa, Schau. A tall shrub or tree from Austral.: lvs. lanceolate, smooth, dark green, the margins tinged with purple: fl.-heads white, axillary, surrounded by broad bracts; stamens long, numerous, white.Group XI Especially choice and neat shrubs.
Those shrubs which are free-flowering, compact, and possess interesting and well-arranged foliage, are much in demand for the more intensively developed parts of a garden. They are particularly suitable for use on small home grounds; in formal gardens, and around the base-line of buildings.

Erica in variety (4 feet).
Dioema ericoides (3 feet).
*Eugenia myrtifolia (10 to 15 feet).
Choisya ternata (6 feet).
Daphne odora (3 feet).
*Grevillea Thelemanniana (4 feet).
Leptospermum scoparium var. Nichollii (4 to 6 feet).
Lonicera nitida (4 to ? feet).
Berberís Darwinii (6 to 8 feet).
Abelia grandiflora (6 feet).
Pimelea ferruginea (4 to 6 feet).
*Myrtus Ugni (4 feet).
Templetonia retusa (3 feet).
Asystasia bella (3 feet).
Sollya heterophylla (3 feet).
*Trachelospermum jasminoides (3 feet).
*Philadelphus mexicanus (5 feet).
Michelia fuscata (6 feet).
Heterocentron roseum (1 foot).
Daedalacanthus nervosus (2 feet).
Cassia artemisioides (4 feet).
Eugenia spiculata (8 feet).
Myrtus communis var. microphylla (2 to 3 feet).
*Coprosma Baueri (6 feet).
*Cneorum tricoecon (3 feet).
Cotoncaster horizontalis (2 to 3 feet).
Cotoneaster Franchetii (4 to 6 feet).
Cotoneaster microphylla (2 to 3 feet).
Ligustrum coriaceum (3 to 6 foet).
Ligustrum sinense (6 feet).
*Genista monosperma (6 to 8 feet).
Rhodorhiza florida (0 feet).
Aucuba japonica (4 feet).
Azara microphylla (8 feet).
Buxus in variety (2 to 8 feet).
Camellia japonica (8 feet).
Cytisus racemosus (2 to 3 feet).
Evonymus japonica var. aureo-marginata (6 to 8 feet).
Evonymus japonica var. viridi-variegata (4 feet).
Mahonia japonica (4 feet).
Melaleuca decussata (5 feet).
Nandina domestica (6 feet).
Osmanthus Aquifolium (4 feet).
Veronica in variety (2 to 6 feet).
*Carissa grandiflora (4 feet).
Hardenbergia monophylla Í5 feet).
Jasminum primulinum (6 feet).
Metrosideros lucida (6 feet).
*Tibouchina splendens (5 feet).
Salvia Seseei (6 feet).
*Fuchsia corymbiflora (6 feet).
*Fuchsia fulgens (4 feet).
*Fuchsia arborescens (6 feet).
*Duranta Plumieri var. alba (3 to 6 feet).

Cnearum tricoccon. Linn., the spurge olive, is a native of 8. Eu.: smooth, evergreen, 1 or 2 ft. high: lvs. narrow, entire, obtuse: fls. axillary; pedicels not adnate to the bracts. Cneorum is one of the Simarubaceae, or by recent authorities made the sole representative of
the family Cneoraceae.Group XII. Ornamental native shrubs.While the native shrubs of California are not, in many cases, so effective and attractive for landscape purposes as most of the exotic material used, there is a growing interest in their ornamental qualities. They may be employed extensively to give character to the extremely naturalistic home grounds and to the typically Californian garden. Only the more ornamental species in general cultivation are listed below.

Carpenteria californica (0 to 8 feet).
Ceanothus thyrsiflorus (8 feet).
Photinia arbutifolia (8 to 10 feet).
Lyonothamnus floribundus var. aeplenifolius (15 to 20 feet).
Prunus ilicifolia var. integrifolia (10 to 15 feet).
Arbutus Menziesii (10 to 20 feet).
Ceanothus arboreus (8 to 10 feet).
Ceanothus spinoeus (6 to 8 feet).
Parkinsonia aculeata (8 to 10 feet).
Garrya Fremontii (6 feet).
Romneya Coulteri (6 feet).
Ribee speciosum (4 feet).
Vaccinium ovatum (3 feet).
Mahonia Aquifolium (4 feet).
Rhamnus californica (8 to 10 feet).
Rhus integrifolia (6 feet).
Rhus ovata (6 to 8 feet).
Rhamnus crocea var. ilicifolia (4 feet).
Umbellularia californica (15 to 30 feet).
Cercocarpus parvifolius (8 feet).
*Gaultheria Shallon (2 feet).
Arctostaphylos in variety (6 feet).
Fremontia californica (8 feet).
Calycanthus occidentalis (6 feet).
Dendromecon rigidum (6 feet).
* Lavatera assurgentiflora (6 feet).
*Mimulus glutinosus (4 feet).

John Wm. Gregg.
R. T. Stevens.
Vines for California.
In countries where there is a maximum of sunlight, vines become a most important class of plant-material. The many vines used in California are roughly divided into classes according to the climatic divisions of the state. Tropical and semi-tropical evergreen vines find most favor in southern California, where gorgeous coloring and luxurious growth appear most in harmony with the landscape; while the half-hardy evergreens and the choicest deciduous vines are mostsuitable for use along the central California coast. On the other hand, the vine which loses its foliage in winter finds the greatest favor in the interior sections of the state, although such few evergreens as withstand several degrees of frost are often employed for decorative purposes. When very quick effects are wanted, the annual vine is often used.All vines except those clinging to rough surfaces need substantial support, while most vines require a certain amount of thinning and training. The tendency is to neglect the plant after it is once established and allow it to form thick unsightly masses of stems near the top of the support, thereby destroying such decorative beauty as the vine may possess. Vines should not be "headed back" or heavily pruned unless the plant is to be renovated, as a coarse rank growth is encouraged. If possible, choose strong stems as leaders and train in a fan-like manner so as finally to cover the desired area. Spring-flowering vines should be pruned soon after blooming, while summer- and fall-flowering vines may be thinned in the spring. The foliage of evergreen vines may be best reauced by careful selective thinning immediately after a blooming period. Always begin to train a vine as soon as possible; do not wait for it to begin to climb.
No climbing roses have been included in the following lists, as it is felt that they should be considered as a separate class of plant-material. Such vines as are not marked with D" or "A" are evergreen, while those without an "o" or "x" are hardy. D—deciduous; A-annual; o—not resistant to frost; x—resistant to 10° to 12° of frost.

1. Vines which cover objects and surfaces densely.
The vines in this list have a tendency to cover their supports entirely, making a dense screen and thereby destroying architectural lines.
D-—Actinidia chinensis. x—Pandorea australis.
D—Akebia quinata. o—Pandorea Brycei.
x—Buddleia madagascariensis. x—Pandorea jasminoidea.
D—Campeis chinensis. x—Pandorea jasminoides var.
D—Campeis radicans. alba.
Caraioapermum hirsutum. D—Parthenocissus quinque
D—Clematis montana. folia.
D—Clematis paniculata. D—Parthenocissus tricuspi
x—Dolichos Lignosus. data.
Ficua pumila. Passiflora caerulea.
Gelsemium sempervirens. Passiflora caerulea var. alba.
Hedera helix. O- Passiflora edulis.
Hedera helix var. chryso x—Passiflora manicata.
carpa, Passiflora mollissima.
A—Humulus japonious. x—Pelargonium peltatum.
D—Ipomoea Learii. D—Periploca graeca.
x—Jasminum gracillimum. x—Pithecoctenium muricatum.
x—Jasminum grandiflorum. x—Plumbago capensis.
x—.Jasminum officinale. x—Plumbago capensis var.
Kennedya rubicunda. alba.
Lantana Sellowiana. D—Pueraria hirsuta.
Lonicera japonica var. Hal x—Salpichroa rhomboides.
liana. D—Senecio mikanioides.
Lonicera Periclymenum o—Solandra guttata.
var. belgica. x—Serjania fuscifolia.
Melothria punctata. x—Steptosolen Jamesonii.
Muehlenbeckia complexa. x—Tecoma capensis.
A—Tropaeolum majus. D—Wisteria chinensis.
x—Vitis (Cissus) antarctica D—Wisteria multijuga.
x—Vitia (Cissua) capensis.

2. Vines producing light open tracery.

Vines to be ornamental should decorate and not entirely cover. Their chief purpose is to soften and partially break hard architectural lines. It is the contrast between foliage and background which produces decorative effect. Vines of this section are especially good for columns, walls, and frames.

o—Abrus precatorius. x—Hoya oarnoea.
D—Antigonon leptopus. x—Jasminum asoricum.
o—Ariatolochia triangularis. x—Jasminum nitidum.
x—Asparagua asparagoides. D—Jasminum nudiflorum.
x—Asparagus plumosus. x—Linaria Cymbalaria.
x—Aaparagua plumosus var. D—Mandevilla suaveolens.
comorensis. Maurandia Barclaians.
Bignonia Unguia-cati (B. x—Maurandia Lophospermum.
Tweediana). a—Momordica Balsamina.
D—Clematis Henryi. x—Pithecoctenium cynan
D—Clematis Jackmanii. choides.
D—Clematis montana var. x—Pithecoctenium muricatum.
rubena. x—Pyrostegia venuata.
x—Cobaea scandens. Solanum jasminoidea.
x—Dioclea glycinoides. x—Solanum Seaforthianum.
o—Dipladenia hybrids. Sollya heterophylla.
a—Eccremocarpus acaber. o—Stigmaphyllon ciliatum.
x—Hardenbergia Comptoni o—Stigmaphyllon littorale.
ana. o—Thunbergia grandiflora.
Hedera helix. x—Tracheloapermum jasmin
o—Hidalgoa Wercklei. oides.

3. Vines as ground-covers on slopes, embankments, and under trees.
Vines require little care, hold the soil and make a permanent effect in those situations where the soil is too poor or too shady to maintain a satisfactory lawn.

Bignonia Unguis-cati. Mesembryanthemum
x—Duchesnea indica. cordifolium.
Fragaria californica. Mesembryanthemum
Fragaria chiloensia. roseum.
Hedera helix* Muehlenbeckia chilensis.
a—Humulus japonicus. Muehlenbeckia complex
x—Jaaminum primulinum. x—Pelargonium peltatum.
x—Lantana Camara. D—Senecio mikanioides.
Lantana Sellowiana. Sollya heterophylla.
Lippia caneacens. A—Tropraeolum majus.
Lonicera japonica var. Hal- Vinca major.
liana, Vinca minor,
x—Lotus Bertholetii. x—Vitis (Cissus) capensis.

4. Vines for stone, plaster, and brick surfaces.
Because of their various ways of clinging to rough surfaces, these vines need no support. They should not be grown on wood surfaces which are to be painted.

D—Bignonia capreolata. Hedera helix.
Bignonia Unguiscati (B. Hedera helix var. chry
Tweediana). socarpa.
x—Cisaua striata. D—Parthenocissus quinque
x—Clytostoma purpureum. folia.
D—Decumaria barbara. D—Parthenocissus quinque
Evonymus radicana. folia var. Engelmannii.
Evonymus radicana var. D—Parthenocissus tricuspi
roseo-marginata. data.
Ficus pumila. x—Phaedranthus buccina
Ficus pumila var. minima. torius.

5. Vines for quick effects.
Useful to obtain mature effects in gardens. Rapid- growing deciduous vines are especially desirable for porches, pergolas, and arbors located in the large interior valleys.

D—Actinidia chinensis. D—Ipomosa setosa.
D—Ariatolochia macrophylla x—Jaaminum primulinum.
(A. Sipho). x—Lantana Camara.
Bignonia Unguis-cati (B. Lathyrus aplendena.
Tweediana). Lonicera japonica var.
D—Bousaingaultia basselloides. Halliana.
x—Buddleia madagaacariensia. Maurandia Barclaiana.
D—Campaia radicana. Molothria punctata.
D—Clematia montana. x—Pandorea auatralia.
D—Clematia paniculata. o—Pandorea Brycei.
Cobnea scandena. Passiflora cnrulea.
x—Dolichoa Ugnoaua. Pay.^iflora ca-ruloa var.
x—Dolichoa lignoaus var. alba. alba.
A—Humulua Japonicua. o—Passiflora edulia.
D—Humulua lupulua. x—Passiflora manicata.
D—Ipomcca Learii. x—Paasiflora mollissima.

o—Passiflora racemosa (P. princeps).
x—Passiflora tubiflora.
x—Pelargonium peltatum.
x—Phaedranthus buccinatorius.
D—Phaseolus Caracalla.
x—Philadelphus mexicanus.
D—Pueraria hirsuta.
x—Salpichroa rhomboidea.
D—Sechium edule.
D—Senecio mikanioides.
Solanum jasminoides.
D—Solanum Wendlandii.
o—Solandra guttata.
x—Tecoma capensis.
D—Thunbergia alata.
o—Thunbergia coccinea.
A—Tropaeolum majus.

6. Free-flowering vines for California.

Many vines produce only foliage effects or bloom but once a year. The vines in this list bear flowers more or less continuously. They are especially suitable for arbors and trellises in the flower-garden.

o—Allamanda cathartics var. Lonicera sempervirens.
Hendersonii. D-Mandevillasuaveolens.
D—Antigonon leptopus. Manettia bicolor.
o—Beaumontia grandiflora. x—Pandorea jasminoides.
x—Bougainvillea brasiliensia. x—Pandorea jasminoides var. alba,
x—Bougainvillea glabra. x—Passiflora militaris.
x—Bougainvillea spectabilis o—Passiflora racemosa(P. princeps).
var. lateritia. x—Pelargonium peltatum.
Cardiospermum hirsutum. x—Phaedranthus buccina-torius.
x—Chorisema ilicifolium. D—Phaseolus Caracalla.
A—Clitoria Ternatea. x—Pithecoctenium murica-tum.
x—Clytostoma callistegioides. x—Plumbago capensis,
Cobaea scandens. x—Pyrostegia venusta.
x-Dolichos lignosus o—Schubertia grandiflora.
x—Dolichos lignosus.var. alba. o—Solandra grandiflora.
x—Hardenbergia Comptoniana Solanum jasminoides.
x-Jasminum asoricum. x—Solanum Seaforthianum.
x—Jasminum floribundum. D—Solanum Wendlandii.
x—Jasminum gracillimum. x—Sollya heterophylla.
x—Jasminum grandiflorum. o—Stephanotis floribunda.
x—Jasminum, Maid of Orleans, x—Stigmaphyllon ciliatum.
o—Jasminum nitidum. x—Swainsona galegifolia var.
x—Jasminum simplicifolium, albiflora.
Jasminum Sambac, Grand Duke. x—Tecoma capenais.
x—Lantana Camara. o—Thunbergia grandiflora.
Lantana Sellowiana. x—Trachelospermum jasminoides.
Lathyrus latifolius var. albus D—Tropaeolum majus.
Lathyrus splendens.
Lonicera japonica var. Halliana.

7. Vines somewhat resistant to shade.

Good for courts, north sides of buildings, under trees and on shady slopes.

x—Asparagus asparagoides. D—Parthenocissus quinque-folia.
x—Asparagus plumosus. D—Parthenocissus tricuspi-data.
x—Chorisema ilicifolium. o—Quisqualis indica.
x—Clianthus puniceus. D—Senecio mikanioides.
x—Clytostoma callistegioides. x—Solanum Seaforthianum.
Ficus pumila, Sollya heterophylla.
Ficus pumila var. minima. o—Stephanotis floribunda.
Hedera colchica (H. Raeg- neriana).o—Thunbergia laurifolia.
Hedera helix. x—Tracheloapermum jasminoidea.
x—Hoya carnosa. Tradescantia virginiana.
x—Jasminum asoricum. Vinca major,
x—Jasminum gracillimum. Vinca minor.
x—Jasminum primulinum. x—Vitis (Cissus) antarctica.
x—Linaria Cymbalaria. x—Vitis (Cissus) capensis.
lippa canescens. x—Vitis (Cissus) rhombifolia.
D—Micromeria Chamissonis.
x—Pandorea australis.

8. Vines somewhat resistant to drought.

Vines are largely natives of cool moist forest floors where the soil is deep and loose, but the

following will endure a certain amount of drought and hard clay soils.

Bignonia Unguis-cati (B.Tweediana). Lonicera Periclymenum
x—Bougainvilleas. var. belgica.
x—Buddleia madagascariensis. Mesembryanthemum roseum.
x—Dioclea glycinoides. Muehlenbeckia complexa.
x—Dolichoe lignosus. x—Pandorea auatralia.
Evonymus radicans. Pandorea jasminoides.
Ficus pumila. x-Passiflora manicata.
Hedera helix. x-Passiflora mollissima.
x—Jasminum primulinum. x—Pelargonium peltatum.
x—Lantana Camara. D—Periploca graeca.
x—Lantana Sellowiana. x—Plumbago capensis.
Lathyrus latifolius. x—Salpichroa rhomboidea.
Lathyrus splendens. D—Senecio mikanioides.
Lippia canescens. x—Serjania fuscifolia.
Lonicera japonica var. Solanum jasminoidea.
Halliana, Sollya heterophylla.
x—StreptoSolen Jamesonii. Vinca major.
x—Tecoma capensis. Vinca major, variegated.
D—Tropaeolum majus. Vinca minor.

9. Vines for pergolas and arbors.
For this purpose vines should not be allowed to make too heavy top growth and they should be so
rained that a certain amount of their foliage is pendent.
D—Antigonon leptopus. Lonicera japonica var. Hal-liana.
D—Aristolochia macrophylla D—Mandevilla suaveolena.
(A. Sipho). Muehlenbeckia complexa.
o—Aristolochia elegans. x—Pandorea jasminoides.
Bignonia Unguis-cati (B.Tweediana). x—Pandorea jasminoides var.alba.
x—Bougainvillea brasiliensis. o—Pandorea Brycei.
o—Beaumontia grandiflora. D—Periploca graeca (Silk Vine),
D—Clematis montana. x—Phaedranthus buccinato-rius.
D—Clematis paniculata. x—Philadelphus mexicanus.
x—Clytostoma purpureum. x—Pithecoctenium cynan-choides.
x—Dioclea glycinoides. x—Pithecoctenium muricatum.
Gelsemium sempervirens. o—Solandra guttata.
x—Hardenbergia Comptoniana. Solanum jasminoides.
Hedera colchica (H. Raeg- neriana). x—Solanum Seaforthianum.
Hedera helix. D—Solanum Wendlandii.
Hedera helix var. chry- socarpa. x—Stauntonia hexaphylla.
o—Hidalgoa Wercklei. o—Stephanotis floribunda.
A—Humulus japonicus. o—Stigmaphyllon ciliatum.
x—Jasminum asoricum. x—Tecoma capensis.
x—Jasminum floribundum. o—Thunbergia grandiflora.
x—Jasminum grandiflorum. x—Vitis (Cissus) capensis.
x—Jasminum nitidum. x—Vitis Romanetii.
x—Jasminum officinale. D—Wisteria chinensis.
x—Jasminum primulinum. D—Wisteria multijuga
x—Jasminum rigidum (J. li-gustrifolium) D-Wisteria multijuga var.alba.
x—Lonicera Hildebrandiana.

10. Foliage vines for California.

Many vines are especially ornamental because of their foliage effects. Those with smooth bright
green closely arranged leaves are most desirable.
D—Actinidia chinensis. x—Pandorea jasminoides.
D—Ampelopsis arborea. o—Passiflora edulis.
D—Aristolochia macrophylla o—Passiflora laurifolia.
(A. Sipho). o—Passiflora ligularia.
x—Asparagus asparagoidea. x—Phaedranthus buccina-torius.
x—Ciaaus striata. D—Pueraria hirauts.
x—Clytostoma callistegioides. D—Senecio mikanioides.
Cobaea scandcns. x—Serjania fuscifolia.
x—Dolichos lignosus. x—Solanum Seaforthianum.
Evonymus radicans. D—Solanum Wendlandii.
Ficus pumila. x—Stauntonia hexaphylla.
Gelsemium sempervirens. o—Thunbergia grandiflora.
A—Humulus japonicus. x—Vitis (Cissus) antarctica.
x—Jasminum azoricum x—Vitis (Cissus) capensis.
x—Jasminum gracillimum. x—Vitis (Cissus) hypoglauca.
x—Jasminum rigidum (J. ligus- x—Vitis (Cissus) rhombifolia.
trifolium).
x—Pandorea australis.

Millettia mega-sperma, Benth., the "evergreen wisteria" from Austral.is a promising plant in
California: woody climber:lfts.7-13, obovate or obovate-oblong: fls. purple, in racemes 4—6 in.
long which comprise a terminal panicle.
John Wm Gregg.
R. T. Stevens.
Katherine D. Jones.

{{SCH}}
}}

==Cultivation==
{{edit-cult}}

===Propagation===
{{edit-prop}}

===Pests and diseases===
{{edit-pests}}

==Species==


==Gallery==
{{photo-sources}}

<gallery>
Image:Upload.png| photo 1
Image:Upload.png| photo 2
Image:Upload.png| photo 3
</gallery>

==References==
*[[Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture]], by L. H. Bailey, MacMillan Co., 1963




==External links==
*{{wplink}}

{{stub}}
[[Category:Categorize]]

Phalaenopsis rosea

2009-07-08T16:55:05Z

125.99.85.99: New page: __NOTOC__{{Plantbox | name = ''LATINNAME''  | common_names =  | growth_habi...

__NOTOC__{{Plantbox
| name = ''LATINNAME'' 
| common_names = 
| growth_habit = ? 
| high = ? 
| wide = 
| origin = ? 
| poisonous = 
| lifespan = 
| exposure = ? 
| water = ? 
| features = 
| hardiness = 
| bloom = 
| usda_zones = ? 
| sunset_zones = 
| color = IndianRed
| image = Upload.png 
| image_width = 240px 
| image_caption = 
| regnum = Plantae 
| divisio = 
| classis = 
| ordo = 
| familia = 
| genus =
| species =
| subspecies =
| cultivar =
}}
{{Inc|

Phalaenopsis rosea, Lindl. Lvs. oblong, dark green, obliquely retuse: scape about a foot long, nodding, dark purple, bearing 12-14 fls.; sepals and petals ovate, obtuse, white, tinged with pink in the center; labellum rose- colored, scarcely longer than the sepals; lateral lobes small, lunate, middle lobe ovate. Philippines. B.M. 5212. F.S. 16:1645. G.C. 1848:671. J.F.3:283.

{{SCH}}
}}

==Cultivation==
{{edit-cult}}

===Propagation===
{{edit-prop}}

===Pests and diseases===
{{edit-pests}}

==Species==


==Gallery==
{{photo-sources}}

<gallery>
Image:Upload.png| photo 1
Image:Upload.png| photo 2
Image:Upload.png| photo 3
</gallery>

==References==
*[[Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture]], by L. H. Bailey, MacMillan Co., 1963




==External links==
*{{wplink}}

{{stub}}
[[Category:Categorize]]

Phalaenopsis Parishii

2009-07-08T16:53:41Z

__NOTOC__{{Plantbox
| name = ''LATINNAME'' 
| common_names = 
| growth_habit = ? 
| high = ? 
| wide = 
| origin = ? 
| poisonous = 
| lifespan = 
| exposure = ? 
| water = ? 
| features = 
| hardiness = 
| bloom = 
| usda_zones = ? 
| sunset_zones = 
| color = IndianRed
| image = Upload.png 
| image_width = 240px 
| image_caption = 
| regnum = Plantae 
| divisio = 
| classis = 
| ordo = 
| familia = 
| genus =
| species =
| subspecies =
| cultivar =
}}
{{Inc|

Phalaenopsis Parishii, Reichb. f. Dwarf: lvs. oblong-lanceolate, acute, 2-4 in. long: fls. in 6-10-fld. racemes scarcely longer than the lvs., crowded; dorsal sepals oblong, lateral broadly ovate, white; petals obovate- spatulate, white; lateral lobes of the labellum small, horn-like, yellow, with purple spots, middle lobe broadly triangular, red-purple, often white on the disk; crest semi-lunar, broken up into subulate filaments in front; the disk has a peculiar appendage ending in 4 long subulate filaments. Burma and Moulmein. B.M. 5815.
{{SCH}}
}}

==Cultivation==
{{edit-cult}}

===Propagation===
{{edit-prop}}

===Pests and diseases===
{{edit-pests}}

==Species==


==Gallery==
{{photo-sources}}

<gallery>
Image:Upload.png| photo 1
Image:Upload.png| photo 2
Image:Upload.png| photo 3
</gallery>

==References==
*[[Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture]], by L. H. Bailey, MacMillan Co., 1963




==External links==
*{{wplink}}

{{stub}}
[[Category:Categorize]]

Phalaenopsis Lueddemanniana

2009-07-08T16:52:35Z

__NOTOC__{{Plantbox
| name = ''LATINNAME'' 
| common_names = 
| growth_habit = ? 
| high = ? 
| wide = 
| origin = ? 
| poisonous = 
| lifespan = 
| exposure = ? 
| water = ? 
| features = 
| hardiness = 
| bloom = 
| usda_zones = ? 
| sunset_zones = 
| color = IndianRed
| image = Upload.png 
| image_width = 240px 
| image_caption = 
| regnum = Plantae 
| divisio = 
| classis = 
| ordo = 
| familia = 
| genus =
| species =
| subspecies =
| cultivar =
}}
{{Inc|

Phalaenopsis Lueddemanniana, Reichb. f. A small plant, with thick, oblong fleshy lvs. 6-8 in. long: infl. about as long as the lvs., with few handsome fls. near the top; fls. 2-3 in. across; sepals and petals oblong-acute, white, marked with transverse bars, those at the base being amethyst, while the upper ones are brown; labellum deep violet, with yellow blotches on the side lobes; middle lobe oblong; side lobes erect, ligulate, deeply 2-toothed. Feb., March. Philippines. B.M. 5523. F.S. 16:1636. R.H. 1872:390. F. 1865:257. G.C. III. 39:259. R.B. 26:169.—The old fl.-sts. of this plant produce young plants by which the species may be easily increased. Var. ochracea, Reichb. f. A form with yellowish fls. and ochre-colored bars. R.H. 1872:390.
{{SCH}}
}}

==Cultivation==
{{edit-cult}}

===Propagation===
{{edit-prop}}

===Pests and diseases===
{{edit-pests}}

==Species==


==Gallery==
{{photo-sources}}

<gallery>
Image:Upload.png| photo 1
Image:Upload.png| photo 2
Image:Upload.png| photo 3
</gallery>

==References==
*[[Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture]], by L. H. Bailey, MacMillan Co., 1963




==External links==
*{{wplink}}

{{stub}}
[[Category:Categorize]]

Phalaenopsis sumatrana

2009-07-08T16:51:04Z

__NOTOC__{{Plantbox
| name = ''LATINNAME'' 
| common_names = 
| growth_habit = ? 
| high = ? 
| wide = 
| origin = ? 
| poisonous = 
| lifespan = 
| exposure = ? 
| water = ? 
| features = 
| hardiness = 
| bloom = 
| usda_zones = ? 
| sunset_zones = 
| color = IndianRed
| image = Upload.png 
| image_width = 240px 
| image_caption = 
| regnum = Plantae 
| divisio = 
| classis = 
| ordo = 
| familia = 
| genus =
| species =
| subspecies =
| cultivar =
}}
{{Inc|

Phalaenopsis sumatrana, Korth. & Reichb. f. Lvs. pointed, about 6 in. long: infl. about as long as the lvs., 6-10-fld.; sepals oblong, pointed, 1 in. or more in length; petals more cuneate; all yellowish white barred, with bands of reddish brown; labellum short, clawed; lateral lobes erect, meeting and each having a short curved tooth pointing backward; middle lobe oblong, fleshy, white, streaked with violet, very hairy- in front. Sumatra and Borneo. B.M. 5527. F.S. 16:1644. G.C. 1865:507.
{{SCH}}
}}

==Cultivation==
{{edit-cult}}

===Propagation===
{{edit-prop}}

===Pests and diseases===
{{edit-pests}}

==Species==


==Gallery==
{{photo-sources}}

<gallery>
Image:Upload.png| photo 1
Image:Upload.png| photo 2
Image:Upload.png| photo 3
</gallery>

==References==
*[[Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture]], by L. H. Bailey, MacMillan Co., 1963




==External links==
*{{wplink}}

{{stub}}
[[Category:Categorize]]

Phalaenopsis speciosa

2009-07-08T16:49:14Z

__NOTOC__{{Plantbox
| name = ''LATINNAME'' 
| common_names = 
| growth_habit = ? 
| high = ? 
| wide = 
| origin = ? 
| poisonous = 
| lifespan = 
| exposure = ? 
| water = ? 
| features = 
| hardiness = 
| bloom = 
| usda_zones = ? 
| sunset_zones = 
| color = IndianRed
| image = Upload.png 
| image_width = 240px 
| image_caption = 
| regnum = Plantae 
| divisio = 
| classis = 
| ordo = 
| familia = 
| genus =
| species =
| subspecies =
| cultivar =
}}
{{Inc|

Phalaenopsis speciosa, Reichb. f. Lvs. oblong: fls. stellate, in racemes or panicles, white, blotched with rose- madder; sepals oblong; petals narrower; labellum with erect, linear, toothed, yellow side lobes, and a fleshy, purple and white middle lobe ending in a hairy cushion. Andaman Isls. (Bay of Bengal). G.C. II. 18:745; 26:277.
{{SCH}}
}}

==Cultivation==
{{edit-cult}}

===Propagation===
{{edit-prop}}

===Pests and diseases===
{{edit-pests}}

==Species==


==Gallery==
{{photo-sources}}

<gallery>
Image:Upload.png| photo 1
Image:Upload.png| photo 2
Image:Upload.png| photo 3
</gallery>

==References==
*[[Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture]], by L. H. Bailey, MacMillan Co., 1963




==External links==
*{{wplink}}

{{stub}}
[[Category:Categorize]]

Phalaenopsis Cornu-cervi

2009-07-08T16:46:10Z

__NOTOC__{{Plantbox
| name = ''LATINNAME'' 
| common_names = 
| growth_habit = ? 
| high = ? 
| wide = 
| origin = ? 
| poisonous = 
| lifespan = 
| exposure = ? 
| water = ? 
| features = 
| hardiness = 
| bloom = 
| usda_zones = ? 
| sunset_zones = 
| color = IndianRed
| image = Upload.png 
| image_width = 240px 
| image_caption = 
| regnum = Plantae 
| divisio = 
| classis = 
| ordo = 
| familia = 
| genus =
| species =
| subspecies =
| cultivar =
}}
{{Inc|

Phalaenopsis Cornu-cervi, Blume & Reichb. f. Lvs. about 9 in. long, leathery, oblong: fl.-st. about as long as the lvs., erect, clavate, bearing 6-12 fls.; fls. yellowish green, barred with reddish brown; sepals and petals fleshy, lanceolate, the latter smaller; labellum whitish, lateral lobes erect on the irregular, fleshy, excavated claw, middle lobe crescent-shaped, apiculate. Summer. Trop. Asia, Java, and Sumatra. B.M. 5570 (as Poly- chilos Cornu-cervi).
{{SCH}}
}}

==Cultivation==
{{edit-cult}}

===Propagation===
{{edit-prop}}

===Pests and diseases===
{{edit-pests}}

==Species==


==Gallery==
{{photo-sources}}

<gallery>
Image:Upload.png| photo 1
Image:Upload.png| photo 2
Image:Upload.png| photo 3
</gallery>

==References==
*[[Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture]], by L. H. Bailey, MacMillan Co., 1963




==External links==
*{{wplink}}

{{stub}}
[[Category:Categorize]]

Phalaenopsis violacea

2009-07-08T16:43:53Z

__NOTOC__{{Plantbox
| name = ''LATINNAME'' 
| common_names = 
| growth_habit = ? 
| high = ? 
| wide = 
| origin = ? 
| poisonous = 
| lifespan = 
| exposure = ? 
| water = ? 
| features = 
| hardiness = 
| bloom = 
| usda_zones = ? 
| sunset_zones = 
| color = IndianRed
| image = Upload.png 
| image_width = 240px 
| image_caption = 
| regnum = Plantae 
| divisio = 
| classis = 
| ordo = 
| familia = 
| genus =
| species =
| subspecies =
| cultivar =
}}
{{Inc|

Phalaenopsis violacea, Teijsm. & Binn. Lvs. oblong, 8-12 in. long, light shining green: fl.-stalks not longer than the lvs.: fls. few. 2 in. across; sepals and petals broadly lanceolate, yellowish white, changing to rose- violet toward the base; middle lobe of the labellum fleshy, deep purple, with a yellow callus; side lobes small, erect, purple and orange. May-Oct. Sumatra. F.M. 1879:342. G.C. II. 16:145. J.H. III. 42:537.— Plant of dwarf habit. The fls. remain on the plant a long time. Var. Schroederiana, Hort., has the basal half of the segms, bright purple, the color partly broken up into lines. I.H. 32:576. J.H. III. 51:195.
{{SCH}}
}}

==Cultivation==
{{edit-cult}}

===Propagation===
{{edit-prop}}

===Pests and diseases===
{{edit-pests}}

==Species==


==Gallery==
{{photo-sources}}

<gallery>
Image:Upload.png| photo 1
Image:Upload.png| photo 2
Image:Upload.png| photo 3
</gallery>

==References==
*[[Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture]], by L. H. Bailey, MacMillan Co., 1963




==External links==
*{{wplink}}

{{stub}}
[[Category:Categorize]]

Phalaenopsis amethystina

2009-07-08T16:42:25Z

__NOTOC__{{Plantbox
| name = ''LATINNAME'' 
| common_names = 
| growth_habit = ? 
| high = ? 
| wide = 
| origin = ? 
| poisonous = 
| lifespan = 
| exposure = ? 
| water = ? 
| features = 
| hardiness = 
| bloom = 
| usda_zones = ? 
| sunset_zones = 
| color = IndianRed
| image = Upload.png 
| image_width = 240px 
| image_caption = 
| regnum = Plantae 
| divisio = 
| classis = 
| ordo = 
| familia = 
| genus =
| species =
| subspecies =
| cultivar =
}}
{{Inc|

Phalaenopsis amethystina, Reichb. f. A small species with cuneate-oblong lvs.: fls. small, cream-colored with an amethyst labellum; sepals cuneate-oblong, obtuse; petals subequal or a little smaller; lateral lobes of the labellum cuneate; middle lobe obovate, notched. Malay. G.C. 1870:1731.
{{SCH}}
}}

==Cultivation==
{{edit-cult}}

===Propagation===
{{edit-prop}}

===Pests and diseases===
{{edit-pests}}

==Species==


==Gallery==
{{photo-sources}}

<gallery>
Image:Upload.png| photo 1
Image:Upload.png| photo 2
Image:Upload.png| photo 3
</gallery>

==References==
*[[Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture]], by L. H. Bailey, MacMillan Co., 1963




==External links==
*{{wplink}}

{{stub}}
[[Category:Categorize]]

Phalaenopsis Esmeralda

2009-07-08T16:40:03Z

__NOTOC__{{Plantbox
| name = ''LATINNAME'' 
| common_names = 
| growth_habit = ? 
| high = ? 
| wide = 
| origin = ? 
| poisonous = 
| lifespan = 
| exposure = ? 
| water = ? 
| features = 
| hardiness = 
| bloom = 
| usda_zones = ? 
| sunset_zones = 
| color = IndianRed
| image = Upload.png 
| image_width = 240px 
| image_caption = 
| regnum = Plantae 
| divisio = 
| classis = 
| ordo = 
| familia = 
| genus =
| species =
| subspecies =
| cultivar =
}}
{{Inc|

Phalaenopsis Esmeralda, Reichb. f. (P. antennifera, Reichb. f.). Lvs. oblong, acute, 4-8 in. long, gray-green with few dull purple spots: raceme erect, 6-10-fld., 6-18 in. high; fls. about 1 in. diam., dark or pale purple to white with red streaks; lateral sepals ovate, dorsal sepals obovate; petals obovate; labellum clawed, 3-lobed. lateral lobes ovate to rotund, erect, yellowish; middle lobe broad, obtuse, deep purple; claw with a slender appendage on each side. Cochin- China. B.M. 7196. F.M. 1879:358. R.H. 1877, p. 107.
{{SCH}}
}}

==Cultivation==
{{edit-cult}}

===Propagation===
{{edit-prop}}

===Pests and diseases===
{{edit-pests}}

==Species==


==Gallery==
{{photo-sources}}

<gallery>
Image:Upload.png| photo 1
Image:Upload.png| photo 2
Image:Upload.png| photo 3
</gallery>

==References==
*[[Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture]], by L. H. Bailey, MacMillan Co., 1963




==External links==
*{{wplink}}

{{stub}}
[[Category:Categorize]]

Phalaenopsis Lowii

2009-07-08T16:38:33Z

__NOTOC__{{Plantbox
| name = ''LATINNAME'' 
| common_names = 
| growth_habit = ? 
| high = ? 
| wide = 
| origin = ? 
| poisonous = 
| lifespan = 
| exposure = ? 
| water = ? 
| features = 
| hardiness = 
| bloom = 
| usda_zones = ? 
| sunset_zones = 
| color = IndianRed
| image = Upload.png 
| image_width = 240px 
| image_caption = 
| regnum = Plantae 
| divisio = 
| classis = 
| ordo = 
| familia = 
| genus =
| species =
| subspecies =
| cultivar =
}}
{{Inc|

Phalaenopsis Lowii, Reichb. f. Lvs. 4-5, oblong, fleshy, deep green,
, tinged with purple: panicle slender, 5-20-fld.,fls. 1 1/2 in.diam.,white flushed with purple; dorsal sepals broadly ovate, lateral sepals oblong; petals fan- shaped, with a rounded apex; labellum violet-purple, lateral lobes small, reflexed, middle lobe oblong; rostel- lum very long-beaked. Flowers during summer months. Moulmein (India). B.M. 5351. F.S. 18:1910. Gn. 9:312. G.C. III. 2:745.
{{SCH}}
}}

==Cultivation==
{{edit-cult}}

===Propagation===
{{edit-prop}}

===Pests and diseases===
{{edit-pests}}

==Species==


==Gallery==
{{photo-sources}}

<gallery>
Image:Upload.png| photo 1
Image:Upload.png| photo 2
Image:Upload.png| photo 3
</gallery>

==References==
*[[Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture]], by L. H. Bailey, MacMillan Co., 1963




==External links==
*{{wplink}}

{{stub}}
[[Category:Categorize]]

Phalaenopsis Schilleriana

2009-07-08T16:36:45Z

__NOTOC__{{Plantbox
| name = ''LATINNAME'' 
| common_names = 
| growth_habit = ? 
| high = ? 
| wide = 
| origin = ? 
| poisonous = 
| lifespan = 
| exposure = ? 
| water = ? 
| features = 
| hardiness = 
| bloom = 
| usda_zones = ? 
| sunset_zones = 
| color = IndianRed
| image = Upload.png 
| image_width = 240px 
| image_caption = 
| regnum = Plantae 
| divisio = 
| classis = 
| ordo = 
| familia = 
| genus =
| species =
| subspecies =
| cultivar =
}}
{{Inc|

Phalaenopsis Schilleriana, Reichb. f. Fig. 2889. Lvs. 6-18 in. long, oblong, dark green and mottled with gray above, purple below: panicle drooping, flat, as much as 3 ft. long and nearly as broad, bearing often over 100 fls. each 2 1/2-3 in. across; dorsal sepals obovate, acute, the lateral ones ovate, rich rose-lilac; petals large, rhomboid, colored like the sepals; labellum colored like the rest of the fl. or paler and often spotted with reddish brown and having a yellow callus; lateral lobes rounded- oblong, with 2 quadrangular calli between them, middle lobe oval, ending in 2 divergent horns. Jan.-March. Philippines. B.M. 5530. F.S. 15:1559. I.H. 10:348; 35:56; 43, p. 154. S.H. 2, p. 47. Gn. 3, p. 183; 22:118; 33, p. 615; 35, p. 363; 38, p. 157; 48, p. 484. G.C. II. 12:301; 111.3:529; 17:367; 37:152. F.M. 1877:257. R.H. 1886:396. A.G. 14:65. G.F. 4:390. A.F. 11: 1081. C.L.A.6:164. F.W. 1876:321. G.31:19. G.M. 48:151; 52:145. J.H. III. 42:451; 44:551; 52:133.
{{SCH}}
}}

==Cultivation==
{{edit-cult}}

===Propagation===
{{edit-prop}}

===Pests and diseases===
{{edit-pests}}

==Species==


==Gallery==
{{photo-sources}}

<gallery>
Image:Upload.png| photo 1
Image:Upload.png| photo 2
Image:Upload.png| photo 3
</gallery>

==References==
*[[Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture]], by L. H. Bailey, MacMillan Co., 1963




==External links==
*{{wplink}}

{{stub}}
[[Category:Categorize]]

Phalaenopsis Stuartiana

2009-07-08T16:35:33Z

__NOTOC__{{Plantbox
| name = ''LATINNAME'' 
| common_names = 
| growth_habit = ? 
| high = ? 
| wide = 
| origin = ? 
| poisonous = 
| lifespan = 
| exposure = ? 
| water = ? 
| features = 
| hardiness = 
| bloom = 
| usda_zones = ? 
| sunset_zones = 
| color = IndianRed
| image = Upload.png 
| image_width = 240px 
| image_caption = 
| regnum = Plantae 
| divisio = 
| classis = 
| ordo = 
| familia = 
| genus =
| species =
| subspecies =
| cultivar =
}}
{{Inc|

Phalaenopsis Stuartiana, Reichb. f. Lvs. elliptic-oblong, obtuse, about 1 ft. long, mottled when young, becoming dull green above and reddish below: panicle large, branched, drooping; fls. 2 in. across; sepals elliptic, obtuse, white or greenish white, the lateral ones speckled with red; petals rounded but obscurely quadrangular, white with few purple dots at base; labellum golden yellow or orange spotted with crimson, white at the tip, lateral lobes obliquely obovate, obtuse, with a pair of cuneate calli between them; middle lobe orbicular, ending in 2 white cirrhi. Jan., Feb. Philippines. B.M. 6622. I.H. 31:540. F. 1882:49. Gn. 22:118; 45, p. 426. G.C. II.

16:753; III.4:389. J.H. III. 34:157. F.E. 11:393. G. 30:195.—Very near P. Schilleriana, but very different in color. Var. punctatissima, Hort., has the sepals and petals profusely spotted with purplish red.
{{SCH}}
}}

==Cultivation==
{{edit-cult}}

===Propagation===
{{edit-prop}}

===Pests and diseases===
{{edit-pests}}

==Species==


==Gallery==
{{photo-sources}}

<gallery>
Image:Upload.png| photo 1
Image:Upload.png| photo 2
Image:Upload.png| photo 3
</gallery>

==References==
*[[Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture]], by L. H. Bailey, MacMillan Co., 1963




==External links==
*{{wplink}}

{{stub}}
[[Category:Categorize]]

Petasites officinalis

2009-07-06T15:25:11Z

__NOTOC__{{Plantbox
| name = ''LATINNAME'' 
| common_names = 
| growth_habit = ? 
| high = ? 
| wide = 
| origin = ? 
| poisonous = 
| lifespan = 
| exposure = ? 
| water = ? 
| features = 
| hardiness = 
| bloom = 
| usda_zones = ? 
| sunset_zones = 
| color = IndianRed
| image = Upload.png 
| image_width = 240px 
| image_caption = 
| regnum = Plantae 
| divisio = 
| classis = 
| ordo = 
| familia = 
| genus =
| species =
| subspecies =
| cultivar =
}}
{{Inc|

Petasites officinalis, Moench (P. vulgaris Desf.). Height 16 in.: lvs. 3 in. to 3 ft. diam., reniform or orbicularly cordate, white-hairy below: fls. purplish, appearing before the lsvs. in March-May, borne in cylindric panicles. Eu., N-Asia- Wilhelm Miller.
{{SCH}}
}}

==Cultivation==
{{edit-cult}}

===Propagation===
{{edit-prop}}

===Pests and diseases===
{{edit-pests}}

==Species==


==Gallery==
{{photo-sources}}

<gallery>
Image:Upload.png| photo 1
Image:Upload.png| photo 2
Image:Upload.png| photo 3
</gallery>

==References==
*[[Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture]], by L. H. Bailey, MacMillan Co., 1963




==External links==
*{{wplink}}

{{stub}}
[[Category:Categorize]]